We started the evening with a French Chateau Laubespin Rosé. Lucus’ presentation was lively with a sprinkling of history and news of the different areas and permitted grape varieties grown in each place, as he took us through an evening of Italian and Spanish wines.
The evening was well attended with 37 attendees, and the grape varieties were an interesting mix, as were the mixes of the different/familiar varieties.
It certainly made for an entertaining evening, especially the unexpected introduction to a Balsamic at supper time. This was a ground level product, and one that the Italians used as a digestive, by having a teaspoonful after their meal!. It was certainly NOT the quality of product NZers are familiar with. It was so much better with a depth of sweetness akin to that of date, rather than sugar, sweetness and was thick and creamy.
An evening of superb Italian and Spanish wines.
A reminder of the tastings we had during the evening:
PLUS, a special treat, a Balsamic aged in French oak for 30-years!
This tasting was clearly enjoyed, with the different grape varieties and areas they are grown in sparking conversations all evening. Del Munto received 17 orders from members which reflected just how much they enjoyed the evening.
It’s all very well making great Pinot, but what if nobody knows that is what you do?
On day three of the New Zealand Pinot Noir 2025 conference held in Christchurch, Wine-Searcher’s wine director David Allen took to the stage to talk everything data, particularly with respects to the grape’s worldwide reach and the supply and demand within key markets – and particularly how New Zealand Pinot was faring.
Using Wine-Searcher’s vast database of offers and price history broken down by both product, grape and region, Allen was able to extract where New Zealand Pinot Noir is now, with a direct comparison to where it stood eight years ago at the last New Zealand Pinot Noir conference in 2017.
However, before getting to the nitty gritty of New Zealand Pinot Noir, Allen produced some facts to give a general overview of where Wine-Searcher was in its global capture of wine and spirits data.
Today there are currently 14.7 million live offers for wines and spirits listed on Wine-Searcher – compared to the 6.7 million eight years ago. This is partly down to there simply being more products on the market; however, Allen noted, it is also down to Wine-Searcher’s greater ability to collect offers. Technology has simply gotten better.
Making up these 14.7 million offers are more than 850,000 products being listed by 37,500 merchants and auctions across 130 markets.
Every month, Wine-Searcher receives roughly 5 million unique users trawling the site for wine.
How many of those unique users are looking for Pinot Noir? Allen was happy to provide the answers.
In 2016, there were 12.8 million searches for Pinot Noir wines within 122 million wine searches worldwide – making up a total of 10.5 percent.
In 2024, there were 27.2 million searches for Pinot Noir within 176 million wine searches worldwide, accounting for 15.5 percent. A not insignificant increase, with the majority concentrated in the US.
When it comes to the number of offers for Pinot Noir listed on Wine-Searcher, the numbers tell more of the same story.
Back on 15 December 2016, there were 0.5 million offers for Pinot Noir Wine within the 5 million offers for wine worldwide, with tiny dark grape accounting for 9.5 percent of all offers.
Nine years later on 15 December 2024, there were 1.1 million offers for Pinot Noir wines within 10 million offers for wine worldwide, making up 11.5 percent.
Both sets of figures show an increase in both interest and offers for the grape variety, with it claiming an ever larger market share as the years rolled on by.
Conversely, during the same time frame, other grape varieties shuffled. Big red Bordeaux blends, for example, slipped from claiming 22.3 percent of searches back in 2016, to 17.4 percent in 2024.
Chardonnay, however, that other great Burgundian variety, claimed 6 percent of searches back in 2016, but snaffled 10.3 percent in 2024, reflecting the often commented-on rise of Burgundy while Bordeaux continues to flail.
However, regarding those 2024 search stats Pinot Noir may be on the rise, but it won’t be evenly across the globe, so where are its main fan clubs?
Well, as Allen presented, France – naturally – accounted for the majority of searches, claiming 22.5 percent, while Hong Kong came in at a close second with 21.4 percent. China sat at 20.8 percent, while the UK and New Zealand sat at 15.5 percent and 15.3 percent respectively, and the US and Australia claimed 13 percent each.
Please bear in mind, the above facts and figures are all still pertain to any Pinot Noir from anywhere in the world.
Back to NZ
Allen then switched his focus firmly to New Zealand and where its Pinot Noir stood in the global market. When it comes to the 2024 searches for New Zealand wines broken down by variety, 35 percent unsurprisingly went to Kiwi stalwart Sauvignon Blanc, while Pinot Noir came in at a close second with 32.4 percent.
However, Sauvignon Blanc has dropped off from its giddy 45 percent back in 2016, while Pinot Noir has risen, albeit marginally. Chardonnay, however, claiming 12.6 percent, has also seen a slow but steady rise.
When it comes to offers, however, the figures fall sharply out of sync. The 2024 figures show 45.1 percent offers for New Zealand wine are for its Sauvignon Blanc, with just 20.7 percent for Pinot Noir, and 9.4 percent for Chardonnay. While Sauvignon Blanc has seen its offers increase from 2016’s 39 percent, Pinot Noir has seen it fall from 24 percent – despite the increase in interest – while Chardonnay has flat-lined.
Where these offers have been made has also changed dramatically. Back in 2016, the USA had the most offers at 28.4 percent, with New Zealand second with 22.4 percent, while the UK claimed 16.6 percent and Australia 10.5 percent.
In 2024, these figures have seen a dramatic shift with the USA now offering a whopping 44 percent and New Zealand increasing slightly to 27.7 percent. However, both the UK and Australia had dropped to 6.1 percent and 6.5 percent respectively. This reflected a comment made by Stephen Wong MW who noted that UK restaurant lists were largely failing to feature New Zealand wines.
Overall, however, since 15 Dec 2016 when there were 83K offers for New Zealand wine, making up 1.6 percent of the 5 million offers for wine worldwide, there has – as of 15 Dec 2024 – been an increase to 175K offers of New Zealand wine within 10M offers for wine worldwide, claiming 1.8 percent, showing slow but steady growth.
As Allen noted, there were a few key takeaways – chiefly the rise of the Burgundian varietals, and how that places New Zealand in good stead. As well as the opportunity to target both the lower pricing tiers as well as the upper, where the big Napa giants lurk.
Finally, a message that has been drummed in over the course of the past three days by various speakers – but one worth listening to. The world is keen, ready and waiting but ever so slightly deaf, and New Zealand Pinot Noir just needs to raise its voice.
February 2025 Wednesday 12th February, 8 pm start Door Price: Members $16 / Guests $20 It’s not just a drink in a glass; it’s the whole story behind it—the people, culture and place.
This evening is a taste of Italy and Spain from Del Mundo Presented by Lucas Monge. Established in Wellington, New Zealand, Lucas Monge, Founder of ‘Del Mundo’, imports and distributes sought-after traditional wine varieties from producers who believe wine is not just a drink in a glass but the whole story behind it; people, culture and place, producers that have proven passion for wine craftsmanship, land and sustainability.
The proposed wines available to purchase from Lucas may include the following:
2023 Rose Laubespin – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (Medoc, France)
Del Mundo is New Zealand’s official partner and home of Donnafugata, Fabiano, Manzanos, Siglo, Berceo, Voche, Montelvini, Guizzo, Martoccia di Brunelli Luca, Chateau Carmenere Richard – Barraud and Italian liquor, Meletti. Though the wines are yet to be decided upon, we thought you may like to get to practise some of the terms that are involved in Italian and Spanish wines:
Imbottigliato (im-boh-tee-l’yah’-toe)
Italian for “bottled.” “Imbottigliato all’origine” is the term for estate bottled.
Sassicaia (sah-see-cah’-yah)
A Cabernet Sauvignon-based red wine from the coast of the Tuscany region in Italy. The wine is very consciously based on the wines of the Haut-Medoc in Bordeaux, France, and indeed even the grape cuttings originate from there. This wine forever changed the landscape of Italian wines. Even though it had no official classification, it was one of the most expensive and critically acclaimed wines of Italy. It was at the forefront of a class of wines that have been called “Super Tuscans” each based on Cabernet Sauvignon, even though, at the time, Cab was not an allowed grape anywhere in the Tuscany region.
Because of the great popularity of these wines a new DOC designation was created in the region of Bolgheri for these wines, and a DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia was created for this wine alone.
Secco (seck’-o)
The Italian term for “dry” (meaning a wine without any residual sugar).
Soave (s’wah’-veh)
The best known Italian white wine, it comes from the Verona region in the northeastern portion of the country. Made from the Garganega grape, with the ubiquitous Trebbiano sometimes used in the blend.
Sherry (share-ee)
A fortified wine made in the Sherry district in southern Spain around the city of Jerez de la Frontera. The wine is made primarily from the grape Palomino. The grapes are brought into the winery and pressed. The first pressed juice (that of the highest quality) is reserved to make the “fino” styles.
Flor (flore)
A special type of yeast found on wine. In the Sherry district of Spain, the flor yeast help to make the finest Sherries. On other wines it is a pest and must be controlled. It is also the Spanish word for flower.
Macebo (mah-cah-beh’-oh)
The principal white wine grape of the Spanish Rioja region where it is known locally as Viura. Simple and crisp with a floral quality, this grape helped revolutionize the white wines of the Rijoa region by replacing the easily oxidized Malvasia grape.
Wednesday 13th November, 8 pm Start Door Price: Members $20 / Guests $25
Discover the Art of Sparkling Wines: A Special Wine Tasting Event
EURO-FIZZ
Join us for an exquisite journey through some of the finest sparkling wines from around the world. Whether you are a seasoned connoisseur or a novice eager to explore, this curated selection promises to delight your palate and expand your appreciation for bubbly wines.
The Club can provide a flute for members, stressing one per member, but please feel free to bring your own if you wish for the evening.
Here’s what’s on our tasting list
Hunters Offshoot Pet-Nat Origin: Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
We kick off this sparkling adventure with the charming Hunters Offshoot Pet-Nat. Sourced from the picturesque Waihopai Valley, this wine is a true artisanal creation. With its natural fermentation process, it captures the essence of the lush Marlborough terroir. Expect vibrant bursts of fruit and a refreshing, slightly effervescent profile that sets the tone for an exciting tasting experience.
Louis Perdier Brut Excellence Origin: Languedoc, France
Next, we venture to the sun-kissed vineyards of Languedoc for the Louis Perdier Brut Excellence. Known for its elegant balance of fruit-forward flavours and crisp acidity, this Champagne-style sparkling wine is predominantly composed of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. Its fine bubbles and hints of green apple and brioche make it a delightful choice for those who appreciate the classically refined sparkling wines of France.
Tempus Two Prosecco Origin: King Valley, NSW, Australia
From the King Valley in New South Wales, we bring you the Tempus Two Prosecco, crafted from the Glera grape. This refreshing sparkling wine charms with its light, fruity notes of pear and citrus, accompanied by a delicate floral aroma. A perfect aperitif, it pairs beautifully with antipasti or can be enjoyed on its own for a sunny afternoon.
Gancia Prosecco Origin: Trentino, Italy
We cross the globe to Italy’s Trentino region to sample the renowned Gancia Prosecco. Known for its crispness and elegance, Gancia Prosecco features a light, frothy mouthfeel with an array of flavour notes from ripe peaches to refreshing herbs. This wine is a testament to timeless Italian tradition in sparkling wine production—perfect for any celebration.
Maude Methode Traditionale NV Origin: Central Otago, New Zealand
Experience the careful craftsmanship of Maude Methode Traditionale NV from Central Otago, an area celebrated for its unique climate and soil, ideal for high-quality wine production. This traditional method sparkling wine offers complex layers of flavour, featuring stone fruits, nutty undertones, and a long, creamy finish, making it a standout selection for any true wine lover.
Champagne Lanvin Origin: Epernay, France
No sparkling wine tasting would be complete without the iconic Champagne. We proudly present Champagne Lanvin from the heart of Epernay. This exquisite bubbly epitomizes the elegance of true Champagne, characterised by fine bubbles, balanced acidity, and flavours that blend ripe fruit, floral notes, and a touch of minerality, making it a luxurious choice for any occasion.
Veuve du Vernay Brut Rose Origin: France
We conclude our tasting with the beautifully vibrant Veuve du Vernay Brut Rosé. This charming French sparkling wine features a delightful pink hue and lively notes of red berries, perfect for those looking for something fruity yet refreshing. The appealing aroma and taste will leave a lasting impression, making it an excellent way to end the tasting.
We look forward to seeing you Wednesday 13th November for a memorable evening.
This was a superb evening featuring worldwide bubbles.
The special food matched some of the wines and was well thought out and tasty. It is always interesting to see what change the food makes to the wine you drink.
This has left everyone with some thoughtfully selected wines to source for Christmas celebrations.
As a reminder of what to put on your shopping list, the wines we tasted were:
De Bortolli Family Selection Sparkling Brut NV – Australia
Graham Norton Prosecco D.O.C. – Italy
Perelada Brut Reserva Spanish Cava – Spain
Pongracz Sparkling Brut – South Africa
Hunter MiruMiru Marlborough Methode Traditionelle Brut – New Zealand
Aimery Grande Cuvee 1531 Cremant De Limouix Rose NV – France
The Black Chook Sparkling Shiraz NV – Australia
Pegasus Bay Encore Noble Riesling 2007 AND 2017 – New Zealand
It was an interesting and fun evening for everyone, thanks to Wayne, Murray, Terry Gayl, and everyone else who helped with the food on the evening.
French Wine Merchants, Established 1999 Dedicated to bringing the best of French wine and food to New Zealand
Presented by Scott Hurrell, Wednesday 11th October, 8 pm Start
Door Price: Members $18 / Guests $22
For our newer members, Maison Vauron is a French Wine Merchant company set up in Auckland in 1999 to bring the best of French wine and food to New Zealand. They have presented their wines to our club several times previously and we are very lucky to have them do so again.
Pierre Vauron’s original business card in 1918. ‘A la grappe dorée’ (‘The golden bunch’) was the name of the business then, established and based in the town of St Etienne (South West of Lyon) since 1879. The card mentions that Pierre was specialising in white wine from all regions and red wines from the Beaujolais.
The company resulted from a visit to NZ in 1991 by Jean-Christophe Poizat who wanted to learn more about NZ wines. Jean-Christophe is the great-great-grandson of Antoine Vauron who in 1879 set up a wine merchant business in Saint Etienne, 50kms southwest of Lyon, the city scheduled to host the All Blacks last 2 pool games in the 2023 RWC.
Six months after arriving JC [as he is often called] would meet his future wife and then some years later, his business partners, Peter & Scott. The importance of family is central to Maison Vauron’s operation, with siblings of JC and Peter involved in the business, as are the partners of JC and Scott. Every year Maison Vauron likes to return to France to taste the wines and try the cheeses, meet their producers and most importantly, make new discoveries. This year, wine mentors, Jean-Christophe and Will are also attending the Rugby World Cup, hosted by France.
As a result of their absence, Scott [responsible for trade sales] has agreed to step up to the batting plate and will lead us through a tour of French vineyards that will reflect various grapes and wine styles.
Scott is well qualified to present these wines, as he previously trained for 11 years as a winemaker in the Bordeaux area of France.
France is about to destroy enough wine to fill more than 100 Olympic-size swimming pools. And it’s going to cost the nation about US$216 million (NZ$365m).
Ruining so much wine may sound ludicrous, but there’s a straightforward economic reason this is happening: Making wine is getting more expensive due in part to recent world events, and people are drinking less of it. That’s left some producers with a surplus that they can’t price low enough to make a profit. Now, some of France’s most famous wine-producing regions, like Bordeaux, are struggling.
In June, the European Union initially gave France about US$172m to destroy nearly 80 million gallons of wine, and the French government announced additional funds this week. Producers will use the funds to distil their wine into pure alcohol to be used for other products, like cleaning supplies or perfume.
Agriculture Minister Marc Fesneau told reporters that the money was “aimed at stopping prices collapsing and so that winemakers can find sources of revenue again”, according to Agence France-Presse.
The decline in wine consumption is not new, according to Olivier Gergaud, a professor of economics at France’s Kedge Business School who researches food and wine.
Wine consumption in France has been plummeting since its peak in 1926, when the average French citizen drank about 136 litres per year. Today, that number is closer to 40 litres, The Washington Post previously reported. Consumers are also inundated with beverage choices now, and they’re choosing wine less and less.
“We have an underlying issue of, ‘How do we better engage with the consumer and make wine more relevant, make wine a relevant choice for consumers that have a lot of options?'” said Stephen Rannekleiv, the global sector strategist for beverages at Rabobank, a Dutch financial firm specialising in agribusiness.
As consumption has taken a nosedive, production costs have increased and inflation has tightened budgets around the world. That’s especially true since the Covid-19 pandemic, which shuttered bars, restaurants and wineries, driving up prices. The war in Ukraine also influenced the industry by disrupting shipments of products essential to winemaking, like fertiliser and bottles. And on top of the pandemic and war, climate change is forcing growers to adapt to new harvest schedules and reckon with more extreme weather.
Costs are so high and demand is so low that some producers can’t turn a profit.
While this year’s subsidy is getting a lot of attention, the French government intervention is not a new phenomenon, according to Elizabeth Carter, a professor of political science at the University of New Hampshire who has studied the French wine market.
“I am not vaguely at all surprised that France is looking to destroy surplus and prop up prices by limiting quantity, because this is something that they’ve actually been struggling with since the 19th century, wine overproduction,” Carter said.
She said there’s been an internal push-and-pull in France for decades as producers grapple with what quantity of grapes to grow and how much wine is too much. The nation has long regulated the wine market intensely, in some cases telling producers how many vines they can grow and how far apart they have to be, in an effort to prevent the market from being flooded.
So while this buyback program isn’t totally new, Gergaud said, he hopes the industry takes this moment to consider longer-term solutions.
“We need to think in terms of, you know, long-run adaptation to these changing conditions,” he said. “We need to help this market to transition to a better future, maybe with more wines that would respect the environment. Adaptation to climate change is a real challenge.”
And regardless of its current woes, wine is too strong a part of France’s identity for the market to go anywhere. It’s certainly in the government’s best interest to keep the industry happy: French President Emmanuel Macron has even said that a meal without wine “is a bit sad”.
MERMAIDMARY lauds the delights of lesser-known white wine variety chenin blanc.
Like many of the grape varieties we know and love, chenin blanc originates in France, hailing from the Loire Valley. And like other European wine varieties, chenin has found its spiritual home in the New World wine regions – South Africa produces one-fifth of the world’s chenin, twice as much as in its native France. Here in New Zealand, just a few passionate producers are devoted to this lesser-known white wine.
You can describe most New Zealand wines in a few words that refers to their signature style. For example, sauvignon blanc is zesty and vibrant, chardonnay is buttery and oaky and so on. Chenin blanc, however, is hard to narrow down due to its remarkable versatility.
On the vine the chenin grape is akin to chardonnay with high acid and a neutral palate. As a result of this neutrality the grape is influenced by the terroir in which it is grown as well as winemaking decisions. In the glass, chenin comes in a range of guises, from the perfect base wine for crisp dry sparkling wines to lusciously sweet dessert wines – and everything in between. There truly is a chenin blanc for every wine lover.
Chenin is best served chilled, but not cold, so as to preserve its complex aromatics and rich flavours – about half an hour in the fridge will suffice. Chenin is also a fantastic food wine, complementing a range of different cuisines. Off-dry examples with a hint of sweetness are particularly sublime with Southeast Asian cuisine.
Although delicious young, chenin has an incredible ability to age. A dry chenin could hold its own in the bottle for 10 years, with sweeter examples cellaring beautifully for decades.
Essentially, you can drink chenin in any style, at any age with any food, so there’s no excuse not to try one.
There was a good turnout for the evening, although numbers were down due to illness, and in one case, nearly the whole table was absent due to Covid. We hope everyone is feeling much better at this stage.
Wayne had organised this evening on his own and had a bit of a shortbread competition with his wife – not mentioning who won!
The first half of the evening was simply tasting some of the wines and discussing the different grapes and countries these came from.
The second half of the evening was a taste and tipple scenario. We had shortbread, strawberries, cheese & crackers, and Christmas cake to sample after we had had our first taste of each wine. This was to see if our taste buds registered any meaningful changes to the taste and texture of the wines.
The wines we sampled were:
First half
Lindauer Free ‘non-alcohol’ Brut was our surprise starter. It was made from Chardonnay and Pinot noir grapes and was poured blind. Whist some thought it was closer to a cider in taste and style, nobody guessed what this was correctly!
Tosti Prosecco DOC form the Piedmont region in Italy
Perelada Brut Reserva Carva NV –Spain
Morton Estate Premium Brut – NZ
Second half
Grant Burge Petite Bubbles Dry Sparkling – Australian
Louis Bouillot Perle De Vigne Cremant De Bourgogne – French
Two more mysteries to go with the Christmas Cake to finish off – these were also both poured blind:
The Jura is a wine-growing region in Eastern France, bordering Switzerland. It sits just to the east of Burgundy but feels a world apart in many ways.
Burgundy is arguably the epicentre of the “fine wine” world (although Bordeaux may have something to say about this), with a long history of monastic and aristocratic estates, tiny plots of globally treasured terroir, and today, massively inflated prices.
The Jura is historically associated with its agricultural traditions of the collective production of Comte cheese, its obscure oxidised wines matured under a veil of yeast and left in barrels for literally years (much like a very cold climate dry sherry), and perhaps for its particular mountain-country style moonshine.
Or, just as likely, it was the admittedly very picturesque backcountry region you passed through on your way to skiing in the Alps. Until 20 years ago, it would be fair to say that most people in France, let alone the rest of the world, barely thought of this quiet, seemingly isolated region as much more than an oddity of the wine world.
But after a week spent tasting the region’s wines and visiting its winemakers, the transformation is startling. Both in terms of the wines being made here and, even more so, the wine world’s perception of the region.
I spent the first two days of my stay at Le Nez dans le Vert (the name translates literally as Nose in the Green, but is a play on Nose in the Glass, with a wink to organics), a wine fair featuring a line-up of many of the best organic wine producers of the region.
Since all of the stars of the region farm organically, that means, in practical terms, that is really a collection of simply the region’s best wines.
This is part of the region’s transformation and the attention it is now receiving. Small, determined, and very hands-on family-run estates committed to laborious viticulture, have shone a spotlight on the incredible potential of the region’s unique soils and its cold climate to produce astounding and nuanced wines.
NACHO DOMÃNGUEZ ARGENTA/UNSPLASH “After a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.”
While this is also true of changes in many grape-growing regions over the last couple of decades, the underlying factor in the Jura is they are exceptionally blessed in terms of “terroir”, and much of its potential is yet to be discovered.
When I first attended Le Nez dans le Vert around a decade ago, the wines were already great, but as a buyer, you always felt you could largely give or take what you wanted. This time, as I visited winemakers, I met buyers, journalists and wine fans from Munich, Amsterdam, Rome, London, New York, Tokyo and Seoul.
The global thirst for Jura wines is seemingly unquenchable. Somewhat victims of their own success, many of the winemakers at the tasting spent much of their time apologetically explaining why they couldn’t sell wine to new clients. Demand now greatly outruns supply.
I’m pretty sceptical about hype in the wine world; for whatever reason, it’s a business that seems to invite hyperbole, but after a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.
And there’s plenty to say they are going to get even better. I’ve met many exciting, driven young winemakers making their first wines for every “star” of the region whose wines and vineyards I was looking forward to visiting before I got here.
Some locals and others from all corners of the globe came to the region to work for and learn from the trailblazing generation before them, who are now putting down roots in the Juracian soil and pushing even further forward.
Much like its wines, the region is charged with energy and life today. As much as there are many reasons for optimism for the region’s future, especially if, like me, you find yourself seduced by its wines, there are twin menaces on the horizon.
The first is the effect of climate change. In one sense, the general warming of the planet is something that has driven interest in traditionally cooler regions like the mountainous Jura. But with it, global warming has also brought unpredictable and dramatic weather events. The 2021 vintage in Jura was hit with a double blow of heavy frosts in early spring, killing off much of the early season growth, and then weeks of rain throughout the summer, creating significant problems with mildew and odium.
BIG DODZY/UNSPLASH “After a week there, I’m convinced the wines of this region are among the best being made anywhere.” In New Zealand, we’re lucky to have a few key importers bringing in some of the best producers from the Jura.
Winemakers have recounted losses of production of up to 85%. The financial pressure that creates is very difficult to bear for a region based on small family-run farms. Similar climatic events have menaced several of the last decade’s harvests.
The cruel irony is that just as the hard-earned attention of the wine world has turned to Jura, the hard-working winemakers have nowhere near enough wine to satisfy that demand and finally see financial returns on years of commitment and investment.
Although it was alarming to see up close, I was aware of the problems with yield from conversations with friends and winemakers before my trip. What I hadn’t expected was the effect of the global wine market on the region, or more specifically, on the access of the region’s wines to wine lovers.
I encountered many stories of Jura wine bottles 10-15 years ago that was easily accessible to anyone but are now being traded on grey markets at prices in excess of 1000 euros a bottle. Speculation is a menace for genuinely interested consumers and winemakers who are still selling their wine for more or less the same low prices as they have for years in the hope their wines end up in the glasses of enthusiastic wine lovers.
As small artisan producers are struggling to keep going in the face of diminished yields, speculators are making fortunes and inflating the market beyond the reach of most. It seems anathema to the spirit of this wild, strange and beautiful region. And again, I’m reminded that Burgundy is so close by.
In New Zealand, we’re lucky to have a few key importers bringing in some of the best producers from the Jura. As befits this off-centre region, it’s tricky to recommend specific wines, as availability is complicated. Best try tracking these wines down either directly through their importers or at one of the following switched-on wine bars or restaurants.
In Auckland, try out Star Superette or their affiliated restaurant Bar Celeste, both on Karangahape Rd, or take a trip to Cave a Vin on the North Shore. In Wellington, the restaurant Highwater or wine bar Puffin are good ports of call if you want an introduction to Jura wine. Gatherings in Christchurch are a good starting point for those curious about Jura wines in the South Island.
Maison Vauron is the New Zealand importer of cult southern Jura winemaker J-F Ganevat and also of the trailblazing Domaine Tissot, who makes stellar oxidative wines. Domaine du Pelican is the Jura project of the esteemed Burgundy producer Guillaume d’Angerville, based on their purchase of the estate of the “Pope of the Jura” Jacques Puffeney. In New Zealand, their wines are imported by Peter Maude Fine Wines.
Domaine Bottes Rouges are one of the many new ambitious producers of the region. Their wines are imported to New Zealand by Wine Diamonds.
Contact any of the above to find out what Jura gems are available and where to find them.
Plus, a handy guide for deciphering your methodes from your Champagnes.
Photo / Babiche Martens
If the bubbles that have dominated most thoughts of late are the ones we’ve been living in, there’s hopefully something we can toast, even if it’s just the passing of 2021.
There’s good news on the fizz front, as there has never been a more delicious and diverse array of sparkling wines to enjoy in Aotearoa.
Here’s a selection of the best from my blind tasting of bottles from across the world. Their corks are definitely worth popping, to cheer the spirits if our parties must be virtual, or celebrate with on the return to fully social occasions.
STYLE GUIDE: WHAT’S IN A STYLE? Sparkling wines are made in a wide variety of ways that dictate their flavour, quality and price. It can be confusing, so here’s a rough guide to styles and terms you might see on a bottle that suggest the kind of wine you might find within.
Traditional Method Most of the highest quality sparkling wines, including Champagne and cava, are made by the traditional method, also known as methode traditionnelle. It’s an elaborate system that adds to the cost of the wine, but is widely regarded to create the most complex flavours and finest mousse (bubbles).
A second bubble-inducing fermentation is triggered in the bottle, followed by a period when the wine remains in contact with its yeasts. These impart complex bready and nutty flavours to the wine depending on how long it remains on these yeast “lees”.
The yeasts are then removed by a lengthy process of “riddling” that gradually shifts the yeast into the neck of the bottle, which is then frozen. The frozen plugs of yeast are removed, the bottle topped up and then re-stoppered in the wine’s “disgorgement”.
Some examples state a disgorging date, which provides an idea of a wine’s maturity — recently disgorged can mean fresher flavours, and older more toasty notes.
Bottle Fermented (Transfer Method) If it’s traditional method, most wineries trumpet this. So if you see “bottle fermented” on a label, this suggests the wine has likely been made by the slightly simpler transfer method. Sparkling wines made in this manner can still be very good, but are cheaper to produce than the traditional method. This is basically identical to the traditional method up to the point of riddling, when the bottles are instead disgorged into pressurised tanks, where they’re filtered. They’re then re-bottled in a new bottle.
Tank Fermented Less likely to appear on a label, but influencing the final flavour, is the Tank Method. Also known as the charmat or Martinotti methods, or cuve close. The wine’s second fermentation takes place in a pressurised tank rather than a bottle, and the final fizz bottled under pressure. You don’t get the yeasty character of bottle-fermented methods, but this is often preferable for more aromatic grapes and fresher styles, such as the prosecco that’s made this way.
Methode Ancestral (Pet-Nat) Undergoing a revival currently is the methode ancestral, responsible for the petillant maturels (pet-nats) that have burst onto the natural wine scene in particular. Likely the oldest way of making sparkling wine, the wine is bottled while still undergoing its first fermentation. This finishes in-bottle, producing its effervescence.
Some winemakers choose to leave the yeast in the bottle, leading to a cloudy appearance and the possibility of drinking a bottle at different stages on its path to dryness. Others filter or disgorge and rebottle for a clearer and more consistent end product.
Champagne (NV and Vintage) Champagne can only come from the eponymous region in north-eastern France. Its name, synonymous with luxury and celebration, is protected in law and cannot be borrowed by wines from elsewhere. Its wines have to adhere to strict criteria, which includes bottle aging of 15 months for non-vintage wines (NV) and three years for vintage.
Its chilly climate makes it a challenge to ripen grapes, which has led to the practice of blending wines from multiple vintages, with vintage wines being made with only the best grapes in the best years.
The practice of making and labelling sparkling wines as “NV” has been adopted beyond Champagne and tends to suggest the tier below a winery’s more premium “vintage” release.
Styles and Sweetness Various terms originating in Champagne indicate the grapes used, and consequently suggest the style of a sparkling wine. Blanc de Blancs is made from 100 per cent chardonnay, which tend to be lighter and racier. Blanc de Noirs is a white sparkling wine made from just black grapes, which tend to be fuller bodied.
There are also descriptors highlighting levels of sweetness. The most common is Brut for dry to off-dry, with the likes of Demi-Sec, meaning sweet and Doux, lusciously sweet.
A growing movement towards near bone-dry styles means seeing more bottles sporting terms such as Ultra Brut, Extra Brut, Brut Nature and Zero Dosage, which signal the driest of the dry.
Detergent is the enemy of effervescence, so always rinse your sparkling glasses in warm water to get rid of any residue. Photo / Getty Images
WHAT’S IN A GLASS?
Wisdom on what makes the best glass from which to drink sparkling wine has shifted over the years. Certainly, the wide-rimmed shallow coupe popular in the early 20th century has fallen out of favour, for good reason.
These may work to some extent for softer, sweeter styles, but the wine’s large surface area in these means bubbles swiftly dissipate and they go flat quicker. The narrow shape of the iconic flute fares far better for retaining effervescence, but also suppresses aromas.
Current thinking on the foremost stemware for fizz, particularly the more complex traditional method wines, is a tulip-shaped glass with a wider middle and a narrow top. Similar to a white wine glass, it provides a slightly larger wine surface area than the flute and has a shape and greater space above the wine conducive to funnelling aromas up beyond its rim.
It’s also supported by findings of the rigorous research currently being conducted on bubble behaviour, by the likes of Champagne physicist Dr Gerard Liger-Belair at the University of Reims in Champagne.
The Comite Champagne, which represents independent Champagne producers, now officially recommends a tulip-shaped glass in which to enjoy its members’ wines. Something like Riedel’s egg-shaped Veritas Champagne Wine Glass fits the bill ($113 for 2 stems from Kitchenware.nz). However, the flute still works fine for simpler fruit-driven styles, such as prosecco.
You can enjoy fizz from a standard white wine glass. However, it’s still optimal to use a glass that’s been designed for sparkling wine as this will contain a “sparkling point”. Bubbles attract and carry aromatic compounds to the surface of the wine and need somewhere to start.
In sparkling glasses they’re directed from a single point etched on the bottom of their bowl, rather than forming randomly off the likes of fibres left in a glass from tea towels.
Whatever glass you choose, there are further ways to ensure you maximise your bubble count. Detergent is the enemy of effervescence, so always rinse your sparkling glasses in warm water to get rid of any residue. If you dry them manually, make sure it’s with a lint-free cloth to avoid unruly effervescence!
FRANCE’S FINEST
THE BEST SPARKLING WINES OF THE SEASON: FRANCE’S FINEST
1. Taittinger Millesime Brut Champagne 2014, $125 This Grand Cru-dominant blend is made only in the best vintages and aged five years on its lees to gain added complexity. The result is a Champagne with great intensity and finesse, with elegant and crisp notes of red apple and citrus, hints of apricot, mineral and blossom, over a subtle hazelnut base. Stockists: Countdown; Glengarry; Vineonline; Fine Wine Delivery; Vintners.nz
2. Paul Launois Monochrome #1 Grand Cru Extra Brut Champagne NV, $82 This stylish Champagne is an exciting new find: from third-generation growers Julien Launois and his wife Sarah, who started making wines in 2015 from their small family estate in the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. The Monochrome #1 is an impressive ultra-dry 100 per cent chardonnay, with a pure and poised palate of crisp apple and lemon, hints of almond paste, acidity and an intense flinty minerality. Stockists: Barewine.co.nz
3. Andre Clouet Grande Reserve Brut Champagne NV, $68 A 100 per cent pinot noir Champagne that offers great value. Its attractive notes of apple and stonefruit are underpinned by rich toasted brioche and hazelnut notes. All this is supported by a fine and fresh line of lemon and mineral salts and a fine mousse. Stockists: Black Market; New World; Dhall & Nash
4. Marion-Bosser Premier-Cru Brut Rosé Champagne NV, $90 Marion-Bosser’s impressive grower Champagnes are made by the mother and daughter team of Bernadette and Elodie Marion in the Premier Cru village of Hautvillers. Their elegant and fresh rosé Champagne combines delicate raspberry and redcurrant fruits with a suggestion of apple and almond pastry. Stockists: Threefrenchvines.com; Winedirect.co.nz; New World
NZ’S FINEST
BEST LOCAL BUBBLES
5. No 1 Family EstateReserve Marlborough Blanc de Blancs NV, $96 It’s perhaps no surprise that one of the top wines in this year’s sparkling tasting is made by a 12th-generation Champagne winemaker. Daniel Le Brun crafts this exquisite Reserve example in Marlborough, which layers white flowers, white fruits and citrus over subtle nutty, biscuity nuances, wrapped in a creamy mousse. The release is limited to just 1000 individually numbered bottles. Stockists: Glengarry; No1familyestate.co.nz
6. Koyama Waipara Methode Traditionnelle Brut Nature NV, $45 A delicious bone-dry pinot noir-dominant blend made in tiny quantities by Takahiro Koyama, in which rich notes of gingerbread and toasted breadcrust are counterpoised by a powerful line of lemony acidity. Koyama has had a growing focus on sparkling wine with his original label and at Mountford Estate, which he now also runs, and this is a fine addition to Aotearoa’s sparkling scene. Stockists: Great Little Vineyards; Hamilton Beer & Wine Co; Star Superette; By the Bottle; Natural Liquor
7. Mumm Marlborough Brut Prestige NV, $40 A decidedly Champagne-like local traditional method wine, from a collaboration between the Champagne House of Mumm and Pernod Ricard NZ, makers of the likes of Brancott Estate. It expertly juxtaposes richness with freshness in its notes of crisp apple and lemon curd, savoury praline undercurrent, and long nutty finish. Stockists: New World; Countdown; West Liquor; Liquorland; Super Liquor; Glengarry; Moore Wilson’s
NZ’S FINEST
8. Quartz Reef Bendigo Estate Methode Traditionnelle Central Otago Rose NV, $43 Refined strawberry and redcurrant meld with hints of rose-like florals, creamy notes and an appealing savoury dimension. A complex and compelling rose which finishes with a dynamic wave of freshness and lingering minerally note. Stockists: Glengarry; Fine Wine Delivery; Farro Fresh; Quartzreef.co.nz
9. Hunter’s MiruMiru Marlborough NV, $29 Hunter’s has been making its MiruMiru for two decades from the classic trio of Champagne varieties — pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier — over which time it’s established the wine as consistently offering great quality and value. Its latest release over-delivers once more with a lovely lemony freshness to the fore, joined by white fruits and more complex toasty, yeasty elements. Stockists: Fine Wine Delivery; The Good Wine Co; Wine Direct; First Glass Wine & Spirits; Primo Vino
10. Morton Estate Brut Methode Black Label NV, $20 Ridiculously good value for a traditional method sparkling wine, Morton’s pink-tinged crowd-pleaser ushers in baked apples, juicy lemons and a touch of toastiness. Rumour has it, its price may be rising soon, so stock up for the festive season and beyond. Stockists: New World; Pak’nSave; selected specialist liquor stores
EURO-FIZZ
EURO-FIZZ
11. Borga Prosecco Extra Dry, Italy NV, $25 Light, bright and bone dry, this is a lovely expression of prosecco from a family-run estate in the Treviso region of Veneto. Its crunchy green apples and mouth-watering lime join hints of stonefruit, perfumed with a touch of jasmine. Stockists: Caro’s
12. Vilarnau Barcelona Cava Organico Brut Reserva, Spain NV, $25 There’s plenty of richness to this organic cava, with its notes of spiced honey cake, baked apple, stonefruit, toasted nuts and bread characters, offset by crisp lemon. Full of flavour, gorgeous packaging and great value. Stockists: Caro’s; First Glass Wines & Spirits
13. Ramon Jane Tinc Set Escumos Brut, Spain 2019 $33-35 A biodynamic pet-nat made with wild yeasts and no added sulphur from local grapes in the cava country of Spain’s Penedes. It’s ultra-dry, pure and savoury in style, with brisk citrus and restrained apple and pear, laced with white pepper and herb, an underlying vegemite-savoury richness. Stockists: Star Superette; Cahn’s Wines & Spirits; Fine-O-Wine; By the Bottle; Cult Wine; Planetwine.co.nz
14. Sartori Prosecco Rosé Brut, Italy NV, $25 Following the popularity of prosecco and the fashion for drinks pink, prosecco rosé became an official denomination in Italy last year for bubbly made from the traditional white prosecco grape Glera and a dash of Pinot Nero (pinot noir) for colour. While some “ro-secco” can be on the sweeter side, the Sartori is a more serious dry style that’s fresh, citrusy and moreish with strawberry scented with rose. Stockists: New World; Dhall & Nash
15. Privat Reserva Brut Nature Rosé Cava, Spain 2018, $32 This very appealing bone-dry organic cava is made from a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay. It combines green apple and fresh lime notes, with more complex nuances of honey and toasted breadcrust. From: Hamilton Beer & Wine Co; Regional Wines; Stvincentscave.com
