Sales of New Zealand wine have increased in the US – “a bright spot in an otherwise declining import sector”, the New Zealand Winegrowers industry body says.
The increase, for 2024, marks the sixteenth year in a row that retail sales of New Zealand wines within the US have gone up, the new report from alcohol sales analysts Impact Databank. And it comes on the heels of threats from US president Donald Trump to impose a 200 percent tariff on alcohol imported from European Union countries, amid unfolding international trade tensions.
New Zealand Winegrowers director Fabian Yukich told Morning Report it was promising news, amidst otherwise challenging conditions.
“That publication goes out to a lot of people who make decisions about buying New Zealand wine, so it’s pretty important … that we’re getting all this good news from the US right now, where things are otherwise a bit gloomy in other parts of the industry … people see it and they say, well we better order some more New Zealand wine,” Yukich said.
New Zealand is particularly known for the “flavours and aromas” of our sauvignon blank, he said.
“If you look at it from a global perspective, we are less than 2 percent of the world’s production – the trend at the moment is moving away from red wines and towards white wines, and it’s moving towards those more aromatic fresh white wines, so the trend is all in New Zealand’s favour.”
“So the wine’s that we make they are also very sustainably made, and we do take a lot of time to promote that around the world, and that is also in our favour because people do like to buy wines that are sustainably produced.”
Yukich said despite retail sales in the US increasing, retailers were being slow to restock New Zealand wine on their shelves, “and we are feeling that a little bit in New Zealand.”
“They’re unstocking – so that means less sales in the short term … less imports from New Zealand at the moment … but the outlook in the long term is good. Just about every other country’s sales at retail level are reducing, and wine in general is reducing – against that backdrop New Zealand wine is increasing … the long term picture is good.”
Picking has just begun for this season’s sauvignon blanc, but in the face of declining consumption in New Zealand and international, some growers in Marlborough have recently been advised to leave some of their crop unpicked.
“In the last three years we’ve had three massive crops, that Mother Nature has delivered – and this year’s no different to 2022 and 2023, where the vines are delivering a lot of grapes,” Yukich said.
“And the wine companies are saying ‘well look, we need to temper that against what is actually being exported out of the country’.
“It’s not great news for our growers… but the long term outlook is good.”
From experiential marketing to bright whites, 2025 is set to see trends prioritising wellness, innovation and sustainability, according to a report by AF&CO.
As we look ahead to wine in 2025, the industry is undergoing a transformation driven by shifting consumer preferences, climate challenges, and generational tastes. From low-alcohol wines to experiential offerings, here are the trends that will define the year ahead, based on insights from the AF&CO + Carbonate Trends Report 2025.
Chenin Blanc leads the charge in bright whites
White wines are poised for continued growth in 2025, outpacing reds globally. Beyond mainstays like Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio, under-the-radar varieties are gaining attention. Chenin Blanc is emerging as a standout, combining the crispness of Sauvignon Blanc with Chardonnay’s complexity, making it both versatile and age-worthy.
In the Loire Valley, where Chenin Blanc thrives, producers predict its plantings will surpass Sauvignon Blanc, thanks to its resilience in a warming climate. Bourgueil, traditionally a red wine appellation, has begun lobbying for a high-quality designation for its Chenin Blanc wines, signalling the grape’s resurgence. Across the Atlantic, California winemakers and Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle are spearheading a revival of Chenin Blanc in the United States, further broadening its appeal.
Innovative whites such as White Malbec from Argentina and White Pinot Noir from Oregon are also reshaping the category, offering fresh, unexpected options for adventurous drinkers.
Low-alcohol wines for wellness-conscious consumers
Health and wellness trends continue to influence the wine industry, with low-alcohol wines gaining momentum. Brands such as Duckhorn, Kendall Jackson, and Kim Crawford have introduced reduced-alcohol ranges to appeal to health-conscious consumers seeking moderation without sacrificing flavour.
Similarly, Chilean wine brand Casillero del Diablo, owned by Concha y Toro, has launched its first alcohol-free wine in the UK market with the introduction of a de-alcoholised sparkling wine.
The trend aligns with the broader movement towards mindful drinking, as consumers increasingly look for wines that complement their lifestyles.
Alternative formats and sweet wines
Cans, magnums, and other packaging formats are resonating with younger consumers prioritising convenience and sustainability. Additionally, sweeter wines with lower alcohol are successfully drawing in new drinkers. Inspired by global flavour trends, these approachable wines tap into the popularity of sweet and spicy combinations, broadening wine’s appeal to diverse audiences.
Experience-driven consumption
Wineries are moving beyond traditional tastings to create immersive, memorable experiences. Younger generations, particularly Gen Z and Millennials, are drawn to events where wine is part of a larger narrative. From art installations to retro-inspired social hours, wineries like Bella Union in Napa Valley are aiming to engage younger consumers through unique on site tasting spaces, and features like outdoors after hours bars.
Sustainability and adaptation
Sustainability remains a critical focus as climate change impacts vineyard management and consumer priorities. The shift towards resilient grape varieties, such as Chenin Blanc, reflects efforts to adapt to changing growing conditions. At the same time, eco-friendly packaging and practices are increasingly integral to marketing strategies aimed at environmentally conscious consumers.
‘After our first vintage, my Italian viticulture professor came over with tears in his eyes’
The founder of Cloudy Bay wine, David Hohnen, has teamed up with entrepreneur Rupert Clevely — of Geronimo Inns fame — and the Marlborough Grape Growers Cooperative to launch Marlborough Heartland, a Sauvignon Blanc which captures the essence of a remarkable landscape.
Hohnen doesn’t just move through the wine world, he tears through it on a motorbike. Literally. In 1969, aged 20, he rode from Adelaide to Sydney, loaded his bike onto a P&O liner, and crossed the Pacific to California, petrol still sloshing in the tank. He landed in Fresno, a dusty, agricultural outpost in the Central Valley, where the local university offered five-acre student vineyards and a neglected teaching winery which hadn’t produced a drinkable drop in years. That changed when Hohnen got the keys.
“They gave me five acres of Carignan and told me to get on with it,” he says. “The winery was a mess. I spent three months scrubbing tanks. After our first vintage, my Italian viticulture professor — a good man called Vince Petrucci — came over with tears in his eyes and said, ‘Thank you, this is the first wine I’ve been able to drink from this place.”’ Hohnen was hooked.
Back in Western Australia by 1970, Hohnen helped plant the early vines which became Cape Mentelle. There was no blueprint, just instinct, energy and the conviction that wine ought to express something beyond itself. “In ‘74 we had our first real vintage. ‘78 was terrific — critic James Halliday gave us a great write-up. We were in a shed, crude kit, but the wines had promise.”
Then, in 1983, he was ambushed by a grape. A few bottles left by visiting Kiwi winemakers turned everything. He says: “It wasn’t just good – it was electrifying.”
Armed with curiosity and air miles donated by his brother Mark, Hohnen zigzagged across New Zealand in search of the right spot for Sauvignon Blanc. Gisborne was too lush. Hawke’s Bay, too humid. Then came Marlborough. “It was brown. Dry. Sunlit. I thought, “Gotcha!”’
From trout to triumph
By 1985, Cloudy Bay was born; funded by a brutal million-dollar loan at 23.5 per cent interest. The decision was sealed after Hohnen’s brother’s business partner, Simon Fraser (of the Loch Ness Frasers), caught a trophy trout on a fishing trip in the area. “I always said Cloudy Bay owes it to a fish.”
They built the winery at speed, introduced a tilt-up slab technique that had never been used in New Zealand, and sent grapes north to Kevin Judd, the pioneering winemaker Hohnen had met at a wine show in Auckland. The 1985 vintage was blended with a little Riesling and Semillon, allowing it to age gracefully. “It worked,” says Hohnen says. “People still remember their first glass.”
Cloudy Bay wasn’t launched. It bolted onto the scene: “People thought we contrived the allocation. We didn’t. It was a runaway horse. I just sat firm in the saddle, held the reins, and tried to steer.” Demand constantly outpaced supply. “Probably never caught up in my time.”
Veuve Clicquot came calling. Under the stewardship of Joseph Henriot, and later Cécile Bonnefond, Cloudy Bay thrived. “They were smart. Understood wine. Understood brand. Let us get on with it.”
By 2000, Hohnen found himself Chairman and MD of both Cape Mentelle and Cloudy Bay. “Not my choice of title. For a country hick, it sat heavy. I decided to leave. Should’ve gone straight away. Instead, I stuck around for the handover — the worst mistake I ever made.”
He drifted, gloriously. Raised free-range pigs with real care, railing against their status as “the four-legged chooks of the world.” Then came the charcuterie, but done properly: low intervention, slow drying, clean, honest flavours.
The return
In 2022, Cloudy Bay called him back. They’d rebuilt the original winery as a visitor centre and named it the Founder’s Centre. “It was emotional. We’d parted well, and we’re friends again now.”
He had one last idea: enter Marlborough Heartland – a new label, made in collaboration with Rupert Clevely (of Geronimo Inns) and the Marlborough Grape Growers Cooperative, a formidable alliance of 80 growers who usually make bulk wine.
“They do 16 million litres a year,” Hohnen says. “I said, let’s make something special. We picked eight vineyards on deep pebble soils in the central Wairau Valley – the black country. That’s where the best Sauvignon comes from. Ripe, not green. No tomato leaf. Just bright fruit, full palate, lovely tingle. For just over a tenner, it speaks.”
His daughter, Freya — top of her class, a seasoned winemaker, and mother of two — is on the blending bench. “She does the high notes. I do the low. You’ve got to have both.”
A sense of place
What’s in the name? Like Cape Mentelle or Cloudy Bay, it’s geographical. “Some said ‘Cloudy’ sounded like cloudy wine. They were wrong. Place matters. It grounds you.”
Today, the second vintage of Marlborough Heartland is sailing towards England. Sainsbury’s has backed it. The supermarket’s wine agency partner, Watermill Wines, helped secure the listing. “They’ve got the buyers. We’ve got the story.”
And what a story. Cloudy Bay went on to become the world’s best-known white wine. No fuss, no spin, just magnetic Marlborough Sauvignon bottled by a man who listened when the land spoke.
Says Hohnen: “I’ve never had anything from New Zealand. But that’s because I’m Australian. Not sure they like to admit an Aussie created their most famous wine. Doesn’t matter. I’m just happy to be back.”
What’s next? “I don’t look back. I’ve made mistakes, sure. But winemaking is a privilege. You meet good people — real people — farmers whose wealth comes from the earth. Not suits.”
If he could share a bottle with anyone? “It’d be family. Always family. Someone once said, “Without family, you’d have to fight with strangers!” We’ve done pretty well.”
So ends this chapter, with the vines back under his feet and the Marlborough sun on his face. David Hohnen, still steering the horse. Still making the wine speak…
Pinot noir is a beloved wine variety in NZ, favoured for its elegantly balanced fruit, florals and lithe profile. It’s an elegant wine so is easy to love – but hard to grow, hence being nicknamed the ‘heartbreak grape’. Its thin-skinned and susceptible to disease, so it took brave wine-making visionaries to attempt to grow pinot here in NZ. Early champions of the wine were told that they were mad.
Luckily for pinot lovers, one such ‘madman’ didn’t listen. Irishman Alan Brady came to Central Otago and planted pinot on a small plot in Gibbston Valley, despite people telling him repeatedly it would had produced the first modern commercial pinot noir in 1973 from Canterbury-grown grapes).
There was no looking back and pinot planting in the region surged from less than 150ha in 1990 to 2000ha by the year 2000. Alan is respected as the godfather of NZ pinot noir and at almost 90 was present at the recent Pinot Noir Conference in Christchurch still with a thirst for knowledge and the desire to share what he has learned along the way.
The three-day event was an opportunity to be inspired by the NZ pinot noir journey and to plan the future for this exciting wine variety.
Today, NZ’s pinot plantings exceed 5700ha. Pinot noir grapevines like a cool climate and thrive in all wine regions from the Wairarapa south as well as in higher altitude regions of Hawke’s Bay. The largest concentration of plantings is in Marlborough.
There is no question that pinot noir is NZ’s most important red grape, so making this wine well represents a level of skill in growing and wine-making that not all wine regions are capable of, regardless of climate. It truly is a reflection of just how special NZ wine is and we want the world to know.
This year’s list showcases 141 producers at the top of their game in Aotearoa New Zealand. We also see several new entrants to the list, including some newer producers who are making waves with different varieties and styles.
What we hope this list will do is introduce you to the true breadth and diversity which is possible in New Zealand wine.
Felton Road winemaker Blair Walter TRR
However, it’s not all change and certainly not for change’s sake! After running The Real Review’s algorithm across all of the tasting notes for the past two years, when the dust settled, Felton Road re-emerged as the Winery of the Year, with Destiny Bay also retaining its position at number two. I cover the reasons for Felton Road retaining their top spot in a separate article published later this week. In third spot is Te Whare Ra from Marlborough.
Significant gains were made by South Island producers who had a less challenging vintage in 2023 than their cousins in the north. This was mostly at the expense of Hawke’s Bay producers who bore the brunt of Cyclone Gabrielle that year, destroying vineyards, buildings and vines.
Destiny Bay Wines on Waiheke Island
Despite the challenges, there were some beautiful wines snatched from the jaws of defeat, as amply demonstrated by Te Mata Estate rising to seventh place. I also cover the specific effects of this vintage disparity between north and south in a separate piece.
Looking at the most visible changes to the rankings, Central Otago continues to strengthen its position on the list. Last year, the region stood out for claiming 23% of the list. This year, it is represented by 42 producers (who are either wholly or partly in the region as some own vineyards in multiple regions). This translates to 29.7% which is a reflection of a seemingly unbroken run of good vintages for the region, increased uptake of organic and regenerative farming, investment from both existing and new interests.
Jason and Anna Flowerday of Te Whare Ra Wines.
Another region which is punching above its weight is North Canterbury, which now claims 10 wineries on the list, or 7.1% of the total (up from 5.7% a year ago). For comparison, it represents 3% of the country’s total vineyard planted area. Despite the difficulties of 2023, the Wairarapa (which also has 3% of the national vineyard) held its ground, with 14 producers representing 10% of the total list. Those holding down the fort will be looking forward to the 2024s entering the market, with all signs pointing to it being a spectacular vintage for the region.
The other region to note in all of this is Marlborough, whose story is hidden in the details. Despite having the lion’s share of the list (admittedly, they do have the overwhelming majority of the country’s planted area), the wineries which have climbed into the top ranks are not all known for their sauvignon blanc. In fact, a few of them don’t even release one at all, and several of those who do make sauvignon do not make it in the typical style of the region’s calling card.
This is not to deride New Zealand’s most identifiable and commercially successful style of wine but rather to point out that the behemoth of Marlborough is more diverse and detailed than many think. The wineries who have made into the top echelons of the list are as committed to making excellent pinot noir, outstanding chardonnay, arresting aromatics and effusive sparkling wines on top of their benchmark sauvignons.
Over the past few weeks, we have also introduced you to the finalists for our new awards categories; Vigneron of the Year, Rising Star of the Year, and five Wines of the Year in different styles. We are delighted to announce the winners for all eight of these awards at the end of this article. And to address the elephant in the room, yes, all of the winners are producers in Central Otago or Marlborough (A Thousand Gods have their winery in Canterbury but their wines are all from the Churton Vineyard in the Southern Valleys of Marlborough).
This was not a deliberate statement or an intended result; however, we judged each category on their own against their peers and in each case the panel selected the wine or producer they felt best embodied the spirit and substance of the award. It is perhaps a testament to the great work being done in these two regions that they have claimed all the awards between them, but it should not be overlooked that great wine and good work is being made throughout the country—as can be clearly seen in the wider diversity in the list of finalists.
What we hope the Top Wineries list will do is introduce you to the true breadth and diversity which is possible in New Zealand wine, and invite you to celebrate the wonderful wealth of great wine made in Aotearoa. Happy reading!
New Zealand’s top 50 wineries have been named in an annual awards list.Blair Walter, winemaker from Central Otago winery Felton Road.Destiny Bay, a winery on Auckland’s Waiheke Island.Stephen Wong, MW, from The Real Review, an online wine critic platform.Anna and Jason Flowerday from Te Whare Ra winery
Simon Sharpe and Lauren Keenan of Marlborough winery A Thousand Gods
Expert judges have crowned the top 50 wineries for 2025, with a Central Otago winery taking the top spot for the second year running.
Online wine critic platform The Real Review has named Bannockburn’s Felton Road as Winery of the Year.
“In a competitive field, Felton Road continues to lead by example,” says judge Stephen Wong, MW.
“Their wines are defined by purity, balance and a deep respect for the land.”
Wong says the second consecutive win reflects the winery’s “continuous improvement” that “sets a benchmark for the industry”.
The annual top wineries list recognises excellence across the country.
Wong says Kiwi wine-drinkers can use the list to give them “a clear sense of who is leading the way in New Zealand winemaking right now”.
Waiheke’s Destiny Bay took the runner-up spot this year, with Te Whare Rā and Framingham (both from Marlborough) and Martinborough’s Dry River rounding out the top five.
This year’s awards introduced a new “Best in Class” category, celebrating excellence across various wine styles. The inaugural winners were Quartz Reef‘s Methode Traditionnelle Blanc de Blancs 2017 for Sparkling Wine of the Year; Prophet’s Rock Cuvée Aux Antipodes Blanc 2022 for White Wine of the Year; Doctors Flat Pinot Noir 2021 for Red Wine of the Year; and Astrolabe’s Wrekin Vineyard Late Harvest Chenin Blanc 2022 for Sweet Wine of the Year.
It is also the first time a Vigneron of the Year award has been presented, recognising excellence in viticulture.
Anna and Jason Flowerday of Marlborough’s certified organic winery, Te Whare Rā, are the inaugural winners.
“Highlighting individual wines and the people behind them allows us to tell a fuller story of New Zealand wine’s journey,” says Wong.
“As our industry matures, it’s vital we recognise not just the wines, but the people and philosophies shaping them.”
Wong says the Flowerdays were recognised because of their “deep connection between vineyard and bottle”, praising their commitment to sustainability while retaining a commitment to striving for excellence.
Rounding out the awards, Simon Sharpe and Lauren Keenan of Marlborough winery A Thousand Gods were awarded the Rising Star of the Year.
Enthusiasts can sample 80 of this year’s award-winning wines and meet the winemakers at a tasting event in Auckland on June 7, with tickets available via The Real Review’s website.
NZ wineries will be further recognised in August, with Viva’s own Top 50 wine awards, judged by Viva Wine Editor Dr Jo Burzynska.
The full 2024 list of winners can be found at viva.co.nz.
See the Real Review’s Top 50 Wineries of New Zealand 2025 below:
1. Felton Road – Bannockburn, Central Otago
2. Destiny Bay – Waiheke Island, Auckland
3. Te Whare Rā Wines – Renwick, Marlborough
4. Framingham – Renwick, Marlborough
5. Dry River Wines – Martinborough, Wairarapa
6. Prophet’s Rock – Bendigo, Central Otago
7. Te Mata Estate – Havelock North, Hawke’s Bay
8. Rippon – Wanaka, Central Otago
9. Ata Rangi – Martinborough, Wairarapa
10. Pyramid Valley Vineyards – Waikari, North Canterbury
11. Craggy Range – Havelock North, Hawke’s Bay
12. Bell Hill – Waikari, North Canterbury
13. Obsidian – Waiheke Island, Auckland
14. Hans Herzog Estate – Rapaura, Marlborough
15. Kusuda Wines – Martinborough, Wairarapa
16. Church Road – Napier, Hawke’s Bay
17. Rockburn Wines – Cromwell, Central Otago
18. Elephant Hill Estate – Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay
19. Villa Maria – Auckland
20. Smith & Sheth – Havelock North, Hawke’s Bay
21. Cloudy Bay – Blenheim, Marlborough
22. Fromm Winery – Blenheim, Marlborough
23. Bilancia – Hawke’s Bay
24. Neudorf – Upper Moutere, Nelson
25. Gibbston Valley Wines – Gibbston, Central Otago
26. Wild Irishman – Gibbston, Central Otago
27. Siren Wine – Marlborough
28. Corofin – Blenheim, Marlborough
29. Terra Sancta – Bannockburn, Central Otago
30. Blank Canvas – Marlborough
31. A Thousand Gods – Marlborough
32. Tantalus Estate – Waiheke Island, Auckland
33. Mt Difficulty Wines – Bannockburn, Central Otago
34. Puriri Hills – Clevedon, Auckland
35. Greystone Wines – Waipara, North Canterbury
36. Black Estate – North Canterbury
37. Charteris – Central Otago
38. Radburnd Cellars – Hawke’s Bay
39. Doctors Flat – Central Otago
40. Isabel Estate – Marlborough
41. Dog Point Vineyard – Marlborough
42. Batch Winery – Waiheke Island, Auckland
43. Giesen Wine Estate – Marlborough
44. Forager Wine – Marlborough
45. Valli – Central Otago
46. Man O’ War Vineyards – Waiheke Island, Auckland
47. Astrolabe Wines – Marlborough
48. Mudbrick – Waiheke Island, Auckland
49. Clos Henri – Marlborough
50. The Boneline – North Canterbury
A new horticultural initiative could transform New Zealand into a commercial catnip producer, paving the way for the export of locally made pet wines to international markets.
Kiwi start-up, Muttley’s Estate, has created a shelf-stable pet wine that can be stored for up to 12 months.
Catnip (or Nepeta cataria) was introduced to New Zealand as a garden herb in 1870 and is estimated to positively impact mood in about two-thirds of cats while helping to soothe anxiety in dogs.
Global demand for catnip is rising, driven by pet product manufacturers and natural health industries.
The catnip essential oil market alone is projected to grow by 5.8% annually by 2030 to reach $400 million.
Kiwi start-up, Muttley’s Estate, is believed to be the world’s first manufacturer to have created a shelf-stable pet wine that can be stored for up to 12 months.
The breakthrough has made large-scale production and export more viable.
John Roberts, director of Muttley’s Estate, said catnip was a resilient crop that had adapted to grow well in New Zealand’s temperate climate and well-drained soils since it was first introduced.
He said the commercial-scale farming of catnip would further diversify New Zealand’s horticultural sector.
Roberts said, with a growing domestic footprint, the company had now set its sights on the lucrative US market, where pet owners sought premium, novelty products for their furry companions.
“One of the key advantages of catnip is that even a small crop yields enough to produce a batch of pet wine, allowing us to create a high-value product without requiring extensive land investment,” he said.
“With the growing international interest in catnip and the ‘humanification’ of pet diets, it was a natural extension to explore the development of a premium beverage for pet owners to celebrate with their pets.”
Roberts said Muttley’s Estate had already signed more than 40 retailers since launching the range in New Zealand less than a year ago.
“We believe the reputation of NZ’s wine sector in North America will help us establish an entry into this market and we [are] now actively looking for US distributors.”
Roberts said research showed the impact of chronic anxiety and stress among pets had become more prevalent due to a combination of urbanisation, multi-pet household dynamics, ongoing issues relating to the pandemic and shifting lifestyles.
“International studies have found almost a third of dogs showed high sensitivity to noise, with fireworks a particular problem, while 29% of dogs were said to be highly fearful, and 14% showed highly problematic aggression.
The Muttley’s Estate offers multiple “varietals,” each featuring a different concentration of catnip.
“Symptoms of anxiety in cats are often more subtle, yet owners reported signs of tail flicking, avoiding eye contact, and shifting head/body away repeatedly [every week or every other day] or more often than usual.”
He said the range was created to help alleviate some of the modern stressors on pets, but unlike conventional wines, the products contained zero alcohol.
“The range offers multiple ‘varietals,’ each featuring a different concentration of catnip: lighter whites such as the Champawgne appeal more to cats, while the deeper blends such as the Purrno Noir and Pawt are popular with dogs,” he said.
Muttley’s Estate is already selling through veterinary clinics and pet retailers across New Zealand.
It has also held tasting events at local dog parks.
“We were overrun by canines wanting to taste the pet wine, and it demonstrated the positive response across a wide variety of breeds,” Roberts said.
The company was now working with New Zealand Trade and Enterprise to identify distributors in overseas markets.
“We’d love to see entire fields of catnip grown right here,” Roberts said.
“The idea that we could turn a small backyard experiment into a nationwide horticultural endeavour, and share it with pet lovers worldwide, is really exciting.
“It’s a chance for New Zealand to do something fresh and unexpected – yet again.”
The company is also investigating the potential of catnip for human consumption, with trials underway to determine its suitability for the human market.
“Catnip is related to the mint family, so it is safe for humans,” Roberts said.
“We’re working with food technologists to explore the possibilities.”
The signing of the UK-NZ trade deal was ‘just the start of the journey’, official says after update to reduce wine barriers
Trade and Investment Minister Todd McClay examines New Zealand wines on sale in a London supermarket. Photo: Supplied
New Zealand wines now have a smoother pathway into the United Kingdom, with one British official saying the changes show the value of the “living, growing” trade deal between the two countries.
Government officials and ministers from both countries met in London last month for the joint UK-NZ ministerial trade committee set up to monitor the free trade agreement signed in 2022.
Following the committee meeting, the UK formally agreed to accept exports of New Zealand wine made using ammonium chloride, agar, alginic acid, and potassium ferrocyanide (used to adjust the stability, clarity and acidity of wine).
Frazer MacDiarmid, the British High Commission’s lead trade policy adviser, told Newsroom the winemaking changes were a good example of the trade deal’s status as a “living, growing agreement”.
“The perception is that once you’ve signed, that the deal’s done, you never even think about it again … but certainly from the UK perspective, and I think it’s shared by the New Zealand government, that’s actually just the start of the journey.”
MacDiarmid said the annual committee discussions were a chance to assess the success of the deal, reflect on feedback from businesses, and think about what changes could be made in response.
The deal had been largely well received in the UK, with concerns from some about New Zealand lamb imports flooding the market not borne out by trade statistics.
After formally leaving the EU in early 2020, the UK had needed to quickly get a handle on trade policy and negotiations, and had looked to New Zealand as a “key partner for how trade is done”, MacDiarmid said.
“It’s been quite a collaborative relationship with New Zealand, to the level of exchanging notes about how different negotiations are going, and different negotiation tactics for different FTAs that we’re hoping to get with other partners.”
NZ Winegrowers general manager for advocacy Sarah Wilson told Newsroom closer regulatory alignment between the two countries was good news for winemakers sending their product to their second-largest export market.
Wilson said the original trade deal had also allowed for greater flexibility on labelling and other winemaking practices for New Zealand wine headed to the UK.
The sector would also support the UK joining the World Wine Trade Group, a government-industry partnership set up to remove trade barriers, as that would lead to “full mutual acceptance” of winemaking practices between the two countries.
Trade and Investment Minister Todd McClay told Newsroom the UK’s decision was a good example of how high-quality trade deals could deliver value beyond tariff reductions.
“This is exactly what the NZ-UK free trade agreement was meant to do – remove trade barriers, support regulatory alignment, and make it easier for exporters to get their products to market.”
Wine exports to the UK were worth $426 million this year, and McClay said aligning winemaking standards would give local producers greater flexibility to use modern techniques while maintaining market access and growing trade.
“The UK’s move shows confidence in New Zealand’s production systems and highlights the kind of trust-based, practical trade relationships we’re focused on – ones that deliver real outcomes for exporters.”
British High Commissioner Iona Thomas told Newsroom the changes showed the trade deal wasn’t “just a one-off piece of paper” but an ongoing, active partnership between the two countries.
“The annual joint committee, and the work that our policy teams do week in, week out, is where we turn the ambition of the agreement into action,” Thomas said.
“The work that goes on behind the headlines ensures the deal delivers real benefits for businesses, consumers and communities on both sides of the world.”
They’re too small, inhibit flavour appreciation and, according to one sommelier, should be ‘outlawed’. But what are the better alternatives?
The Telegraph consulted wine experts to find out the dos and don’ts of drinking champagne Credit: Haarala Hamilton
Maximilian Riedel has a mission: to rid the world of champagne flutes. “My goal is to make them obsolete within my lifetime,” says the 11th-generation glassmaker from Austria. “Champagne and sparkling wines deserve to be shown at their very best. A narrow flute does nothing for them.”
He is not alone in the charge against the tall, slender vessel – or in his determination to see wine glasses replace them. With 70 per cent of our perception of flavour coming from aroma, Riedel argues, the more open shape, whether a traditional white wine glass, a tulip-shaped one or bigger burgundy glass, enables the wine to be appreciated fully.
Acclaimed publican Heath Ball ditched “hundreds of flutes” when he took over The Angel in Highgate, London, in November 2024 – though he has reluctantly held a few back “because some people do like them and I hate to say no”.
At The Angel in Highgate, Heath Ball has largely dismissed flutes in favour of wider glasses
They should be “outlawed” insists sommelier Sandia Chang, who founded the online grower-champagne shop Bubbleshop and runs the two-Michelin-starred Kitchen Table restaurant in the capital with her chef husband James Knappett. And there’s not a flute in sight on the champagne trolley at the luxurious Grantley Hall near Ripon in North Yorkshire.
Flutes have been the go-to glass for champagne ever since – so legend says, and Riedel reports – 18th-century Benedictine monk and abbey cellarman Dom Pérignon said he liked to “watch the dance of the sparkling atoms” in a slim glass. As champagne became a drink associated with celebration, the flute contained a measured serving just right for a toast.
But sparkling wine is increasingly appreciated as a versatile, food-friendly drink worthy of more than just chin-chin moments at weddings. “We’re seeing more and more people drink sparkling wine just as they would a still wine,” says Ball. “And when you shift it from the flute [into a wine glass] it becomes more relaxed and more enjoyable. I’m all for that.”
So if flutes are out, what should you pour your next glass of fizz into?
A white wine glass
“All sparkling wines are better enjoyed in wine glasses rather than flutes,” argues Chang. “Flutes may look pretty but it’s almost impossible to appreciate the aromas of the wine without getting just bubbles up your nose.” And no, the flute’s shape doesn’t necessarily keep bubbles bubblier for longer: “A well-made sparkling wine will not lose its bubbles during the time it takes to drink a glass,” she says.
Sommelier Sandia Chang argues that sparkling wines are better suited to a white wine glass than a flute
The bowl of a white wine glass allows aromas and flavours to develop, and acidity to become balanced. “The wine looks good,” says Ball, “it’s better value for the customer, and more relaxed and contemporary.”
It’s more generous too. At The Angel, Ball will pour Château Palmer champagne or Australian lambrusco into an elegant wine glass as a 175ml serving, rather than the 125ml typically held in a flute. “With flutes, you fill the glass, then two sips later it’s all over. Where’s the fun in that?”
The universal shape of a white wine glass makes it a practical choice, a consideration even for a top sommelier like Isa Bal, co-owner with chef Jonny Lake of Trivet, the two-Michelin-star restaurant in Bermondsey. At home he keeps things simple – and saves space – with one set of glassware for all wines, including champagne: “A white wine glass does the job perfectly,” says Bal. “Leave it to restaurants and bars to have all those different glasses, and enjoy them when you’re out.”
Andrew Rogerson, who oversees the wine programme at Michelin-starred Shaun Rankin at Grantley Hall restaurant, cuts to the chase: “The less you spend on glassware, the more you can spend on champagne.” Who can argue with that?
A tulip-shaped wine glass
The narrower meeting point of bowl and stem in a tulip-shaped glass means bubbles are released gradually, its wider “hips” allow oxygen to reach the liquid, and the tapered rim captures and concentrates aromas.
“Those aromas are such a key part of how the champagne is experienced, how it tastes,” says Rogerson. Sommeliers steering the Grantley Hall trolley select subtly different-shaped glasses (most are German-made Zalto) for each champagne: it’s a narrower one for Shaun Rankin’s blanc de blanc because the wine’s delicate, leaner notes don’t require as much aeration to be enjoyed. A broader glass suits the richer Femme de Champagne by Duval-Leroy, while the Krug grand cuvée is poured into a glass the champagne house developed in collaboration with Riedel. “It has a broad, almost diamond shape that allows more space for aromas to develop,” says Rogerson. “The base of the bowl comes to a point to aid the formation of bubbles, and the wider body allows you to swirl the wine, speeding up oxidation and revealing the flavour in a way not achieved by more narrow glasses.”
The Grantley Hall wine trolley features various slightly differently-shaped glasses for different champagnes
Champagnes from Trivet’s renowned wine list, which includes tiny-production grower champagnes such as Pierre Péters grand cru Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, are also poured into delicate tulip-shaped glasses, the better to appreciate the wine.
A burgundy glass
Older vintages, or full-bodied rosé champagnes with aromatic red-fruit notes, can benefit from a larger pinot noir glass. “The intensity and complexity can require more interaction with oxygen,” says Rogerson. “They can also be best enjoyed at a slightly warmer temperature, making red wine glasses perfect. I was lucky enough to enjoy a glass of 1988 Cristal champagne, and in a red burgundy glass it opened up beautifully.”
A coupe (but only for vintage vibes)
Champagne can lose its bubbles and aroma quickly in a coupe or champagne saucer, but there’s still vintage and photogenic charm in this wide, shallow glass, says Fran Cutler, renowned planner of many a society party: “For a wedding or a special birthday toast, or when you just want people to feel more elegant, I love a coupe. There’s something about the shape that’s so timeless – the way you can cup it in your hands just feels glamorous. It has that charm that you don’t get with flutes or wine glasses, making people feel sexy, inviting a bit of mischief to the occasion.”
Coupes have a sexy, vintage air about them – but be mindful the champagne loses its bubbles quickly in this vessel Credit: Haarala Hamilton
The style is forever associated with the Great Gatsby-esque flamboyance of the 1920s but the rumour that coupes were first modelled on Marie Antoinette’s left breast is just that – a rumour – though they were popular during the 18th century. “The coupe is playful,” says Rogerson. “You might not get the most technically from the champagne, but if [a coupe] brings the most enjoyment, then people shouldn’t feel shy about asking for one. We always keep a few on the trolley just in case.”
A tumbler (so long as its crystal)
Small, chunky glasses should be avoided “for any type of wine,” believes Cutler. “That should be obvious, but I’ve seen it done, and it’s a shame – and a bit wasteful, especially when you’ve invested in good champagne. Glassware should be selected to set the mood for a good time.”
But is there a place for fizz in a tumbler? Riedel was recently spotted – on Instagram at least – splashing chilled Bruno Paillard champagne into one while on an Alpine hike. Needless to say, it was not a plastic beaker dredged from the back of the cupboard, but his own rather more elegant O to Go crystal glass tumbler.
Champagne flutes are out – try these instead
Tulip-shaped glass – mouth-blown glasses with tall stems, if you still hanker after a flute.White wine glass – a great all-rounder, and dishwasher-safe, too.Burgundy glass – with a generously sized, wafer-thin bowl.Coupe Waterford Elegance champagne belle – contemporary and delicate with a subtly flared rim.Tumbler Riedel O to Go White – the chic stemless option.
Some tips, before you reach for that wine glass…
Don’t
Stick your fizz in the fridge. The bottle should be well chilled before opening (between 8-10C is ideal, according to Riedel, because if too cold the flavours are masked), but 30 minutes in a wine bucket filled with ice is better to achieve this quickly if you forgot to put it in the fridge.
Do
Try decanting champagne. The process can lessen foaming, help soften acidity and release flavour. Riedel calls it “a revelation”, especially with young bottles, though he doesn’t recommend the process for older ones or champagnes with particularly delicate bubbles.
Don’t
Fill the glass more than half- or two-thirds full. This gives space for aromas to develop and concentrate.
Do
Keep the wine glass flat on the table when pouring – if you’ve got the skills of a sommelier. “The trick is to pour the champagne into the glass in one steady unbroken stream without the wine bubbling over the rim,” says Chang. The rest of us should adopt the 45-degree tilt and a slow pour to minimise foaming. “Wet” the glass first with a little champagne to let bubbles settle before continuing to pour.
Craggy Range in Martinborough won a Best in Show for its pinot noir. Craggy Range
A Martinborough vineyard is toasting its success after being awarded a prestigious ‘Best in Show’ honour at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards.
Craggy Range’s 2024 pinot noir was the only wine from New Zealand to get the top honour.
More than 200 judges tasted thousands of wines from 57 countries and only the top 50 get a Best in Show award. That amounts to just 0.3% of all wines tasted.
Craggy Range chief winemaker Ben Tombs called it a “fantastic” achievement.
“It is the most influential wine awards in the world,” he told Stuff Travel.
“It’s an awesome accolade to have. It goes towards our ambition … to stand along the great wine estates of the world. So it gives you a lot of confidence.”
The judges hailed the pinot noir as “an uncompromisingly dark wine that plays to New Zealand’s strengths in terms of purity and vivacity of fruit: raspberry, cherry and plum come streaming from the glass, and the fine meshing of fruit and oak in this wine adds to its lustre and appeal”.
Craggy Range chief winemaker Ben Tombs called it a “fantastic” achievement. Craggy Range
“In the mouth, the wine is both long and broad but not in any way clumsy, and the fruit flavours (raspberry to the fore again) are hypnotic.“
Tombs said the 2024 vintage in Martinborough is “really strong and unique”: “It was quite a warm and dry summer period, and you had these really small berries that gave heaps of concentration.”
He added the vintage was “pretty iconic” and “it just translated all the way through to wine … into the glass”.
Tombs said the award is a big boost for the area.
“It’s special for Martinborough as well. We’re a tiny little region. It’s only 500 hectares of actual pinot noir that’s planted, which is minuscule in the scheme of it.
“So to have that award for Martinborough is incredible.”
Globally, New Zealand finished 11th with a total of 303 medals when all the Best in Show, platinum, gold, silver and bronze awards are handed out by Decanter. France, Italy and Spain were the top three countries.
But where Aotearoa comes into its own is when the results were broken down by the number of medals earned relative to a country’s vineyard area and wine production volume.
It’s similar to the Olympics when a country’s medal tally is rated by population rather than the total number of podium places.
Decanter’s two key indicators are:
Medals per 1000 hectares of vineyard (kha) – showcasing quality output relative to land.
Medals per million hectolitres of wine (mhl) – indicating how much of a country’s production reaches an award-winning standard.
Here, New Zealand finished second in the world, with 2.94 medals/kha and 84.2 medals/mhl.
Judges wrote: “Despite its modest size, the country achieved 303 medals from just 3.6 million hectolitres of wine – an extraordinary concentration of quality.”
Greece finished top of this metric.
As for who will win next year, Tombs is expecting something special from both Craggy Range vineyards in Martinborough and Hawke’s Bay.
“2025 is shaping up to be quite, quite different, but really strong again. It’s a different flavour profile. It was actually quite overcast throughout summer, so we’ve actually got some really more savoury pinot this year.
Many winemakers have been facing a ‘catastrophic’ economic situation with rising costs and full cellars, industry leaders warned as they met France’s agriculture minister this month.
French vineyards, Credit: wilatlak villette / Moment via Getty Images
French wine is in a crisis that constitutes ‘one of the most serious in its history’, with both structural and cyclical challenges, industry bodies warned this week as they met with the country’s agriculture minister, Annie Genevard.
Winemakers currently face a ‘catastrophic’ economic situation, said the groups, including the Association Générale de la Production Viticole (AGPV), and Jeunes Agriculteurs, which represents young vintners.
Consumer markets are saturated, many cellars are ‘full to bursting’ ahead of the 2025 harvest and costs are rising, they said.
Producers are also dealing with repeated climatic hazards and international trade issues.
Calling for more urgent measures to help ‘save our wine sector’, they warned the industry is at a turning point and the choice is to either support it or witness its collapse.
France’s government has already offered to compensate growers to rip out vines to reduce supply. In late 2024, growers applied to grub up around 27,00 hectares in total, using around €109m of the €120m budget.
Most of the money left over will be used to create an emergency fund for young winemakers, the trade bodies said following their meeting with the agriculture minister this week.
Other measures were also discussed, such as protecting farmers’ income and the possibility of grubbing-up more vines. The trade bodies praised the minister for listening to their concerns.
French wineries aren’t the only ones facing difficulties. At the EU level, the European Commission recently proposed reforms to help make the bloc’s wine sector more competitive.
Proposals include efforts to promote wine but also to allow member states to pay producers for ‘green harvesting’, to cut supply.
Funds have previously been released for crisis distillation of excess wine, and this policy has made a return in some EU countries in recent years.
Several vineyard regions worldwide have also been grappling with oversupply, from parts of California to some areas of Australia.
Global wine consumption fell to its lowest level since 1961 last year, albeit this still constituted 214 million hectolitres (mhl), said the International Organisation of Vine & Wine recently.
A weaker grape price, capped yields and higher operating costs have squeezed grower profitability, and concerns are mounting for further pressure next season
In Marlborough, which produced 81.5 per cent of the national harvest this season, most of it sauvignon blanc, an estimated 15-20 per cent of the tonnage was unharvested. Photo: Getty Images
Grape growers produced a bumper crop this season, but an unprecedented amount of fruit never made it to a winery, and was left to wither on the vine or rot on the ground as winemakers grappled with oversupply after declining global demand.
Ideal growing conditions bolstered the 2025 harvest to 519,000 tonnes, the second largest on record (the largest harvest, 532,000 tonnes, was in 2022).
But an extra 75,000 to 100,000 tonnes of fruit have remained unharvested this season after wineries capped grape volumes, according to Mike Insley, a 30-year industry veteran based in the country’s biggest wine region, Marlborough.
“I can’t remember a year like it for unharvested fruit,” said Insley, a viticulture consultant at Grape Sense who was chief operating officer at Yealands Wine Group and national viticulture manager at Pernod Ricard NZ.
“Companies picked what they were required to pick, and left the rest behind.”
The bumper vintage comes as domestic storage is close to capacity after falling global demand, the Ministry for Primary Industries noted in its latest Situation and Outlook report in June.
Wineries’ inventories of sauvignon blanc, the country’s flagship wine, were at 10-year highs before this year’s harvest, the ministry noted in December.
In Marlborough, which produced 81.5 percent of the national harvest this season, most of it sauvignon blanc, Insley estimates 15-20 percent of the tonnage was unharvested.
Sales of New Zealand wine have increased in the US – “a bright spot in an otherwise declining import sector”, the New Zealand Winegrowers industry body says.
