Cloudy Bay, clear vision: the roundabout story of New Zealand’s most famous wine

Douglas Blyde 17Apr 2025 | The London Standard

‘After our first vintage, my Italian viticulture professor came over with tears in his eyes’

The founder of Cloudy Bay wine, David Hohnen, has teamed up with entrepreneur Rupert Clevely — of Geronimo Inns fame — and the Marlborough Grape Growers Cooperative to launch Marlborough Heartland, a Sauvignon Blanc which captures the essence of a remarkable landscape.

Hohnen doesn’t just move through the wine world, he tears through it on a motorbike. Literally. In 1969, aged 20, he rode from Adelaide to Sydney, loaded his bike onto a P&O liner, and crossed the Pacific to California, petrol still sloshing in the tank. He landed in Fresno, a dusty, agricultural outpost in the Central Valley, where the local university offered five-acre student vineyards and a neglected teaching winery which hadn’t produced a drinkable drop in years. That changed when Hohnen got the keys.

“They gave me five acres of Carignan and told me to get on with it,” he says. “The winery was a mess. I spent three months scrubbing tanks. After our first vintage, my Italian viticulture professor — a good man called Vince Petrucci — came over with tears in his eyes and said, ‘Thank you, this is the first wine I’ve been able to drink from this place.”’ Hohnen was hooked.

Back in Western Australia by 1970, Hohnen helped plant the early vines which became Cape Mentelle. There was no blueprint, just instinct, energy and the conviction that wine ought to express something beyond itself. “In ‘74 we had our first real vintage. ‘78 was terrific — critic James Halliday gave us a great write-up. We were in a shed, crude kit, but the wines had promise.”

Then, in 1983, he was ambushed by a grape. A few bottles left by visiting Kiwi winemakers turned everything. He says: “It wasn’t just good – it was electrifying.”

Armed with curiosity and air miles donated by his brother Mark, Hohnen zigzagged across New Zealand in search of the right spot for Sauvignon Blanc. Gisborne was too lush. Hawke’s Bay, too humid. Then came Marlborough. “It was brown. Dry. Sunlit. I thought, “Gotcha!”’

From trout to triumph

By 1985, Cloudy Bay was born; funded by a brutal million-dollar loan at 23.5 per cent interest. The decision was sealed after Hohnen’s brother’s business partner, Simon Fraser (of the Loch Ness Frasers), caught a trophy trout on a fishing trip in the area. “I always said Cloudy Bay owes it to a fish.”

They built the winery at speed, introduced a tilt-up slab technique that had never been used in New Zealand, and sent grapes north to Kevin Judd, the pioneering winemaker Hohnen had met at a wine show in Auckland. The 1985 vintage was blended with a little Riesling and Semillon, allowing it to age gracefully. “It worked,” says Hohnen says. “People still remember their first glass.”

Cloudy Bay wasn’t launched. It bolted onto the scene: “People thought we contrived the allocation. We didn’t. It was a runaway horse. I just sat firm in the saddle, held the reins, and tried to steer.” Demand constantly outpaced supply. “Probably never caught up in my time.”

Veuve Clicquot came calling. Under the stewardship of Joseph Henriot, and later Cécile Bonnefond, Cloudy Bay thrived. “They were smart. Understood wine. Understood brand. Let us get on with it.”

By 2000, Hohnen found himself Chairman and MD of both Cape Mentelle and Cloudy Bay. “Not my choice of title. For a country hick, it sat heavy. I decided to leave. Should’ve gone straight away. Instead, I stuck around for the handover — the worst mistake I ever made.”

He drifted, gloriously. Raised free-range pigs with real care, railing against their status as “the four-legged chooks of the world.” Then came the charcuterie, but done properly: low intervention, slow drying, clean, honest flavours.

The return

In 2022, Cloudy Bay called him back. They’d rebuilt the original winery as a visitor centre and named it the Founder’s Centre. “It was emotional. We’d parted well, and we’re friends again now.”

He had one last idea: enter Marlborough Heartland – a new label, made in collaboration with Rupert Clevely (of Geronimo Inns) and the Marlborough Grape Growers Cooperative, a formidable alliance of 80 growers who usually make bulk wine.

“They do 16 million litres a year,” Hohnen says. “I said, let’s make something special. We picked eight vineyards on deep pebble soils in the central Wairau Valley – the black country. That’s where the best Sauvignon comes from. Ripe, not green. No tomato leaf. Just bright fruit, full palate, lovely tingle. For just over a tenner, it speaks.”

His daughter, Freya — top of her class, a seasoned winemaker, and mother of two — is on the blending bench. “She does the high notes. I do the low. You’ve got to have both.”

A sense of place

What’s in the name? Like Cape Mentelle or Cloudy Bay, it’s geographical. “Some said ‘Cloudy’ sounded like cloudy wine. They were wrong. Place matters. It grounds you.”

Today, the second vintage of Marlborough Heartland is sailing towards England. Sainsbury’s has backed it. The supermarket’s wine agency partner, Watermill Wines, helped secure the listing. “They’ve got the buyers. We’ve got the story.”

And what a story. Cloudy Bay went on to become the world’s best-known white wine. No fuss, no spin, just magnetic Marlborough Sauvignon bottled by a man who listened when the land spoke.

Says Hohnen: “I’ve never had anything from New Zealand. But that’s because I’m Australian. Not sure they like to admit an Aussie created their most famous wine. Doesn’t matter. I’m just happy to be back.”

What’s next? “I don’t look back. I’ve made mistakes, sure. But winemaking is a privilege. You meet good people — real people — farmers whose wealth comes from the earth. Not suits.”

If he could share a bottle with anyone? “It’d be family. Always family. Someone once said, “Without family, you’d have to fight with strangers!” We’ve done pretty well.”

So ends this chapter, with the vines back under his feet and the Marlborough sun on his face. David Hohnen, still steering the horse. Still making the wine speak…

Tasting – Mission Wines, Hawkes Bay w/Tammy Edwards

A heritage like no other – Mission Estate Winery
Wednesday 12th March, 8pm
Door Price: Members $6 / Guests $10

Reaching NZ shores in 1838, pioneering French missionaries founded a legacy. From their many accomplishments now interwoven throughout history came New Zealand’s first winery, Mission , in 1851. Their inspiration, a legacy, continues.

Today their vineyards span two of NZ’s best winegrowing regions; Hawkes Bay and Marlborough. Hawkes Bay vineyards in the Gimblett Gravels and Taradale focus on Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah; but also include small clocks of other varietals such as Semillon and Cabernet Franc.

Whereas, their Marlborough properties, perfect for producing cool climate wine styles, grow Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.

Mission Estate Winery established in 1851 by pioneering French Missionaries is New Zealand’s oldest winery and the birthplace of New Zealand wine.
Mission Estate Winery established in 1851 by pioneering French Missionaries is New Zealand’s oldest winery and the birthplace of New Zealand wine.

Paul Mooney, our passionate winemaker since 1979, was trained by the Marist Brothers themselves, Paul imparts the very essence of Mission’s French heritage winemaking philosophy into both our Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough wines.

We consider ourselves guardians of our heritage and our land, and for more than 20 years we have been proud to be a founding member of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand. In 1998, we were also one of the first wineries in New Zealand to be certified with the internationally recognised environmental management system ISO 14001.

We start with 2024 Mission Estate Rosé as our conversation/entry tasting followed by:

  • 2023 The Gaia Project Pinot Gris
  • 2024 Mission Estate
  • 2023 Reserve Chardonnay
  • 2019 Mission Reserve Cabernet Franc
  • 2020 Mission Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2023 Reserve Syrah

SPECIAL NOTE: The door prize on tasting night is going to be something a little special, namely a bottle of Lanvin Brut Champagne NV. Ticket prices for this will be $2 each.

Looking Back – Pegasus Bay Wines, Mar ’24

We had Pegasus Bay wines presented to us by Ed Donaldson, Marketing Manager, who was informative and entertaining throughout the evening. Our club ordered 109 bottles from Pegasus.

Some of the information he imparted to us was:

  • Their venture started as a curiosity by Ed’s father, a surgeon 40 years ago.
  • That they have 40ha now planted in vines.
  • Their vines are not grafted from root stock.
  • They used to get grapes for their Main Divide range strictly from other growers/friends, this has now changed as they planted vines in 2008 to cover half this load.
  • There is seven family members involved in the day to day running of the business.
  • They export half of the wine they make to approx. 20 countries, including the UK, Belgium, Holland and Australia.
  • They will be 40 years old next year.

As a reminder of the wines we tasted during the evening:

Pegasus Bay, Waipara Valley w/ Ed Donaldson ‘Mar 24

www.pegasusbay.com
Wednesday 13 March, 8 pm
Door Price: Members $16 / Guests $20
PLEASE REMEMBER YOUR GLASSES

The Family, mmersed in the wine industry since the early 1970s and were pioneers of local grape growing and wine making.
The Family, mmersed in the wine industry since the early 1970s and were pioneers of local grape growing and wine making.

The Donaldson family have been seriously involved in wine since the early 1970’s and were pioneers of local grape growing and wine making.

Associate Professor and Consultant Neurologist, Ivan Donaldson, first became interested in wine when his girlfriend at the time, Christine, gave him a book simply called ‘Wine’, penned by English industry legend, Hugh Johnson.

After travelling to explore the wine regions of Europe, Ivan return home to plant one of the first vineyards of modern times in Canterbury, and to marry Christine, who has been an integral part of the Pegasus Bay story.

The first vineyard was a hobby with Ivan making wine in the garage at home on the weekends. In-between seeing patients at his private practice in the evening and after his shifts at the public hospital. He also started writing a wine column in the local newspaper and was a judge in numerous wine shows around the globe.

By the mid-1980s Ivan and Chris had decided there was definitely a future for wine making in Canterbury. They went on to plant Pegasus Bay with the help of their four sons, who have all ended up working in key role within the business.

Ed will be presenting a selection of wines from their premium Pegasus Bay label as well as some from their Main Divide collection:

  • Main Divide Rosé 2023
  • Pegasus Bay 2021 Sauvignon Blanc
  • Pegasus Bay 2020 Chardonnay
  • Pegasus Bay 2023 Bel Canto ‘Dry Riesling’
  • Main Divide 2021 Te Hau Pinot Noir
  • Pegasus Bay 2020 Merlot Cabernet
  • Pegasus Bay 2021 Finale ‘Noble Semillon Sauvignon Blanc

Clearview Tasting – Sept 23

The evening was well attended, and our presenter was Tim Turvey, winemaker, vineyard owner and the person who had returned tanned from Australia the day before after planting a pineapple plantation.

Tim regaled us with the history of how and why he set up the vineyard, built the house, established a native tree nursery and the expansions through to other regions of New Zealand for the different grapes he wanted to be able to use. He has 28 grape varieties they currently work with, plus a 100-year-old Olive tree that the original property owner, Vidals, planted.

He told us how the ‘White Caps’ range got its name, simply by white caps being the only colour available at the time for the new wines.

Our special treat was the extra tasting of their 2022 Reserve Chardonnay with a big buttery nose and taste from a challenging vintage, so it is in short supply.

The evening was finished with their Sea Red Dessert wine, a nice sweet touch.

A reminder of the wines we tasted during the evening:

  • 2021 Clearview Sparkling Blush arrival wine
  • 2023 Clearview Coastal Pinot Gris
  • 2022 Clearview White Caps Chardonnay
  • 2020 Clearview Reserve Semillon
  • 2021 Clearview Martinborough Pinot Noir
  • 2021 Clearview Cape Kidnappers Syrah
  • Clearview Sea Red Dessert Wine [500ml]

Clearview Wines, presented by Tim Turvey – Sept 2023

Wednesday 13th September, 8 pm Start | Door Price: Members $10 / Guests $14

Clearview Estate has grown and owner-operated since 1986: Tim Turvey & Helma van den Berg.

TIM TURVEY & HELMA van den BERG
TIM TURVEY & HELMA van den BERG

Purchased in 1986, the neglected but historic Vidal’s No.2 Vineyard at Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay, was set to become Clearview Estate. Tim Turvey, with business partner Helma van den Berg, took on the challenge of bringing it back to life. Together, they hand-grafted and planted the first vines in the winter of 1988. Clearview Estate Winery Ltd was established for the first red wine vintage in 1989, following experimentation in prior years. Chardonnay began in 1991 with the release of the first Reserve Chardonnay.

Over the next several years, Tim and Helma planted thousands of trees, including avocado, olive, bay, citrus, gums, and melia. And they didn’t stop there. Together, they expanded the vineyard by three acres each year, grafting and planting vines, ramming posts, running wires, training young vines, and, for many years, completing all of the pruning themselves.

Today, the business proudly remains owner-operated. Tim oversees the vineyards and works with chief winemaker Matt Kirby and assistant winemaker Rob Bregmen to create legendary, much-awarded wines. Helma manages the finance, restaurant, gardens and her extraordinary team. Steeped in history, Clearview Estate Winery Cellar Door and Clearview Estate Restaurant have become an iconic and awarded destinations for both locals and visitors from afar.

194 Clifton Road, Te Awanga, Hastings, Hawke’s Bay.

Wines for our evening:

  • 2021 Clearview Sparkling Blush arrival wine
  • 2023 Clearview Coastal Pinot Gris
  • 2022 Clearview White Caps Chardonnay
  • 2020 Clearview Reserve Semillon
  • 2021 Clearview Martinborough Pinot Noir
  • 2021 Clearview Cape Kidnappers Syrah
  • Clearview Sea Red Dessert Wine [500ml]

Looking Back – Askerne Vineyard, June 23

John Loughlin from Askerne Vineyard presented to us last month, and he was very pleasantly surprised to find 45 members and guests attending. We have to go way back to 2010 to find that number exceeded, so thank you, everyone, for supporting us with your presence.

John explained that Askerne now has 32ha to grow the 17 varieties of grapes that he and his wife now cultivate, and whilst Askerne is right beside the Tukituki River, they were spared the full force of Cyclone Gabrielle. It could easily have been much worse, as the water rose to 30cm below the top of their stop bank!

Their cellar door is now open 24/7, and John said please visit if you are up in Hawkes Bay for some tastings, He went on to explain that whilst we weren’t tasting these on the night, he felt their Pinot Gris was looking really smart, and their Pinot Noir really good too.

The wines tasted on the night were:

  • 2022 Sérieux Rosé – the welcome wine
  • 2020 Semillon
  • 2022 Reserve Chardonnay
  • 2021 Gewurztraminer
  • Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc
  • 2021 Cabernet Franc
  • 2019 Late Harvest Semillon

And it was pleasing to note that the quality of these wines was reflected in the excellent number of wines orders received on the night.

So, thanks again to everyone for your support and a special thanks for John for his well delivered tasting presentation.

Askerne, Hawkes Bay with John Loughlin, June ’23

Wednesday 14th June, 8 pm Start | Door Price: Members $12 / Guests $16

Askerne Estate Winery commenced in April 1993 when wine lovers John and Kathryn Loughlin purchased the original 11.6 hectares site in Te Mata
Mangateretere Road. John and Kathryn had studied winemaking and viticulture in the previous years, with Kathryn, as the more diligent student, achieving the higher grades.

They called the property Askerne, being the olde English name of Kathryn’s birthplace, Askern, in Yorkshire, England.

John took up the role of Finance Manager of the large Richmond Limited meat company to provide the finance for the developing wine venture, and Kathryn assumed management of the vineyard operations.

Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in late 1993, Semillon and Riesling in 1994, Chardonnay in 1995 and Gewürztraminer in 1996. The first wines were made at the Waimarama Estate Winery (then owned by Dr John Loughlin, John’s father) in 1996. These wines were released under their initial white label with green trees.

2015 Rebecca, the second Loughlin daughter joined the Askerne team working in the cellar door.
2015 Rebecca, the second Loughlin daughter joined the Askerne team working in the cellar door.

In February 1997, the Askerne cellar door was opened to the public, and it also sold Waimarama Estate’s red wines, including the then-famous Waimarama Dessert Cabernet.

The 1997 vintage produced very fine wines from Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay which confirmed the potential of the site.

Askerne commenced exporting with wines from the 1997 vintage and in 1998 Dr John Loughlin sold Waimarama Estate Winery and from the 1999 vintage Askerne’s wines were made on site.

John last presented to the Club in February 2019 and his presentation was a delight, both because of his delivery and the wines themselves. This month’s tasting promises to be equally compelling as we get the chance to taste the following wines:

  • 2022 Askerne Sérieux Rosé
  • 2020 Askerne Sémillon
  • 2022 Askerne Reserve Chardonnay
  • 2021 Askerne Gewürztraminer
  • Askerne Merlot Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2021 Askerne Cabernet Franc
  • 2019 Askerne Late Harvest Sémillon

This selection of Hawkes Bay wines promises a lot and I’m sure we will not be disappointed by their taste or quality. Make sure you are there to find out which will be your favourite.

WA wines, August 2021

Our Aussie evening with Keith Tibble (and his Manager Nick), from EuroVintage, was information filled and a great voyage of discovery of the three Western Australian vineyards – Sandalford, Xanadu and Moss Wood.

Our intrigue was sated, and the tasting was a really good experience of the different vineyards and the different categories of wines on offer.

As a reminder the vineyards we were introduced to were:

  • Sandalford
  • Xanadu
  • Moss Wood

Wines presented include:

  • 2018 Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Semillon
  • 2019 Xanadu Exmoor Chardonnay
  • 2018 Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay
  • 2018 Sandalford Margaret River Shiraz
  • 2018 Xanadu DJL Shiraz
  • 2017 Sandalford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2017 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Cabernet Sauvignon

We had good numbers attend, 44 in total and orders were excellent.

Alan Evans tasting in review – August 2020

It’s excellent now we’re in COVID19 Level One! Well done everyone!

“One of the most prestigious tastings in the 40 years of the club’s existence”. That’s what the Independent Herald wrote in their 17th September issue when reviewing last month’s tasting. And what a night it was. For those of you fortunate enough to attend our second (and last?) meeting under COVID Level 2, I am sure you will agree it was impressive.

Celebrating 40 years of tastings 2001 Penfolds 389 1991 Te Mata Estate Coleraine

Presented by Life Member and former President, Alan Evans, this carefully curated (by Alan and Wayne) selection was sourced from Alan’s temperature-controlled cellar and the Club’s cellar. This is what they came up with:

  • 2016 Ogier Cotes du Rhone Blanc
  • 2016 Askerne Semillon
  • 2017 Dom. Vincent Careme Vouvray Le Clos
  • 2011 Penfolds 389
  • 2001 Penfolds 389
  • 1991 Coleraine
  • 2017 Troplong Mondot St Emilion Grand Cru

It is difficult to pick favourites as all the wines were superb. However, there was some consensus at our table, so I will highlight a couple. Of the whites, the Ogier Cotes du Rhone Blanc was our pick. This bargain-priced (under $20) blend contains five grapes: Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bouroulene, Roussane and Viognier. Produced without any oak at all, it showcases the region’s fruit above all else. Alan has become an expert in that region since, as he explained, at the Magnum Society the popular areas of France, i.e. Bordeaux and Burgundy, had already been taken. No one wanted Cotes du Rhone, so he took it!

Of the reds, it was the two Penfolds 389’s, their classic and much sought after Cabernet Shiraz wine, that was favoured at our table. Opinion differed as to which was the best but to me, it was 2001. Deep colour and very concentrated, it showed the benefits of keeping this wine for almost two decades. Alan explained that Bin 389 is often referred to as ‘Poor Man’s Grange’ or ‘Baby Grange’ because the wine is said to be matured in the same barrels that held the previous vintage of Grange. Interestingly 2001 was under cork while 2011 had a screw cap. Alan gave us the latest thinking on screw caps where there have been some disappointing results for cellared wines: the sulfur dioxide levels can be too high and produce rotten egg aromas. Some producers are returning to cork now that they can get guaranteed taint-free products like the Diam. The majority of Penfolds’ top-end red wines are now 100 per cent cork-sealed. They are also looking into the use of glass closures. Alan’s tip on removing that sulphur rotten egg smell: dip a copper penny into the wine and it will convert it to odourless copper sulphide!

This meeting was a highlight of our 40th Anniversary year and was a good opportunity to taste older cellared wines. A huge thanks go to Alan who indicated he is happy to do a similar tasting at some stage in the future.

Author – Terry Friel 

$1 Margaret River Sauvignon / Semillon, Visit from Mel 

$1 Margaret River Sauvignon / Semillon

I never thought I would have to confess to anything along these lines, but while visiting our daughter in Sydney last week we actually drank a wine that she had only paid $1 for the bottle. To put as rosy a picture on this as is possible, it was an Australian dollar. Our daughter works for Woolworths and they have a staff store at their head office, so it was a staff discount, but still…….

As I wrote the last paragraph I thought to myself, what on earth’s name is the internet for, so I looked. The wine was a Cape Mentelle (Margaret River) Sauvignon / Semillon blend so I visited their website. It is advertised there for A$26. What a bargain, should have got a dozen.

Visit from Mel

Some of those who joined us more recently may not remember Mel Ingalls. Mel was a member of the Club for some time and a committee member with a number of those still on the committee now. He left to return to his native America. It was, therefore, quite an occasion that he was able to join us at the June tasting while he is spending a few weeks back in New Zealand. You are welcome Mel as always.

See you on Wednesday, with a lovely evening in prospect.

Cheers
Robin Semmens
Editor

Askerne Wines – February 2019

Another great evening with nice wines and an informative presenter. John Loughlin was a pleasure to deal with and kept the meeting running to time. A good level of orders resulted. But that all our tastings were as easy to organize as this one was. John says he would be more than happy to come back and has some interesting wines that we haven’t yet tried. We will keep this in mind.

The wines tasted included; Askerne Sauv Blanc / Sauv Gris / Semillon 2018 as the quaffer; followed by; Askerne Reserve Chardonnay 2016; Askerne Viognier 2018; Askerne Gewürztraminer 2016; Askerne Syrah 2015; Askerne Merlot Cab Franc Cab Sauv Malbec 2015; Askerne 2016 Cabernet Franc; rounded off with the Askerne Dessert Cabernet 2018.