Cloudy Bay, clear vision: the roundabout story of New Zealand’s most famous wine

Douglas Blyde 17Apr 2025 | The London Standard

‘After our first vintage, my Italian viticulture professor came over with tears in his eyes’

The founder of Cloudy Bay wine, David Hohnen, has teamed up with entrepreneur Rupert Clevely — of Geronimo Inns fame — and the Marlborough Grape Growers Cooperative to launch Marlborough Heartland, a Sauvignon Blanc which captures the essence of a remarkable landscape.

Hohnen doesn’t just move through the wine world, he tears through it on a motorbike. Literally. In 1969, aged 20, he rode from Adelaide to Sydney, loaded his bike onto a P&O liner, and crossed the Pacific to California, petrol still sloshing in the tank. He landed in Fresno, a dusty, agricultural outpost in the Central Valley, where the local university offered five-acre student vineyards and a neglected teaching winery which hadn’t produced a drinkable drop in years. That changed when Hohnen got the keys.

“They gave me five acres of Carignan and told me to get on with it,” he says. “The winery was a mess. I spent three months scrubbing tanks. After our first vintage, my Italian viticulture professor — a good man called Vince Petrucci — came over with tears in his eyes and said, ‘Thank you, this is the first wine I’ve been able to drink from this place.”’ Hohnen was hooked.

Back in Western Australia by 1970, Hohnen helped plant the early vines which became Cape Mentelle. There was no blueprint, just instinct, energy and the conviction that wine ought to express something beyond itself. “In ‘74 we had our first real vintage. ‘78 was terrific — critic James Halliday gave us a great write-up. We were in a shed, crude kit, but the wines had promise.”

Then, in 1983, he was ambushed by a grape. A few bottles left by visiting Kiwi winemakers turned everything. He says: “It wasn’t just good – it was electrifying.”

Armed with curiosity and air miles donated by his brother Mark, Hohnen zigzagged across New Zealand in search of the right spot for Sauvignon Blanc. Gisborne was too lush. Hawke’s Bay, too humid. Then came Marlborough. “It was brown. Dry. Sunlit. I thought, “Gotcha!”’

From trout to triumph

By 1985, Cloudy Bay was born; funded by a brutal million-dollar loan at 23.5 per cent interest. The decision was sealed after Hohnen’s brother’s business partner, Simon Fraser (of the Loch Ness Frasers), caught a trophy trout on a fishing trip in the area. “I always said Cloudy Bay owes it to a fish.”

They built the winery at speed, introduced a tilt-up slab technique that had never been used in New Zealand, and sent grapes north to Kevin Judd, the pioneering winemaker Hohnen had met at a wine show in Auckland. The 1985 vintage was blended with a little Riesling and Semillon, allowing it to age gracefully. “It worked,” says Hohnen says. “People still remember their first glass.”

Cloudy Bay wasn’t launched. It bolted onto the scene: “People thought we contrived the allocation. We didn’t. It was a runaway horse. I just sat firm in the saddle, held the reins, and tried to steer.” Demand constantly outpaced supply. “Probably never caught up in my time.”

Veuve Clicquot came calling. Under the stewardship of Joseph Henriot, and later Cécile Bonnefond, Cloudy Bay thrived. “They were smart. Understood wine. Understood brand. Let us get on with it.”

By 2000, Hohnen found himself Chairman and MD of both Cape Mentelle and Cloudy Bay. “Not my choice of title. For a country hick, it sat heavy. I decided to leave. Should’ve gone straight away. Instead, I stuck around for the handover — the worst mistake I ever made.”

He drifted, gloriously. Raised free-range pigs with real care, railing against their status as “the four-legged chooks of the world.” Then came the charcuterie, but done properly: low intervention, slow drying, clean, honest flavours.

The return

In 2022, Cloudy Bay called him back. They’d rebuilt the original winery as a visitor centre and named it the Founder’s Centre. “It was emotional. We’d parted well, and we’re friends again now.”

He had one last idea: enter Marlborough Heartland – a new label, made in collaboration with Rupert Clevely (of Geronimo Inns) and the Marlborough Grape Growers Cooperative, a formidable alliance of 80 growers who usually make bulk wine.

“They do 16 million litres a year,” Hohnen says. “I said, let’s make something special. We picked eight vineyards on deep pebble soils in the central Wairau Valley – the black country. That’s where the best Sauvignon comes from. Ripe, not green. No tomato leaf. Just bright fruit, full palate, lovely tingle. For just over a tenner, it speaks.”

His daughter, Freya — top of her class, a seasoned winemaker, and mother of two — is on the blending bench. “She does the high notes. I do the low. You’ve got to have both.”

A sense of place

What’s in the name? Like Cape Mentelle or Cloudy Bay, it’s geographical. “Some said ‘Cloudy’ sounded like cloudy wine. They were wrong. Place matters. It grounds you.”

Today, the second vintage of Marlborough Heartland is sailing towards England. Sainsbury’s has backed it. The supermarket’s wine agency partner, Watermill Wines, helped secure the listing. “They’ve got the buyers. We’ve got the story.”

And what a story. Cloudy Bay went on to become the world’s best-known white wine. No fuss, no spin, just magnetic Marlborough Sauvignon bottled by a man who listened when the land spoke.

Says Hohnen: “I’ve never had anything from New Zealand. But that’s because I’m Australian. Not sure they like to admit an Aussie created their most famous wine. Doesn’t matter. I’m just happy to be back.”

What’s next? “I don’t look back. I’ve made mistakes, sure. But winemaking is a privilege. You meet good people — real people — farmers whose wealth comes from the earth. Not suits.”

If he could share a bottle with anyone? “It’d be family. Always family. Someone once said, “Without family, you’d have to fight with strangers!” We’ve done pretty well.”

So ends this chapter, with the vines back under his feet and the Marlborough sun on his face. David Hohnen, still steering the horse. Still making the wine speak…

The Most Wanted Sauvignon Blancs of 2025

Searching for something fresh and zesty? We’ve got you covered.

Nat Sellers, Wine-Searcher Content Writer | 22-Jan-2025

© Shutterstock/stockcreations | Its light adaptability and food-friendliness has ensured Sauvignon Blanc remains as popular as ever.
Its light adaptability and food-friendliness has ensured Sauvignon Blanc remains as popular as ever. © Shutterstock/stockcreations

It’s that time again when we greet the new year with the world’s most wanted wines.

And kicking off this most anticipated series is that old French stalwart-cum-Kiwi icon, Sauvignon Blanc.

Fresh and vibrant with the capacity – if aged in oak or on lees – to be rich, textured and unctuous, although these expressions are rarer than their steelier counterparts.

Vineyards and rolling hills, Marlborough, South Island | © patjo / shutterstock.com
Vineyards and rolling hills, Marlborough, South Island | © patjo / shutterstock.com

This year’s list incorporates styles ranging from traditional Loire elegance to the New Zealand zingers that threw the Antipodean islands onto the world stage.

However, what’s interesting about this list is how virtually unchanged it is from last year’s with Louis-Benjamin – Didier Dagueneau’s Silex once more leading the pack.

Although classified as Vin de France, Louis-Benjamin – Didier Dagueneau is one of the Loire’s leading producers in Pouilly-Fumé, an appellation that’s known for its world-class smokey Sauvignon Blanc.

Didier Dagueneau was himself a risk-taker and, after a career in motorcycle sidecar racing, he eventually brought his rebellious spirit to winemaking.

However, despite ruffling feathers up and down the Loire Valley, Dagueneau succeeded in revitalizing the region. After his fatal ultralight plane accident in 2008, Dagueneau’s children have continued his legacy, with the bottles now bearing his son Louis-Benjamin’s name.

Despite being the world’s most popular Sauvignon Blanc for a second year in a row, with an aggregated score of 93 points, the Silex has changed very little pricewise, dropping from last year’s $225 to this year’s $223, while ten years ago, it hovered around $115.

Sauvignon Blanc: the variety that put New Zealand wines onto the world scale | ©patjo / www.shutterstock.com
Sauvignon Blanc: the variety that put New Zealand wines onto the world scale | ©patjo / www.shutterstock.com

Number two is Marlborough‘s perennial Cloudy Bay, which took third place last year. Cloudy Bay was founded in 1985 by David Hohnen – who had already established Cape Mentelle Vineyards in Australia’s Margaret River – and successfully put New Zealand wine on the map.

With an aggregated score of 90 points, it’s clear since those heady days in the 80s, that Cloudy Bay has yet to fall out of fashion, while prices have remained remarkably benign. Last year, it was $33 and has dropped a dollar to this year’s $32. Ten years ago it was roughly $27, proving astonishingly stable despite the passing of a decade.

Third is the Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux, which took second place last year. One of the Médoc‘s most illustrious estates, Château Margaux is best known for its classic red blends, however, their whites still clearly hit the mark.

With an aggregated score of 94 points, it currently sits at $318, a minor drop from last year’s $328, although a marked increase from the $181 of ten years ago.

Number four is another from Louis-Benjamin – Didier Dagueneau, this time the Pur Sang. The name is a direct translation of “purebred” – which often refers to thoroughbred horses – the label depicts the famous Lascaux cave painting of a horse.

The name suggests excellence, and this is reflected in the critic score of 93 points. It occupies the same spot as it did last year, and near enough the same price, coming in at $146 versus last year’s $145, having crawled up from the $87 of a decade ago.

Number five was also on last year’s list in the exact same place, the Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Neore. A small producer, Edmond Vatan is one of the most lauded producers in the Loire Valley, having built a reputation for making Sancerre that can age for decades.

However, with an aggregated score of 93 points, it also comes at a cost. A price tag of $367 makes it the second most expensive Savvy on this list, however, it’s still a marked come down from last year’s $455. Ten years ago, it sat at $101.

Six is the only American to make this list and the most expensive by several country miles. Last year it flew in at number seven, this year it’s clambered up a slot, absolutely no prizes for guessing what, it’s Screaming Eagle.

The luxury Californian winery based in Napa’s Oakville was first established in 1986 by former real estate agent Jean Phillips, who initially sold fruit to other Napa producers. However, after building a winery, 1992 saw the release of the first vintage of Screaming Eagle to rapturous praise – particularly from Robert Parker – firmly establishing cult status.

However, despite a 93 points critic score and the perennial waiting list, prices have dropped. Ten years ago, the wine stood at $3820 and last year it came in at $3955, however, this year it’s dropped to $3398 proving even the great eagle can’t escape a cost-of-living crisis.

Number seven is a Sancerre by Domaine Vacheron which didn’t feature on last year’s list. Another leading family-owned Loire producer, the estate is biodynamically run by third winemaking generation cousins, Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique.

Ten years ago, it came in at $24, today –  with an aggregated critic score of 90 points – it rocks in at a still modest $38.

Eight is another Kiwi offering, the Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc, which has slid two places from last year’s list. The Marlborough winery is owned by Kevin Judd, whose previous stint as a winemaker for Cloudy Bay saw him rise to prominence. As well as an excellent winemaker, Judd is also an impressive vineyard photographer.

The wine itself has an aggregated critic score of 91 points, while its price has been resolutely consistent. Ten years ago it was $20, last year it was $23, while this year it’s dropped a dollar to $22.

Number nine is a final entry from Louis-Benjamin – Didier Dagueneau with their ‘Blanc etc.’ / ‘Blanc Fume de Pouilly’. The name somewhat convoluted by the wine previously being called ‘Blanc Fume de Pouilly’ until it was later renamed ‘Blanc etc.’

Having dropped one place from last year’s list, Blanc.etc has still retained an impressive score of 90 points, however, the price has seen various shifts. Ten years ago, the wine came in at $60, last year it was $97 and this year, it’s crept up to $104.

Lastly in this year’s most wanted Savvy B, is the Francois Cotat Sancerre Les Monts Damnés occupying the exact same spot as it did last year. Francois Cotat is known for producing a traditional style of Sancerre from its esteemed Monts Damnés vineyard. Today, the estate is run by cousins Pascal and Francois Cotat who have followed in their fathers’ – the original founders – footsteps.

With an aggregated score of 92 points, this sophisticated sav has remained fairly consistent pricewise. Ten years ago, it hovered around $44, and the in the last two years, the price has remained at a steady $80.

When it comes to the world’s most sought-after Sauvignon, there’s not just one thing people are looking for. Some people are searching for French, others Kiwi. Some are searching for bargains, others the most expensive wines they can think of. From traditional to tongue-tingling modern styles, Savvy B really does offer it all.

$1 Margaret River Sauvignon / Semillon, Visit from Mel 

$1 Margaret River Sauvignon / Semillon

I never thought I would have to confess to anything along these lines, but while visiting our daughter in Sydney last week we actually drank a wine that she had only paid $1 for the bottle. To put as rosy a picture on this as is possible, it was an Australian dollar. Our daughter works for Woolworths and they have a staff store at their head office, so it was a staff discount, but still…….

As I wrote the last paragraph I thought to myself, what on earth’s name is the internet for, so I looked. The wine was a Cape Mentelle (Margaret River) Sauvignon / Semillon blend so I visited their website. It is advertised there for A$26. What a bargain, should have got a dozen.

Visit from Mel

Some of those who joined us more recently may not remember Mel Ingalls. Mel was a member of the Club for some time and a committee member with a number of those still on the committee now. He left to return to his native America. It was, therefore, quite an occasion that he was able to join us at the June tasting while he is spending a few weeks back in New Zealand. You are welcome Mel as always.

See you on Wednesday, with a lovely evening in prospect.

Cheers
Robin Semmens
Editor