This will be an evening to remember: Club bubbles on arrival, shared meal dishes – some new/some old favourites, b.y.o. wines to share – perhaps try and match your bottle with Malaysian food – Gertz, Riesling, a Rose’, Pinot Noir or a Cabernet Sauvignon.
This is the 30th year of operation for Istana Malaysia, with Danny, the owner/chef, still on board. Everything is prepared fresh in the kitchen daily, guaranteeing quality and enjoyment.
We have planned no dessert for the evening, but please bring your favourite dessert wine, as this will complement both the food and finish the evening off nicely.
PLEASE NOTE: This will be on our usual Wednesday night, 14th December -not on a Saturday, arriving at 7 pm for a 7:30 pm start. The cost is $50 per head incl. GST and corkage.
January – The Club BBQ
A great way to kick the 2023 tasting year off. Details to follow.
From weekend brunches to housewarming parties to casual happy hours at home, popping a bottle of bubbles generally promises a good time. However, knowing what you’re drinking and which bubbles to seek out is key.
This month the club intends to present a number of different wine styles of quite a diverse quality in the hope that we can make your Christmas buying a little easier and more informed.
And our plan is to do so in a number of different ways, some of which will be with nibbles, whilst others may require a little deduction on your part to decide what is in your glass.
The wines are currently being sourced, but our plan is to include wines from around the world that will reflect the varying degrees of dryness/sweetness that is typical of the areas being tasted. These are likely to include Prosecco, a Cava, Champagne and several Méthode Traditionnelle wines from elsewhere.
We don’t want to say much more for fear of spoiling the surprise, But the slightly higher door price reflects some of the quality you will taste and some of the additional costs of bringing this tasting to you.
We look forward to you joining us for this fun evening with bubbles.
The Jura is a wine-growing region in Eastern France, bordering Switzerland. It sits just to the east of Burgundy but feels a world apart in many ways.
Burgundy is arguably the epicentre of the “fine wine” world (although Bordeaux may have something to say about this), with a long history of monastic and aristocratic estates, tiny plots of globally treasured terroir, and today, massively inflated prices.
The Jura is historically associated with its agricultural traditions of the collective production of Comte cheese, its obscure oxidised wines matured under a veil of yeast and left in barrels for literally years (much like a very cold climate dry sherry), and perhaps for its particular mountain-country style moonshine.
Or, just as likely, it was the admittedly very picturesque backcountry region you passed through on your way to skiing in the Alps. Until 20 years ago, it would be fair to say that most people in France, let alone the rest of the world, barely thought of this quiet, seemingly isolated region as much more than an oddity of the wine world.
But after a week spent tasting the region’s wines and visiting its winemakers, the transformation is startling. Both in terms of the wines being made here and, even more so, the wine world’s perception of the region.
I spent the first two days of my stay at Le Nez dans le Vert (the name translates literally as Nose in the Green, but is a play on Nose in the Glass, with a wink to organics), a wine fair featuring a line-up of many of the best organic wine producers of the region.
Since all of the stars of the region farm organically, that means, in practical terms, that is really a collection of simply the region’s best wines.
This is part of the region’s transformation and the attention it is now receiving. Small, determined, and very hands-on family-run estates committed to laborious viticulture, have shone a spotlight on the incredible potential of the region’s unique soils and its cold climate to produce astounding and nuanced wines.
NACHO DOMÃNGUEZ ARGENTA/UNSPLASH “After a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.”
While this is also true of changes in many grape-growing regions over the last couple of decades, the underlying factor in the Jura is they are exceptionally blessed in terms of “terroir”, and much of its potential is yet to be discovered.
When I first attended Le Nez dans le Vert around a decade ago, the wines were already great, but as a buyer, you always felt you could largely give or take what you wanted. This time, as I visited winemakers, I met buyers, journalists and wine fans from Munich, Amsterdam, Rome, London, New York, Tokyo and Seoul.
The global thirst for Jura wines is seemingly unquenchable. Somewhat victims of their own success, many of the winemakers at the tasting spent much of their time apologetically explaining why they couldn’t sell wine to new clients. Demand now greatly outruns supply.
I’m pretty sceptical about hype in the wine world; for whatever reason, it’s a business that seems to invite hyperbole, but after a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.
And there’s plenty to say they are going to get even better. I’ve met many exciting, driven young winemakers making their first wines for every “star” of the region whose wines and vineyards I was looking forward to visiting before I got here.
Some locals and others from all corners of the globe came to the region to work for and learn from the trailblazing generation before them, who are now putting down roots in the Juracian soil and pushing even further forward.
Much like its wines, the region is charged with energy and life today. As much as there are many reasons for optimism for the region’s future, especially if, like me, you find yourself seduced by its wines, there are twin menaces on the horizon.
The first is the effect of climate change. In one sense, the general warming of the planet is something that has driven interest in traditionally cooler regions like the mountainous Jura. But with it, global warming has also brought unpredictable and dramatic weather events. The 2021 vintage in Jura was hit with a double blow of heavy frosts in early spring, killing off much of the early season growth, and then weeks of rain throughout the summer, creating significant problems with mildew and odium.
BIG DODZY/UNSPLASH “After a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.” In New Zealand, we’re lucky to have a few key importers bringing in some of the best producers from the Jura.
Winemakers have recounted losses of production of up to 85%. The financial pressure that creates is very difficult to bear for a region based on small family-run farms. Similar climatic events have menaced several of the last decade’s harvests.
The cruel irony is that just as the hard-earned attention of the wine world has turned to Jura, the hard-working winemakers have nowhere near enough wine to satisfy that demand and finally see financial returns on years of commitment and investment.
Although it was alarming to see up close, I was aware of the problems with yield from conversations with friends and winemakers before my trip. What I hadn’t expected was the effect of the global wine market on the region, or more specifically, on the access of the region’s wines to wine lovers.
I encountered many stories of Jura wine bottles 10-15 years ago that was easily accessible to anyone but are now being traded on grey markets at prices in excess of 1000 euros a bottle. Speculation is a menace for genuinely interested consumers and winemakers who are still selling their wine for more or less the same low prices as they have for years in the hope their wines end up in the glasses of enthusiastic wine lovers.
As small artisan producers are struggling to keep going in the face of diminished yields, speculators are making fortunes and inflating the market beyond the reach of most. It seems anathema to the spirit of this wild, strange and beautiful region. And again, I’m reminded that Burgundy is so close by.
In New Zealand, we’re lucky to have a few key importers bringing in some of the best producers from the Jura. As befits this off-centre region, it’s tricky to recommend specific wines, as availability is complicated. Best try tracking these wines down either directly through their importers or at one of the following switched-on wine bars or restaurants.
In Auckland, try out Star Superette or their affiliated restaurant Bar Celeste, both on Karangahape Rd, or take a trip to Cave a Vin on the North Shore. In Wellington, the restaurant Highwater or wine bar Puffin are good ports of call if you want an introduction to Jura wine. Gatherings in Christchurch are a good starting point for those curious about Jura wines in the South Island.
Maison Vauron is the New Zealand importer of cult southern Jura winemaker J-F Ganevat and also of the trailblazing Domaine Tissot, who makes stellar oxidative wines. Domaine du Pelican is the Jura project of the esteemed Burgundy producer Guillaume d’Angerville, based on their purchase of the estate of the “Pope of the Jura” Jacques Puffeney. In New Zealand, their wines are imported by Peter Maude Fine Wines.
Domaine Bottes Rouges are one of the many new ambitious producers of the region. Their wines are imported to New Zealand by Wine Diamonds.
Contact any of the above to find out what Jura gems are available and where to find them.
What a great turnout for our Trifecta event from the Hawkes Bay vineyards!
This event was well attended by Club members, plus we had four guests attend. There were eight wines to sample for the evening, plus the owner Peter Robertson was there to let us in on some of his planting/vineyard secrets.
Peter explained to us how he started his wine career working for McWilliams making a rose spritzer that they used to export to Fiji! Times have certainly changed as have tasted in the 21st century.
2022 Fiesta Rose – a Syrah dominant variety, floral with strawberry and melon on the tongue
2022 Robertson Pinot Gris – this variety was from Brother John of Mission wines who introduced Peter to a 15-year-old bottle of this Pinot!
2021 Bergman Chardonnay – named after the Ingrid Bergman roses on their property. A more modern style rather than the heavy buttery style of old
2021 Barrique Fermented Viognier – surprisingly smooth in the mouth with fresh mineral notes
2021 Back Block Syrah – this variety had its first vintage in 2000, spicy and this is their biggest-selling wine!
2020 Ohiti Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – light and spicy but smooth with a year in old oak
2021 Hillside Syrah – actually grown on land that Peter was invited to use to grow grapes. Woody but smooth in the mouth.
2019 Reserve Vintage Gold Label Cabernet Merlot – a Bordeaux style wine, black fruits with subtle spice, this is wine is closed with the traditional cork stopper.
Our thanks go to Peter for his generous support for the Club, and to members for their support through the volume of sales.
Wednesday 12th October | Door Price: Members $14 / Guests $18
Pretty in pink
Rosé wine is an exciting and diverse category. New Zealand Rosé comes in a rainbow of pink hues, from the palest salmon to deep watermelon. Typically, they’re light-bodied, fruit-focused and just off-dry in style. While it’s often associated with Pinot Noir in NZ, this style of wine is no one-trick pony, and there is so much more to discover.
So, join us on Wednesday the 12th Oct, when our panel will take you on a tasting discovery of just what wonderful wines NZ can produce in this style.
Our presentation includes both still and sparkling Rosés, showing delicious aromas and flavours of ripe strawberries, raspberries and crushed cherries, sweet citrus, watermelon, honeydew melon, spices and fresh herbs. And the grapes used in the wines to be tasted will surprise you. They won’t just be Pinot Noir or Merlot dominant.
Here is some more Rosé information that may help in your appreciation of what the tasting may cover.
The specific colour of a given rosé is based on the amount of time that the skins have spent with the juice—though contrary to popular belief, darker-hued rosés are not always sweeter.
Due to their low tannins, high acid, and fruit-forward nature, Rosé—whether still or sparkling—is one of the most versatile, food-friendly wine styles on the planet.
When to Drink Pink? Rosés are perfect for spring and summer, as they are served chilled and can be a refreshing accompaniment to a variety of warm- weather fare. Rosé wines also top the charts for food-friendly versatility, as there’s a Rosé to suit most food types.
Regional styles of Rosé
Rosé styles, hues and myriad varieties are found throughout all of New Zealand’s wine regions, reflecting the fruit freshness and focus for which our wine is renowned.
Hawke’s Bay
Hawke’s Bay is home to a great many of the Merlot and Syrah-based Rosé, with some wines made from a blend of (often Bordeaux) varieties. The moderately-warm climate lends itself to robust, spicy and savoury wines with good depth of flavour.
Marlborough
Pinot Noir is the most common variety used for Marlborough Rosé, with characteristic aromatic intensity, ripe berry fruit and spice, and vibrant, well-balanced palates. There are also some interesting examples using less-common varieties such as Syrah and Montepulciano. Excellent quality Methode Traditionnelle Rosé is made in Marlborough.
Central Otago
The vast majority of Central Otago Rosé is Pinot Noir-based. Packed with bright strawberry, raspberry, ripe cherries and often a touch of spice and fresh herbs, the palate is lively and crisp palates with clean acidity. There are also several very smart examples of Methode Traditionnelle Rosé.
For many, Novinophobia – the fear of running out of wine – is very real. If you’ve been faced with surprise houseguests or the need for a quick, last-minute gift, you know the anxiety of an empty wine rack. The fix? An everyday vino with the sass and substance to stand up to any wine-related emergency.
Novinophobia is something that is joked about in the wine-lover community, and several vendors have picked up on this and created funny wine glasses, pillows and other products featuring novinophobia jokes to sell to this niche community. One can also find YouTube videos, Facebook pages and Instagram memes that joke about novinophobia.
Although this phobia creates a lot of laughs within the wine-drinking community, it is a real mental disorder. Individuals with this disorder panic when their wine glasses become empty or almost empty. They remain in a constant state of anxiety as long as no wine is left to drink.
On Wednesday, 3rd August, some Club members attended the last evening meal put on by WelTec’s Bistro52 Training Restaurant for this year. It was a well-balanced and portioned meal with well-matched wines.
The food was prepared, presented, served to a high standard, and was top-grade! The menu we savoured included:
Tasting Menu Sourdough Bread, Cultured Butter, Kapiti Sea Salt
Course One Prawn Chorizo Sausage, Puffed Pork Skin, Scallop XO, Almond Crema, Nashi Pear Compression Wine Match: Sauvignon Blanc Green gages on the tongue, this wine took away some of the saltiness of the food and smoothed things out.
Course Two Salt-Fish & Potato Churro, Fennel Bulb Confit, Saffron & Tomato Sofrito Miso Wine Match: Te Mata Chardonnay Wine toned down the spiciness of the food on the back of the throat, nice.
Course Three Slow Cooked Lamb Rump, Leek Custard, Lost Bread, Puy Lentils, Pickled Mushrooms, Red Wine Salt Wine Match: Babich Syrah Smooth, divine, blackcurrants on the tongue, the food made the wine almost caramelly.
Course Four Hangi – Kumara Steamed Pudding, Kumara Skin Infused Buttermilk Ice-Cream, Spiced Caramel, Torched Mandarin Wine Match: Veuve du Vernay I’m sure we’ve had this at the Cellar Club; bottle fermentation left a light fizzing on the tongue, and the food brought out extra fruit flavours in the wine.
The only query I had for the Maître that evening was course three: at our table, we debated if the ‘lost bread’ that accompanied the lamb rump was a euphemism for mountain oysters! It wasn’t, but the Maître was both amused and said he would speak to the chef about perhaps changing the description of the petite loaf that came as part of the meal!
Napier’s iconic National Tobacco Company factory on Ossian St in Ahuriri has gone from one vice to another. It is now home to a brewery, urban winery and, more recently, The National Distillery Company.
Blair Nicholl is doing the seemingly impossible, turning Hawke’s Bay-grown grapes into wine and gin.
It is there that Blair Nicholl is doing the seemingly impossible, turning Hawke’s Bay-grown grapes into wine, then into gin.
A bartender by trade, he has seen firsthand the “ebbs and flows” of the wine and craft beer industries.
He says that New Zealand is one of the biggest wine exporters to the United States and could soon be the powerhouse of the spirit industry.
“It’s what the New Zealand spirits industry has got ahead of them if we band together.”
Nicholl’s foray into distilling came when he, best friend, and business partner Ricardo Reis made a gin using botanicals found in women’s luxury beauty products for a Wānaka event in 2018. Their gin caught the eye of Cardrona’s head distiller, who invited them for a tour.
Bloody Syrah is available exclusively direct from the National Distillery Company.
They relocated to Napier, where Nicholl began distilling from his kitchen. A chance opportunity brought them to the building that had been on his vision board for ten years.
Like the dynamic duo, the owners were from Kāpiti and eager to see what these “Kiwi blokes with a dream” could do.
In early 2020, Nicholl and Reis found themselves in New York – dressed in jandals and T-shirts despite the cold – promoting their gins alongside New Zealand Trade and Enterprise.
“We stood out because we don’t take ourselves too seriously, but we’re deadly serious.”
Interest was growing in their product, and they would soon go on to win many accolades and awards in spirit-making competitions, beating big brands such as Beefeater, Bombay Sapphire and Tanqueray.
A bartender by trade, Nicholl has seen firsthand the “ebbs and flows” of the wine and craft beer industries.
But when Covid-19 hit, the pair “thought the National Distillery dream was over,” Nicholl says.
Bloody Syrah is available exclusively direct from the National Distillery Company.
With no means to sell alcohol, he and Reis began making hand sanitiser using grapes from Clearview winery, owned by long-time friend Tim Turvey, where the pandemic had also brought production to a near halt.
While it allowed them to keep the business going, it was terribly boring for a creative like Nicholl.
Then he got the idea for what became known as Bloody Syrah: a gin made from wine.
“I’m all about trying things that people haven’t done before or say can’t be done.”
“Wine is my first love. It’s something I’m extremely passionate about,” Nicholl says.
But he thought he could go a step further.
Using grapes from the coastal vineyard, Nicholl and Reis made a syrah, aged it in barrels, and played around distilling it into a clear, neutral spirit. Then they added the gin botanicals, distilled it again, put it back into oak, and left it for 12 months, turning it amber.
“We were trying to capture white pepper, and intense berry and earthy tones – the type of syrah that Hawke’s Bay is famous for.”
They bottled about 130 all up, corked and waxed, also like wine. The label draws inspiration from Penfolds, one of Australasia’s oldest wineries, and includes a dedication to Turvey.
Nicholl isn’t sure if his syrah gin is a world first, but it might well be, and it is certainly something he is happy to cross off his bucket list.
“I’m all about trying things that people haven’t done before or say can’t be done.”
At 44% alcohol by volume (ABV), Nicholl describes Bloody Syrah as the “cognac of gins”.
“Sit on one of these at a dinner party, and you only need one or two to be the life of the party. As long as Tim Turvey and myself aren’t there,” he laughs.
In 2018 we contacted Gordon Russell to see if he could present a tasting some time, and he said yes, he would be delighted, but it would need to be 2021!
Roll onto 2021 when sadly, the Covid levels meant that our Esk Valley tasting had to be postponed to that year. So, imagine your committee’s disbelief when Gordon contacted us in the week of our tasting to say sadly that his wife had COVID-19 and that he was having to isolate himself. He said he was disappointed but then offered to fast courier the tasting notes and wine to us so the meeting could continue. Thankfully, Richard Taylor then stepped up to the plate and, using the tasting notes, entertained us with an interactive evening that went down well and was much appreciated.
The club’s appreciation of the wines presented was subsequently reflected in the 141 bottles ordered by members.
The wines for the evening were:
Hawkes Bay 2022 Rose’ – was our mix and mingle wine and a beautiful shade of almost metallic pink, gentle on the nose, smooth in the mouth
Hawkes Bay 2021 Pinot Gris had a slightly pinkish colour with greengage on the tongue – it was a lovely extra tasty Pinot Gris which comes from free-draining terraces with the grapes themselves approaching 20 years old! Interestingly it has some oak barrel fermentation too
Artisanal Hawkes Bay 2021 Chenin Blanc – this is a new brand that has only been on the market for 12-18 months; it was a pale shade and, at the moment, has baked apple/citrus/peach on the tongue
Great Dirt Seabed Chardonnay 2020 – this is their premium label and was buttery on the nose and white peach on the tongue. The terrain where these grapes grow was tidal river territory before the 1930s Napier earthquake.
Artisanal Gimblett Gravels Grenache 2021 – nice dark red colour; this is a low-yield crop and is 100% Grenache, fermented in open-topped concrete carrels
Artisanal Gimblet Gravels Tempranillo 2021 – almost purple in colour, dry on the nose, dark berries with a hint of vanilla on the nose – has been in American and French oak and comes from a single block in Te Awa planted in 2018
Artisanal Gimblett Gravels Malbec, Cav Sauv, Merlot 2000 – again almost purple in colour, blackberry/currents on the tongue. This would go well with Venison. Again this is a low-yield crop, fermented with wild yeast in concrete open-topped barrels and kept until 2032!
Of the above, the most ordered was the Chenin Blanc. This reflected both the quality of this wine and likely the fact of how starved we are of this variety in New Zealand. Thanks again, Richard, for arranging this tasting and then stepping in to deliver it for Gordon. I am told that Gordon has already offered to do this again in 2024. You would be most welcome, Gordon.
As a courtesy, can we remind members to please listen when the invited presenters are presenting during their sessions? We will build in time during the presentations for discussion at your tables.
For those wondering what wine & tasting etiquette may be about, check out:
Your committee is again considering having our next Club dinner in the Courtenay Place area, close to public transport. This time we are considering going to the prestigious Istana Malaysia with a fixed banquet menu rather than individual meal choices. However, before further planning, we need to have a show of hands at the September tasting to gauge support for this idea. This is a spacious venue, great for BYO and well-established. If you can’t make the September tasting evening, please let the Editor know if you have any comments about this idea.
The Committee has been able to arrange for another top-flight Hawke’s Bay winemaker to present to the Club on Wednesday 14th September. This time it is Peter Robertson of Brookfields Winery, one of the doyens of winemaking in Hawke’s Bay.
A top selection of eight wines will be on offer. The wines will be available for purchase on the night at very good prices.
Founded in 1937, Brookfields is Hawke’s Bay’s oldest winery. It is located alongside the Tutaekuri River at Meeanee (between Napier and Hastings). The winery was purchased by its current owner and winemaker, Peter Robertson, in 1977, who transformed it into a leading winery for premium wines. The history of Brookfields is revealed in the handmade 25cm concrete blocks used to build the winery and cellar in the 1930s. These blocks create the perfect environment for ageing great wines and keeping the cellar cool during Hawke’s Bay’s hot summers. Peter creates classic wines with grapes that are only grown in specific locations and have strict growing policies.
Brookfield’s reputation has been built on stunning red wines. For example, the 1989 Gold Label cabernet/merlot on release stunned the critics and trade with its excellence. Subsequent vintages have firmly placed Brookfields as one of the best red winemakers.
Producing between 8,000 and 10,000 cases of wine each year, Brookfields has no desire to push up volumes when there is always the challenge of creating even more dramatic wine. Peter has been crafting exquisite wines from his vineyards in and around Meeanee since he bought the winery in 1977. He is often referred to as a quiet achiever, diligently going about his business, shunning the spotlight, and letting his wines speak for themselves. Showing the meticulous attention to detail that characterises the man himself, the depth, excellence and brilliance of all varietals remind you of his adept talent.
As he himself says, “It is my belief that superior wine comes from superior fruit; great wines are made in the vineyard. Much of the winemaking at Brookfields is traditional. The “Bergman” chardonnay is barrel fermented. The “Reserve” reds are hand-plunged and then aged in French oak barrels for at least a year. Time is a winemaker’s friend.”
I’m inviting your wonderful wine club members to join me for a very fun and delicious wine dinner at Shed 5, at 6 pm on Tuesday, Sept 6th, with Brockenchack Wines.
Brockenwho? Brockenthewhatnow?
Well, they’re a tiny, family-owned winery, they’re from the Barossa, they’re finally here in New Zealand, and I’ve been a massive fan for years now. This is why I’m co-hosting this tasting, and I’m really hoping some of your club members will join me!
Tickets are $90 per person for delicious food, wonderful wine, and excellent banter, guaranteeing you’ll leave with new knowledge AND happy tastebuds.
Please forward this invitation to your members and instruct them to register today.
Seats are super-limited, just 40 seats – so be speedy! I’m looking forward to meeting you all on September 6th!
Warmest wishes and phone me anytime on 021 3 798 77 to discuss.
Ngā mihi nui
Yvonne
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