IMBIBE Mermaidary tracks the rise of the ‘heartbreak grape’ pinot noir

@April NZ House and Garden 

The ‘heartbreak grape’ Pinot Noir
The ‘heartbreak grape’ Pinot Noir

Pinot noir is a beloved wine variety in NZ, favoured for its elegantly balanced fruit, florals and lithe profile. It’s an elegant wine so is easy to love – but hard to grow, hence being nicknamed the ‘heartbreak grape’. Its thin-skinned and susceptible to disease, so it took brave wine-making visionaries to attempt to grow pinot here in NZ. Early champions of the wine were told that they were mad.

Luckily for pinot lovers, one such ‘madman’ didn’t listen. Irishman Alan Brady came to Central Otago and planted pinot on a small plot in Gibbston Valley, despite people telling him repeatedly it would had produced the first modern commercial pinot noir in 1973 from Canterbury-grown grapes).

There was no looking back and pinot planting in the region surged from less than 150ha in 1990 to 2000ha by the year 2000. Alan is respected as the godfather of NZ pinot noir and at almost 90 was present at the recent Pinot Noir Conference in Christchurch still with a thirst for knowledge and the desire to share what he has learned along the way.

The three-day event was an opportunity to be inspired by the NZ pinot noir journey and to plan the future for this exciting wine variety.

Today, NZ’s pinot plantings exceed 5700ha. Pinot noir grapevines like a cool climate and thrive in all wine regions from the Wairarapa south as well as in higher altitude regions of Hawke’s Bay. The largest concentration of plantings is in Marlborough.

There is no question that pinot noir is NZ’s most important red grape, so making this wine well represents a level of skill in growing and wine-making that not all wine regions are capable of, regardless of climate. It truly is a reflection of just how special NZ wine is and we want the world to know.

Looking Ahead

Mid-year dinner

July is your Club’s mid-year dinner. This July it is to be held at Le Bouillon Bel Air Restaurant in Tory Street, Wellington CBD.

  • The event cost is $85 per person, and there will be Club bubbles on arrival at the restaurant as usual.
  • You are encouraged to bring your partner – even if they are not a Club member, they are more than welcome to come along to both your club’s meals.
  • This July’s meal is a good time to get out those French wines that you have in your wine cellars to share with friends at the meal.
  • We don’t have the menu at this stage, as the restaurant changes its menus every two months, so you get variety and season’s pickings all through the year. We won’t know the menu until it comes out on 23rd June, but please look at the present menu for a sample of what they offer to patrons.
  • There will be a notice sent out separately that will detail the new menu and payment details. This will require a response by July 4th.

Please read an article featured in Cuisine magazine: Le Bouillon Bel Air – Cuisine Magazine – From New Zealand to the World: “Princely dining for Paupers – Entering Le Bouillon Bel Air one finds oneself set down in a fancy Parisian restaurant, circa 1895. A bow-tied, black-waistcoated waiter leads you past mirrors decorated in the same sinuous Art-Nouveau style as the pierced wooden room divide…. The menu, too, is inspired by Chartier, so rather than being subjected to culinary experimentation as a paying lab rat, expect a comforting sense of tradition.”

August

Gibbston Valley, Central Otago

September

TBC

Looking Back – Dinner at Le Bouillon Bel Air ‘July 25

This new-ish French market was easy to get to and was pleasant when everyone arrived. We were seated upstairs as a group and the bubbles was swiftly handed around by the staff, who were personable and efficient.

It was well organised in a totally full restaurant, and the three courses rolled out in a timely fashion.

The entrée and dessert were well received, but unfortunately some of the mains were not so well received.

Please give the restaurant a go to experience it for yourselves, as most of your committee will be returning.