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Wine News – Imbibe from NZ House & Garden April 2023
Sparkling and sweet wines such as champagne and late harvests – 6-10C
Mermaidary tackles the tricky topic of what wines to chill and by how much.
What temperature should you serve wine? The topic can be controversial. I have heard gasps of horror when pulling a bottle of chardonnay from the rack, opening and pouring it – bypassing the fridge. I prefer medium to full-bodied white wines at room temperature. And you can imagine the horror when I take a red wine from the fridge because I like reds slightly chilled, flying in the face of ‘the rules for how wine should be served.
The accepted serving temperatures are listed below, but I regularly flout those rules. I like my sparkling whites colder than 6C, which is a cardinal wine sin, but I find it gives the bubbles more vigour. I also enjoy reds when they are well below 13C, as it gives the wine more structure and definition.
In fact, in hotter climates such as in Australia, drinking red chilled is standard practice. Australian wine icon Taylors recently put a wine temperature sensor on its bottles which changes colour when the bottle reaches its optimum level of chill.
One place that always seems to get it wrong is your local bar or restaurant. Bar fridges are set to a standard temperature so juice, wine, beer and even milk are all stored in the same fridge at the same temperature. This means medium-bodied wines, in particular, can be served much too cold, which deadens the wonderful aromatics present in the wine. Red wines are invariably stored on a shelf in direct sunlight or near the warm kitchen. So, the best expression of your favourite wine might not be from your local eatery.
While there are guidelines, the perfect temperature is simply the one that you enjoy best. So open a bottle and you do you.
Agreed serving temperatures
Sparkling and sweet wines such as champagne and late harvests – 6-10C
Roses and light-bodied whites such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris – 8-10C
Medium full-bodied whites such as Chardonnay and Albarino – 10-13C
Light-bodied reds such as Pinot Noir – 10-13C
Medium to full-bodied reds such as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon – 10-13C
Wow, nine wines! This was an interesting evening full of updated information about the Esk Valley region and touching on areas of Portugal that most members present haven’t been to yet.
The variety of wines was great, beginning with Linden Sparkling Rose’ from Esk Valley, a blend of Merlot and Pinotage, a delicious start to the evening. The rest of the evening’s selection was:
Confidencial Reserva Rose –10-grape blend
2020 Casa Santos Lima Chardonnay
2022 Moutere Hills Riesling
2020Waipara Downs Pinot Noir
2020 Confidencial Tinto-Red – 10 grape blend
2019 Mosaico De Portugal
2017 Colossal Reserva Casa Santos Lima
Parcelas Portuguese Tawny Port
Most of the wines for the evening had received at least one gold medal in competitions, with some receiving ten gold medals.
Wednesday 14th June, 8 pm Start | Door Price: Members $12 / Guests $16
Askerne Estate Winery commenced in April 1993 when wine lovers John and Kathryn Loughlin purchased the original 11.6 hectares site in Te Mata Mangateretere Road. John and Kathryn had studied winemaking and viticulture in the previous years, with Kathryn, as the more diligent student, achieving the higher grades.
They called the property Askerne, being the olde English name of Kathryn’s birthplace, Askern, in Yorkshire, England.
John took up the role of Finance Manager of the large Richmond Limited meat company to provide the finance for the developing wine venture, and Kathryn assumed management of the vineyard operations.
Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in late 1993, Semillon and Riesling in 1994, Chardonnay in 1995 and Gewürztraminer in 1996. The first wines were made at the Waimarama Estate Winery (then owned by Dr John Loughlin, John’s father) in 1996. These wines were released under their initial white label with green trees.
2015 Rebecca, the second Loughlin daughter joined the Askerne team working in the cellar door.
In February 1997, the Askerne cellar door was opened to the public, and it also sold Waimarama Estate’s red wines, including the then-famous Waimarama Dessert Cabernet.
The 1997 vintage produced very fine wines from Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay which confirmed the potential of the site.
Askerne commenced exporting with wines from the 1997 vintage and in 1998 Dr John Loughlin sold Waimarama Estate Winery and from the 1999 vintage Askerne’s wines were made on site.
John last presented to the Club in February 2019 and his presentation was a delight, both because of his delivery and the wines themselves. This month’s tasting promises to be equally compelling as we get the chance to taste the following wines:
2022 Askerne Sérieux Rosé
2020 Askerne Sémillon
2022 Askerne Reserve Chardonnay
2021 Askerne Gewürztraminer
Askerne Merlot Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon
2021 Askerne Cabernet Franc
2019 Askerne Late Harvest Sémillon
This selection of Hawkes Bay wines promises a lot and I’m sure we will not be disappointed by their taste or quality. Make sure you are there to find out which will be your favourite.
It’s a steaming 26.5C in Hawke’s Bay as a retired King’s Counsel handpicks Chardonnay grapes in the wake of a cyclone.
He’s one of a team of volunteers who heeded the call from winemaker and Chardonnay specialist Tony Bish, who’s lost 75% of his intended intake to the rain and floods this season. “We’ve written off about 150 tonnes out of a 200-tonne intake,” Tony says on 9 March, about to drive his trailer of freshly picked fruit back to the winery. “It’s been a hard season.”
But despite knowing he won’t meet export orders, which take up half his production, Tony is heartened by the response from his local community, with people of all ages joining the harvest, alongside a team of seasonal workers from Vanuatu.
Tony Bish, Winemaker
The wine community has pitched in too, with Marlborough growers offering a lifeline for Tony’s Fat & Sassy consumer brand. On realising the extent of crop losses, Tony emailed his contacts in the region and revealed he was “desperate for Chardonnay”.
The response was good, both from those willing to part with their fruit, and others offering moral support. “It’s a case of Marlborough helping Hawke’s Bay,” he adds. “Basically the story will be Fat & Sassy goes to Marlborough. Thanks to our colleagues in Marlborough helping us through a cyclone, we’ll be able to keep continuity in the domestic market.”
In the meantime, he’s excited about the quality of fruit still hanging on the vine, to be picked at the end of March for his premium labels. “We are going to pick some really good fruit, so there’s a happy ending in sight. It’s going to deliver something delicious.”
This was an interesting evening full of updated information about the Esk Valley region and touching on areas of Portugal that most members present hadn’t been to, yet.
The variety of wines was great, beginning with Linden Sparkling Rosé from Esk Valley, a blend of Merlot and Pinotage, a delicious start to the evening. The rest of the evening’s selection was:
Confidencial Reserva Rosé – 10-grape blend
2020 Casa Santos Lima Chardonnay
2022 Moutere Hills Riesling
2020 Waipara Downs Pinot Noir
2020 Confidencial Tinto-Red – 10 grape blend
2019 Mosaico De Portugal
2017 Colossal Reserva Casa Santos Lima
Parcelas Portuguese Tawny Port
Most of the wines for the evening had received at least one gold medal in competitions, with some receiving 10 gold medals.
Quartz Reef winery operations manager Montse Mondaca helps with the first harvest of the season at the Bendigo vineyard yesterday. Image: Julie Asher
A classic Central Otago harvest season began yesterday with the first fruit plucked from the vines at Bendigo. Quartz Reef winemaker Rudi Bauer said the harvest looked set to be a good one but would have its challenges as unsettled weather during flowering in early December resulted in uneven fruit set.
Daily decisions would be made about which fruit to pick, but overall the average yield looked very good, Mr Bauer said.
Harvest had started three to four days earlier than last year, so it was a normal season. The spring had been very good, with good rainfall until January, when it became very dry.
There was around 50mm of very welcome rain last week.
A forecast of cool nights and warm days was exactly what the winemaker wanted for the cool climate wines such as the Pino’s, Chardonnay, sparkling and Gewurtztraminer wines that did so well in Central Otago.
He had plenty of labour available and there was no sign of infection in the grapes so it promised a good solid season.
Last year’s white wines had been very well received and the Pino’s would be bottled after harvest.
More winemakers in Central Otago were expanding into organic production.
While Central Otago wine made up about 3.5% of the country’s total production, their reputation and quality meant they were highly regarded.
“We punch way above our weight,” Mr Bauer said.
All the winegrowers in the region were mindful of the losses suffered by their North Island counterparts following Cyclone Gabrielle.
All were donating what they could to the Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne winegrowers associations.
It would be some time before the scale of damage could be assessed but it would be massive and include machinery destroyed by having silt through it as well as vines which could take years to replace.
If you drilled down from New Zealand through the earth’s centre, where would you come out, Iberia? If it were not in Spain, it would level with the wine heart of Portugal.
Therefore, there must be something special that links the viticulture and the wines of our two countries.
Victor from Confidant Wines will present a mix of special boutique wines from New Zealand, some wonderful new wines from Portugal, and several repeated favourites.
This is your chance to try some new varieties and vineyards and support one Hawkes Bay vineyard (with a great sparkling Rosé) that was impacted after the devastation of Cyclone Gabrielle. The evening will take a small journey from Hawkes Bay to Nelson to Waipara in North Canterbury; and then to Portugal with an array of blended wines and, to finish, a Tawny Port. Be prepared to be impressed.
We will see the influence of terroir in Waipara wines, the influence of climate on Nelson wine, what makes Hawkes Bay special, and some delicious red styles from award-winning Casa Santos Lima vineyard in Portugal. The Portuguese selection will focus on new vintages and some previous wines that were very popular and still available. Do you remember Waipara Pinot Blanc? Something new, something known, gold medals, new vintages, comparisons and varieties to experience. This array of wines has been specially selected we believe to suit the members’ preferences for this tasting.
In summary, we will kick off with a Linden (NZ) Sparkling Rosé, followed by a Portuguese Rosé and two classic NZ white wines, Riesling and a Viognier or Chardonnay. We will then compare the new award winning Portuguese Confident red and a blended Mosaico red with a NZ Pinot Noir. We will conclude with a delicious Tawny Port from the home of all great ports.
We look forward to enjoying these wines with you. Please remember your tasting glasses.
With most of the club familiar with Australian wines, but not necessarily Victoria wines, this was an interesting introduction for most of us.
Keith introduced firstly, Mount Langhi (Ghiran) is an extremely famous cool climate-based winery in the Grampian range of Northern Victoria, established 1969 by the Fratin Family.
Secondly, we were introduced to Yering Station is an acclaimed producer almost as famous for its cellar door and restaurant as their amazing Yarra Valley Wines. Originally the first grapes were planted in 1838 by the Ryrie brothers.
The styles included a Prosecco to start [yes it was sourced and made in Australia], as well as two each of Chardonnay, Pinot and Shiraz. That everyone present enjoyed Keith’s presentation and wines was reflected in the excellent orders received. Thanks again to Keith and EuroVintage for their continued support of our club.
UPDATE: We have just been advised that these are now in transit from the Auckland Warehouse, despite the logistical delays [weather issues etc.] and will be delivered to you, via Murray, either this weekend, or early next week.
Wednesday 8th February, 7.45 pm Door Price: Members $14 / Guests $18
Victoria’s wine regions. labelwines.com
There is much to admire and emulate in the wines of Australia. For many members such wines may well be amongst your favourites. Perhaps such wines are from South Australia, perhaps Western Australia, but for this tasting to kick the year off for the club we are highlighting Victoria.
For many wine enthusiasts the wines of this state fly under the radar. If so, you are missing a treat. On a much smaller scale than the neighbouring South Australian state, the wines of Victoria have their own charm, distinctiveness and award-winning status. And some plantings are indeed old vines.
As with NZ there are a number of different vineyard regions within the Victorian state and some well-known vineyards which we will explore under the guidance of Keith Tibble from EuroVintage, who is very well acquainted with these wines.
Across the state from the south (Mornington) to the central near Melbourne (Yarra Valley) to the interior (Grampians , Murray River) there is a diversity and quality that elicits awards and a dedicated following
Mount Langhi (Ghiran)
…is a highly famous cool climate-based winery in the Grampian range of Northern Victoria. Established in 1969 by the Fratin Family, the site had been planted (like Hawkes Bay’s Te Mata ) back in the late 1890s; after one poor and challenging year in 1980, the Fratins decided they needed a consultant and hired the noted winemaker Trevor Mast. Six years later, Trevor his wife and partner Ian Menzies purchased the varied blocks. They started to develop the concept of Cool Climate (Victorian) Shiraz, a personal vision of Trevor that has led Mount Langhi to be regarded as one of Australia’s greatest shiraz producers. We will taste two shiraz wines, the superb but great value Billi Billi and the superb ‘Mast’ awarded 96/100 in Decanter.
Yering Station
…is an acclaimed producer almost as famous for its cellar door and restaurant as their amazing Yarra Valley Wines. Originally the first grapes were planted in 1838 by the Ryrie brothers; this was Victoria’s first winery and was the largest Victorian vineyard right up to the 1980s. Purchased by the Rathbone Family in 1996, Yering Station is sister to Yarrabank, a sparkling producer jointly owned by a champagne House Devaux. However, Yering is famous for its Burgundy style wines – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – and we will taste the legendary reserve chardonnay along with two superb Pinots, the superb Yering station 2021 and the unique value Village 2021.
There was a good turnout for the evening, although numbers were down due to illness, and in one case, nearly the whole table was absent due to Covid. We hope everyone is feeling much better at this stage.
Wayne had organised this evening on his own and had a bit of a shortbread competition with his wife – not mentioning who won!
The first half of the evening was simply tasting some of the wines and discussing the different grapes and countries these came from.
The second half of the evening was a taste and tipple scenario. We had shortbread, strawberries, cheese & crackers, and Christmas cake to sample after we had had our first taste of each wine. This was to see if our taste buds registered any meaningful changes to the taste and texture of the wines.
The wines we sampled were:
First half
Lindauer Free ‘non-alcohol’ Brut was our surprise starter. It was made from Chardonnay and Pinot noir grapes and was poured blind. Whist some thought it was closer to a cider in taste and style, nobody guessed what this was correctly!
Tosti Prosecco DOC form the Piedmont region in Italy
Perelada Brut Reserva Carva NV –Spain
Morton Estate Premium Brut – NZ
Second half
Grant Burge Petite Bubbles Dry Sparkling – Australian
Louis Bouillot Perle De Vigne Cremant De Bourgogne – French
Two more mysteries to go with the Christmas Cake to finish off – these were also both poured blind:
Humans have made wine for about 7,000 years, and experts agree that until relatively recently, it may not have tasted perfect. For millennia wine has been the ultimate expression of agriculture. Still, once grapes are transported from the vineyard to the winery, it is up to the winemaker to apply their hand to create the best beverage possible. While cold fermentation is a relatively new technique introduced in the 1950s, many other practices are as old as winemaking. Many terms are casually tossed around by those in the know, so here is a quick explanation of some of the more common winemaking terms you may come across and how wine is fermented will affect the final product.
Cold Fermentation
Of course, wine is made by fermentation: Yeast converts grape sugar to alcohol, and the result is this glorious liquid we love. One of the byproducts of fermentation is heat, which, left unchecked, could cause temperatures to rise to the point that yeast dies and fermentation stops. Fermentation at higher temperatures can also create a wine with lighter aromatics, unpleasant flavours, and a lack of elegance or finesse. A colder, slower fermentation preserves aromatics, fruit flavours and colour. External cooling jackets or pipes filled with cold running water maintain temperatures within the tank, allowing the winemaker to control the fermentation speed.
Barrel Fermentation
Some wines, like the Malbec in Argentina, are fermented in concrete eggs. David Silverman/Getty Images
Wine may be fermented in various containers, including stainless steel tanks, concrete vats or “eggs,” fibreglass tanks, terra cotta amphorae, or wooden barrels or vats. While stainless steel, concrete and fibreglass are considered neutral and do not impart flavour or texture to the contents within, fermenting in a barrel adds flavour to the wood and a buttery or creamy texture. This method leads to a richer mouthfeel and may bring flavours of vanilla, baking spice, coconut or coffee. It can be used for white wines like Chardonnay or Verdejo and red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Nebbiolo or Tempranillo.
Yolanda García Viadero, proprietor and winemaker at Bodegas Valduero in Ribera del Duero, Spain, began using this technique 12 years ago with external rollers that rotate horizontal barrels during fermentation. She told Robb Report, “For fermentation, wood is interesting. The structure is improved, and all the grape characteristics are reinforced and amplified. But at the same time, the texture and flavour are softer.”
Malolactic Fermentation
Sometimes shortened to “malo” by winemakers, malolactic fermentation converts tart malic acid to more creamy or buttery lactic acid. This is easy to remember because “lactic” pertains to milk; a class of bacteria known as lactobacillus are responsible for the conversion. Technically it is not truly fermentation because yeast isn’t involved. It lowers acidity and raises pH, resulting in rounder, smoother or fuller wines. It can occur spontaneously during primary fermentation or after the first fermentation. Many red wines and some white wines, such as Chardonnay, Viognier or Soave, undergo malolactic conversion, which adds stability to wines but may decrease the sense of freshness.
At Bodegas José Pariente in Rueda, Spain, winemaker Martina Prieto Pariente uses malo in her Finca Las Comas wine, a single-vineyard, small batch Verdejo. She explained to Robb Report, “This vineyard tends to maintain a high acidity and therefore also a somewhat higher than normal malic acid content. The partial malolactic conversion in this wine allows us to soften the acidity and provide greater aromatic complexity due to the light notes of butter and cream, respecting the primary aromas as it is partial and not complete. This translates into a wine with more volume, silky texture and depth.”
On the Lees
Champagne has to spend at least a year on the lees, but this bottle spent nearly four decades.
Although the process sounds highly unattractive, ageing on the lees heightens many of the pleasant characteristics of wine’s aroma, flavour and texture. Admittedly, this step isn’t fermentation itself but using the byproduct of fermentation to influence the final product. Called sur lie in French and Sobre lias in Spanish, this is the practice of allowing the wine to remain in contact with dead or spent yeast cells. As fermentation occurs, sediment falls to the bottom of the tank or barrel. The first to sink is gross lees, consisting of dead yeast, grape skins and yeast cells—fine lees, which have a sleeker texture and settle to the bottom throughout the fermentation. Lees can be filtered out, but winemakers may also leave them in to provide more complexity to the finished wine.
This method is always used for Champagne; non-vintage Champagne must spend at least 12 months on the lees, while vintage Champagne must remain in contact with the lees for a minimum of three years. This can add aromas and flavours of almonds, hazelnuts, baking bread, brioche and toast—many other wines, whether white, red or rosé, are also aged in this way.
“The process of ageing Chardonnay on the lees adds complexity, both in the secondary aromas and flavours that it adds to the wines and what it delivers in texture,” Graham Weerts, winemaker for South Africa’s Capensis told Robb Report, “Chardonnay can be subtle in its primary fruit characters, but it’s one of the few white varieties that gains complexity through its evolution over time. The intent for Capensis has always been to produce wines that rival the best white wines in the world in terms of quality and longevity, and lees ageing is a fundamental part of the approach.”
French wine producer Edmond de Rothschild Heritage Wines has bought Central Otago vineyard Akarua Estate, which it hopes will eventually produce 60,000 bottles a year of premium organic pinot noir.
Bordeaux-based Edmond de Rothschild Heritage Wines received Overseas Investment Office approval to buy the 52-hectare estate, with 34.5ha of vines, in Central Otago’s Bannockburn, along with the Akarua Estate vineyard from New Zealand company the Skeggs Group.
Ariane de Rothschild, president of the Edmond de Rothschild Group, which also owns Marlborough vineyard Rimapere, said the region’s soil was world-famous for its exceptional growing conditions for pinot noir.
She said that the terroir, or environment, at Bannockburn was on par with the Burgundy region in Eastern France.
“The addition of our second New Zealand winery is part of our wider strategy to develop a portfolio of premium international wines from exceptional terroirs.
“Central Otago’s international reputation for pinot noir provides a unique opportunity for us to complete our range and move into the production of organic wines – one of the fastest growing categories,” she said.
Winemaker Ann Escalle, who was technical director at Rimapere before moving to Akarua Estate, said the soil had all the elements they were looking for, and the slope was gentle enough for the vines to be able to develop well.
Akarua Estate vineyard in Central Otago has been sold to Bordeaux-based Edmond de Rothschild Heritage Wines.
The region’s climate was known for its hot and cold extremes, but the site was not too harsh. At the same time, it was dry and windy enough to keep diseases away.
“We think that what we have here at Akarua is really top potential, and we can bring it to the world. We would like to produce some of the best pinot noirs in the world because it’s possible,” she said.
The vineyard, which produced about 80% pinot noir along with small amounts of chardonnay and riesling, was not organic yet, but work was starting on converting it immediately.
When fully converted and organically certified, the vineyard would produce more than 60,000 bottles of organic wines annually for the international and domestic markets.
The soil had all the elements required, and the slope was gentle enough for the vines to be able to develop well, said Ann Escalle.
The wines would continue to be produced under the Akarua brand. The Akarua Estate vineyard was founded in 1996 by former Dunedin mayor Sir Clifford Skeggs.
Skeggs Group managing director David Skeggs said the new owners had significant global influence and networks and would bring new opportunities for the Central Otago wine industry.
The Skeggs Group would continue to produce its Rua brand from its 90 hectares of established vineyards in the Bannockburn and Pisa sub-regions.
The nine vineyards owned by Edmond de Rothschild Heritage in France, Spain, South Africa, Argentina and New Zealand produced 3.5 million bottles of wine a year.
