How the wine industry went from ‘preparing for the worst’ to recording record-high earnings

James Fyfe | 28/11/2020

Related video: Many winemakers say 2020 was the best vintage in decades. Credits: Video – Newshub; Image – Getty

When the nationwide lockdown was announced at very the same time as the wine harvest earlier this year, panic rippled across the viticulture sector.

And though it was later deemed an essential service and allowed to continue operating during alert level 4, the industry faced a number of challenges in the face of the COVID-19 pandemic.

Strict conditions meant wineries and vineyards had to change their way of working, adapting to tough new health and safety regulations all the while maintaining productivity.

But not only did the industry survive those trying times, it’s also now been revealed that it actually flourished, with the latest figures showing exports for the 12 months to October hit a record high of $2 billion.

Clive Jones, chair of New Zealand Winegrowers, says reaching the milestone this year came as a surprise for the industry.

“We made a bold prediction 10 years ago that we thought we could double sales from $1 billion to $2 billion by the year 2020,” Jones told Newshub.

“I guess we always thought we’d get there but at the beginning of the year we really didn’t think it would be this year.”

He said although sales had been gradually improving over the past year, there was a “big surge” in the last four or five months.

Rabobank’s latest Wine Quarterly report, published last month, noted an increase in export sales was related to more people drinking at home during lockdowns around the world, leading to an uptick in retail trade.

Jones said that was good news for New Zealand wine producers, although he acknowledged wine businesses that sell predominantly through on-premise and tourism have been harder hit.

According to the Rabobank report, sauvignon blanc makes up the lion’s share of Kiwi wine exports, with year-on-year sales to August up 131 per cent. But Jones says there is an increasing appetite for pinot noir, the second most popular export, as well as rosé and pinot gris.

The US, the UK and Australia continue to be our largest markets, and  Jones says he believes New Zealand’s reputation as being largely virus-free has helped push our brand.

“I’m also sure that New Zealand has internationally been seen in a pretty good light in recent times, so there’s a positive feeling about New Zealand.

Photo: Getty“Perhaps when people pick a bottle of New Zealand wine off the shelf and they take it home to drink they’re thinking ‘I wish I was there’.”

Jones said the industry was “preparing for the worse” when the level 4 lockdown was announced but said the sector had really rallied together to face the challenges thrown at it.

“Everyone responded positively and took the issue seriously and the safety of our people and communities was paramount,” he said.

“We were determined as an industry not to be the source of a community outbreak so thankfully we got through that ok.”

The sector is not out of the woods yet, however, with the country’s closed borders meaning there remains a labour shortage for the upcoming harvest.

Border exemptions announced on Friday allowing 2000 recognised seasonal employers (RSE) workers from Pacific countries to come to New Zealand early next year will go some way to relieving that pressure, says Jones, but it won’t be a magic fix.

He said although workers were needed for the harvest – which, depending on where in the country a vineyard is, usually takes place around March and April and lasts for six weeks – a more critical time was winter when vines need to be pruned.

The other concern is the weather.

“There’s a bit of risk of ex-tropical cyclones, which is something we want to avoid, so hopefully that doesn’t happen – we don’t want rain during harvest.”

“It was a very kind harvest in terms of weather,” Jones said.

“It was one of the best seasons we’ve had so that was the one thing we didn’t have to worry about.”

Wairarapa trip – Saturday, 13 February

Tim Coney of Coney Wines in Martinborough. Photo: Loren Dougan/Fairfax media.
Tim Coney of Coney Wines in Martinborough. Photo: Loren Dougan/Fairfax media.

As mentioned in September, the trip we had to postpone earlier this year is back on for Saturday, 13 February next year and it promises to be a great day.

To enable us to finalise the arrangements and ensure we have a big enough bus, we now need all members to read the following and then email Wayne to confirm your status for the new date.

The club is holding the payments of most of those members who’d committed to going this year (ie, those who didn’t request a refund) and of course, we welcome other members who are now in a position to join the trip.

So please email Wayne by Friday, 11 December, and advise him of one of the following options, along with all applicable names.

  1. I/we booked and paid for the March trip and will also be coming in February 2021.
  2. I/we booked and paid for the March trip but are unable to come in February 2021 so would ask you to arrange a refund.
  3. I/we were not on the list for the March trip but would now like to be added.
  4. I/we were not on the list for the March trip and will not be attending in February 2021.

Please note that if you are C, you will also need to deposit $75 into the club’s bank account 06 0541 0056031 00 before 24 December.

We plan to follow the same timetable as we’d planned for last March to save you searching your inboxes. This document is just to refresh your memory – we’ll update it closer to the date when the train times for that period are confirmed. It’s also likely that we’ll be visiting a different winery to Palliser, as they are now focusing on their new restaurant, rather than tastings. Details to follow.

Palliser Estate

Grave Wines

alana wines

Come along for a fun day and help wrap up the club’s 40th birthday celebrations in style!

When the savvy bubble bursts: Ending NZ’s love affair with sauvignon blanc

Jules van Costello, The Spinoff | November 26, 2020

New Zealand’s wine industry built its name on sav, but we’ve been putting all our eggs in one basket for too long, writes Jules van Costello.

Savvy represents 63% of New Zealand’s area under vine, 74% of our wine production and a whopping 88% of our exports by volume, meaning for every dozen bottles of wine we export, over 10 of those are sauvignon blanc. Photo: Getty Images
Savvy represents 63% of New Zealand’s area under vine, 74% of our wine production and a whopping 88% of our exports by volume, meaning for every dozen bottles of wine we export, over 10 of those are sauvignon blanc. Photo: Getty Images

I like to think of sauvignon blanc as the IPA of wine. It’s brash, bombastic and a little bit basic (in a good way). Like IPA, its tropical aromas of guava, passionfruit, lemongrass and a little bit of sweat jump forth from the glass. In the words of wine educator Oz Clark: “There had never before been a wine that crackled and spat its flavours at you from the glass”. It should not be surprising that some of the flavours in savvies and IPAs are the same – New Zealand’s most acclaimed hop variety, Nelson Sauvin, is named for its olfactory similarity to Marlborough sauvignon blanc.

Savvy is easy to understand and even easier to like. In the world of wine, which has a tendency to disempower consumers by letting so-called “experts” hoard knowledge, this is unequivocally a good thing.

Sauvignon blanc put New Zealand on the map. It is the foundation on which the entire export side of our wine industry has been built. But sadly, there can be too much of a good thing. While writing my new book, Beyond the Vines: The Changing Landscape of New Zealand Wine, I’ve had to wrestle with the fact that while sauvignon blanc is amazing, the New Zealand wine industry has too many eggs in one basket. It represents 63% of New Zealand’s area under vine, 74% of our wine production and a whopping 88% of our exports by volume, meaning for every dozen bottles of wine we export, over 10 of those are sauvignon blanc.

In August 2020, New Zealand Winegrowers released their annual report which stated that, despite six months of Covid-19 affecting sales, we’d actually exported more wine than ever before. Big grocery brands have done incredibly well but many smaller producers are feeling the pinch. The smaller the producer, the more likely they are to be selling wine in restaurants, which is hard when restaurants are shut or diners are too scared to go out. Secondary lockdowns in Melbourne, London and even in Auckland,  as well as the huge mishandling of Covid in our biggest markets – the USA and UK – have had profoundly negative effects for many Kiwi producers.

New Zealand, the forward-thinking upstart that it is, committed to free trade in the mid-1980s. We are an export economy and from my position, this has generally helped us do business. However, one of the consequences of this is that no industry is too big to fail. Our producers, unlike those in Europe, for instance, cannot rely on government intervention to keep them afloat if the arse drops out of the market.

Ripening white grapes at a vineyard in Marlborough Region, country's largest winegrowing region with distinctive soils and climatic conditions, South Island of New Zealand. Photo: Getty Images
Ripening white grapes at a vineyard in Marlborough Region, country’s largest winegrowing region with distinctive soils and climatic conditions, South Island of New Zealand. Photo: Getty Images

Sauvignon blanc is popular now across the globe, but what happens when the bubble bursts? We could face a quick trend shift à la Sideways that saw merlot’s demise, or even a sudden global event change how the wine world works overnight. Most of the players who are making big bucks on industrial sauvignon blanc will not care. They will move onto something else. The growers and the wineries will be hurting. The wine world is a slow-moving beast, but it is also a fickle one. At this stage, New Zealand does not have an exit strategy.

Savvy is important – we can make relatively high-quality juice relatively cheaply. This is what got us into this problem in the first place. But we can also make world-class wine all over New Zealand. We need to champion more serious styles of sauvignon blanc, which we excel at.

We also need to diversify, and quickly. Despite having over 55 commercial varieties being grown, land devoted to most varieties has been dwindling (all but sauvignon blanc, of course, pinot noir, pinot gris and syrah).

I myself am heavily invested in the natural and lo-fi wine game with my businesses Cult Wine and Te Aro Wine but, strangely enough, I do not think this is the saviour of the industry, nor is making more and more serious wine. We need to find something we can make relatively cheaply, well, and for which there is an international demand.

I believe light red wines are part of the answer to the problem of the sav bubble – Montepulciano from Italy, St Lauren from Austria and Gamay are all contenders. In Australia, these light reds have taken off domestically and are making waves internationally. Like sav, we can make affordable pinot relatively well so there is no reason why we cannot apply these skills to grape varieties that are a little easier to grow. I happen to like drinking light reds but this is one solution that should also suit consumers in Australia, USA and the growing Chinese market.

We also need to experiment, throw grapes at the wall to see what sticks. The bubble will pop. We need to be ready.

Saint Clair Family Estate with Alison Downs – Oct 2020

Saint Clair Family Estate from Marlborough with Alison Downs
presenting.

Last month we had Saint Clair Family Estate from Marlborough with Alison Downs presenting.

This was an extremely well-presented evening and was enjoyed by all club members present – 40 of us!

It was interesting hearing Alison’s wine journey from the UK and Europe to the New World and her enduring wine passion and growing knowledge and experience.

The committee was unanimous in their agreement that Alison is probably the best presenter we have had in recent memory.

Our orders from the evening were substantial with people enjoying all the
wines presented, especially interesting to get to sample the Pinot Blanc, a new white grape for most.

  • 2019 Saint Clair Origin Pinot Gris Rosé
  • 2018 Saint Clair Pioneer Block 28 Pinot Blanc
  • 2019 Saint Clair Origin Hawke’s Bay Viognier
  • 2019 Saint Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
  • 2019 Saint Clair James Sinclair Chardonnay
  • 2018 Saint Clair Pioneer Block 22 Pinot Noir
  • 2017 Saint Clair Origin Hawke’s Bay Merlot

40th Anniversary dinner update – Nov 2020

Our 40th Anniversary dinner at Bellamy’s by Logan Brown at the Beehive Wednesday 18th November, 6:30 to 6.45 pm arrival for a 7:30 pm seating.

The first Club meeting was held in the month of November 1980. To recognise that historic milestone, our celebratory dinner will be held at Bellamy’s by Logan Brown at their restaurant in the Beehive.

The Beehive, Parliament Buildings, Wellington

Please arrive early as everyone attending has to clear Parliamentary security.

  • Access is through the ground floor of the Beehive, the door being on the side near the steps to Parliament Buildings.
  • On arrival, you will need to go through a security check. You will have to go through a gate – the same as at an airport – so be prepared to empty your pockets into a tray (men) and place your handbag etc in a tray (ladies). Your BYO will need to go through the scanner too!
  • After passing through security proceed to the Reception desk which is on the right at about two o’clock as you come through the electronic gate. Here the receptionists will have been supplied with a list of those attending so will be able to mark you off (if that hasn’t already been done by the security guards at the gate). You will be provided with a lift key that will allow you access to Level 3.
  • On exiting the lift go straight ahead to the large reception area in the restaurant where there will be the customary glass of bubbles, supplied by the Club.
  • You will also find lists shows your seat number and at your table, there will be cards detailing your menu choices, should you need reminding.
  • The dress code is smart casual [think summer wedding]. For women, that’s classy casual and for men, jacket with tie optional.
  • Note, the previously advised seating maximum of eight diners per table has been relaxed for our dinner and we are now confident we can accommodate our more tradition groupings.

So, bring along a favourite bottle of wine and be prepared for a very special occasion.

Vintage 2020 New Zealand statistics

After each vintage season, New Zealand Winegrowers surveys members and compiles vintage data snapshots for the industry.

NZ Wine Vintage Indicators by Region 2020

The total volume of grapes harvested and tonnage by wine region in 2020

NZ Wine Vintage Indicators by Variety 2020

The total volume of grapes harvested and percentage change on last year by key wine varieties.

40th Anniversary Dinner – Bellamys Wednesday 18th November

Sadly the delayed Wellington/Burger on a Plate has meant that the restaurant is unable to finalise our menu until after that event finishes. That means we won’t receive it until the first week of November. We have reluctantly accepted this, as it does ensure that we end up with a menu that should make the best of what is seasonally available.

But rather than leave everything to the last minute, we have decided to ask you to reply to this email by completing, as appropriate, the boxes below and at the same time crediting our bank account 06 0541 0056031 00 with $70 per person wishing to attend.

If your email software doesn’t allow you to input directly to these boxes when you go reply, we suggest you use your mouse to select the boxes and then copy and paste them into the reply section of your email.

If you don’t currently use internet banking, we can accept your cheque although this dinner is likely to be the last occasion that we can do this, as the ANZ is no longer accepting cheques for clearance after 1 June 2021

Important points

We will require the full name of each person attending [not just first and last names] as I believe this needs to be provided to Parliamentary security early in November we will provide the final menu and seek your menu choices. If the final menu is not to your liking, let us know and we will refund you immediately.

In addition to your meal choice, the table will also be served with a plate of each of the sides. These and corkage are all included in the dinner price.
Also included will be your customary glass of bubbles on arrival.
The dress code is smart casual [think summer wedding]. For women, that’s classy casual and for men, jacket with tie optional.
Table seating is either 6 or 8 places. Sorry, there can be no large groups.

Please reply before the end of October. Bellamys have limited seating and for this reason, we will be operating on a first-come basis and if the number is exceeded, we may need to add you to a waiting list. Whilst Bellamys’ limit does exceed the attendance levels of our past 10 dinners, we do think that the special nature of this dinner could prove to be a challenge so please reply as soon as possible.

We did contemplate limiting the dinner to just members but decided that this was unfair to those non-member partners who have been regular attendees at our past dinners. Nor has this ever been an approach that has been applied in the past.

Menu

Entrée

Green Onion Panisse, Layered Beetroot, And Mount Eliza Raw Milk Cheddar Emulsion

Smoked Kahawai Dip, Kapiti Seaweed, Remutaka Piko Piko, Courgette and Sourdough

Main

Braised Beef Cheek, Pumpkin Skordalia, Red Cabbage and Baby Carrots

Marlborough Hazelnut and Wild Parsley Crusted Market Fish, Yuzu Braised Fennel, Celeriac Sauce

Portobello and Pinot Noir Bourguignon, Jerusalem Artichoke and Shaved White Button Mushrooms

Dessert

Gisborne Citrus Sorbet, Meringue, Citrus and Black Sesame Crumb and Chantilly

Dark Chocolate Cremeux, Buttermilk Mint Sorbet, Cookie Crumble, Aero Chocolate and Caramel

Sides

Triple-Cooked Beef Fat Thick Cut Fries
Truffle Oil and Parmesan
Thyme and Garlic Roasted Portobello Mushrooms with Balsamic
Fresh Garden Lettuce with Citrus and Tahini Dressing
Kumara and Potato Gratin

We Asked 12 Sommeliers: What’s One Trend in Wine You Wish Would Catch On?

Words: Ashlie Hughes & illustration: Gerry Selian | November 11, 2020, VinePair

llustration: Gerry Selian
illustration: Gerry Selian

Some drinking fads come and go, while others, such as rosé and the once-obscure but now ubiquitous orange wine, are here to stay. With the uncertainty that 2020 has unleashed on the beverage industry, accurately predicting the next wine craze is a daunting task.

To discover which trends could soon be in vogue, VinePair polled industry pros to find the wines and industry practices that they hope will soon gain traction. From an innovative American wine region to grape varieties and winemaking styles that deserve more attention, here are 12 trends that might be coming to a wine store or restaurant nearby.

Wine Trends Sommeliers Wish Would Catch On

  • Marsalas
  • Piquettes
  • Screw caps
  • Champagne
  • Trusting your instincts
  • Grosses Gewächs Dry Rieslings
  • Coffee shop wine bars
  • Selfie-less wine
  • North American hybrid grapes
  • Labels with technical data
  • Transparency
  • Rieslings

Keep reading for details about all the recommended trends to watch!

“I like seeing the youngsters drinking their red wines chilled — cold, even. I am [also] happy to see red sparklings gaining a little shelf and cooler space. The thing I have been pushing for the last two years is great Marsala as an indulgence, or a luxury item, instead of a common kitchen ingredient. Marsala belongs in a glass, not on a plate.” —Jeremy Allen, Beverage Director, Little Dom’s & MiniBar Hollywood, Los Angeles

“The making of Piquette. It’s a light, easy-drinking, low-ABV, slightly fizzy wine product made from the grape pomace macerated in water, and traditionally something served to vineyard workers during harvest.” —Damien del Rio, Owner, Sauced, Brooklyn

“I would like [to see] more screw caps and less cork. The sustainability of [the] screw cap is the way to go!” —Lenya Wilson, Level 2 WSET Sommelier, The Glenmark, Glendale, A Tribute Portfolio Hotel, Glendale, Calif.

“Drinking Champagne and sparkling wine for no reason at all.” —Rob Wecker, Master Sommelier and Owner, Bushel and a Peck Kitchen & Bar, Clarksville, Md.

“I wish people would learn to trust people — and their own palates — more than numbers or scores. Trust your instincts about what you like, rather than drinking what someone else thinks you should be drinking. … If you’re really interested in learning about all of the different wines and flavours that are out there, try to pick up at least one new bottle every time you shop for wine. Talk to the people who work at your wine store of choice, whether that’s the grocery store or your local wine shop. Tell them what you usually drink, and ask them to suggest something similar, but different, so you can try something new.” —Shawn Paul, Wine Operations Director, Foxcroft Wine Co., Charlotte, N.C. and Greenville, S.C.

“If there was one trend I wish would catch on, it’s using Grosses Gewächs (great growths) dry Rieslings on wine lists. These are super complex, pair with a range of foods, and, in my opinion, are better pairing wines than white Burgundies.” —Patrick Reno, Beverage Director, Luthun, NYC

“I noticed some new stores combining coffee shops and wine bars. I think those are perfect matches for mornings [that] then roll into a wine bar in the p.m. Both beverages [can be] enjoyed in that setting, doing some work or hanging with friends over some small plates. I think that setup makes wine bars more profitable and helps people learn, with the ability for service teams to talk to their guests. —Luke Kennedy, General Manager, Proper 21K, Washington, D.C.

“Drinking wine without posting a picture of the bottle. If three people drink a bottle of Clos Rougeard together, but no one posts a picture on Instagram, does it still count?” —Jordon Sipperley, Wine Director, Tidbits by Dialogue, Santa Monica, Calif.

“We are seeing a new generation of winemakers in New England experimenting with North American hybrid grapes (such as Frontenac Noir, Marquette, Brianna) — as [opposed] to the vitis vinifera grapes that we all know and love. Female winemaker Deirdre Heekin of La Garagista is a pioneering example of this.” —Kylie Monagan, Partner/Wine Director, Civetta Hospitality (Amali, Calissa, Bar Marseille), NYC and Water Mill, N.Y.

“More technical data detailed on the label. [I] love it when wineries provide information regarding the composition, oak regimen, vineyards, and name of winemaker, grape growers and/or cellar master.” —Scott Lester, Wine Director, Fellow, Los Angeles

“Transparency! By which I mean, simply, putting the ingredients of your wine on the label. It’s such a strange thing that the FDA requires nutritional labels for all packaged food, yet someone can make wine, manipulate it with all sorts of additives and chemicals, and call it Cabernet Sauvignon without listing what they actually put into it. A few wineries in Oregon have started listing their ingredients on the label as a movement to show that they only used organic grapes, for example, or perhaps they had to dilute with water, so the water becomes an ingredient. This is a movement about awareness. I think it is a long road to get people on track to really care, but if the wine industry were required to label all ingredients, that might change.” —Austin Bridges, Wine Director, Nostrana, Portland, Ore.

“I wish more people would be open to trying Rieslings. Many sommeliers and wine experts appreciate the qualities of a Riesling because it is such a unique and versatile wine that pairs with virtually any kind of food. … Rieslings offer a fresh new bouquet of flavour to the palate and are really quite, unlike any other wines. If you are ‘anti-sweetness,’ which is often associated with so many German Rieslings, stick with dry Rieslings from many New World countries or from Alsace. You will still get the flavour profile but much less sweetness — although sometimes the sweetness really helps when cooling down spicy foods.” —Piero Procida, Food & Beverage Director, The London West Hollywood at Beverly Hills, West Hollywood, Calif.

Happy Accidents: Three Wineries Turn Mistakes into Unexpected Successes

By Natasha Bazika | November 10, 2020

Photo by Jens Johnson

No one likes mistakes, but not all blunders are bad ones. Straying from the plan can sometimes lead to something better. This is especially true in wine, where trial and error are essential, and so many changes during hands-off processes like ageing.

The Prisoner

California winemaker Dave Phinney is one of the more legendary examples. Using an ad hoc mix of grapes, he created The Prisoner, a Zinfandel-driven red blend that proved unexpectedly popular, consistently selling out and establishing a new quality benchmark for blended wines altogether.

A rare blend of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah, & Charbono.
A rare blend of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah, & Charbono.

Phinney’s not the only vintner who’s made the most from a fluke in the cellar or vineyard, however.

For John and Stacey Reinert of Napa Valley’s Brilliant Mistake Wines, it was a fleeting impulse that brought success. In 2014, they sought to create a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant red blend. They enlisted Maayan Koschitzky, winemaker at Screaming Eagle and Atelier Melka by Philippe Melka, and sourced Cab from two of Napa’s most acclaimed vineyards. When other varieties were added, however, nothing worked.

“We tried all kinds of measurements and different grapes, but it still didn’t taste right,” says John. “That is until Stacey poured two samples [Cab] bottles into one wine glass on a whim. It was mind-blowing.”

They changed course and chose to instead make a 100% Cab Sauvignon. Delicious already, but with the structure to age, the wine earned high praise and established the label’s reputation. “[It] turned out to be a phenomenal wine for us,” he says.

An Intuitive Vinification

In New York’s Finger Lakes, winemaker Thomas Pastuszak also found fortune by chance. A sommelier and wine director at NoMad New York, Pastuszak started Empire Estate winery with Kelby James Russell, winemaker at Red Newt Cellars, in 2014.

Hoping to showcase the region’s dynamic terroir, he set out to create a Riesling from multiple vineyards. But impressed by one particular organic site, he followed his gut and left the grapes apart from the others.

“We harvested the site a month after the others and…it was such a unique expression that it demanded to be on its own,” he says.

Pastuszak believes the result, Empire’s Reserve Dry Riesling, is what set the brand apart from others.

Go NZ: A wine tour through and West Auckland’s best wineries

Maggie Wicks, NZ Herald | 18 June 2020

West Auckland’s wines are produced close to the city but their origins are a world away, writes Maggie Wicks

A view of the vineyards, Westbrook Winery, Auckland. Photo / Supplied
A view of the vineyards, Westbrook Winery, Auckland. Photo / Supplied

Dalmatian history is everywhere in West Auckland. You can see it as you drive. As central Auckland falls away, it gives way to suburbs, then motorways, then the low-lying industry of car yards and forklift hires. Finally, the paddocks and tractors and fruit trees of the countryside, only 25 minutes from town.

As the landscape changes, so does the language. Viksich. Vitasovich. Yukich and Fistonich. The history is written directly on to the street signs and the businesses.

And then there is wine. Award-winning, experimental, modern and traditional. It’s all here.

The late Josip Babich, who planted his first wines in 1912 when he was a teenager. Photo / Supplied
The late Josip Babich, who planted his first wines in 1912 when he was a teenager. Photo / Supplied

Kumeu is one of New Zealand’s most historic wine regions. Babich, one of the region’s best-known wineries, has been producing wine for 100 years. Josip Babich was just 14 years old when he left his home in Dalmatia, and set sail for New Zealand. He was alone – he never saw his parents again. He was here to dig kauri gum with his four brothers – he ended up establishing one of New Zealand’s most historic vineyards.

Down the road at Kumeu River, history is in the making. The Brajkovich family left Croatia for New Zealand in the 1930s, and have gone on to be internationally recognised as setting a benchmark for non-Burgundy chardonnays.

A world-leading chardonnay

In 2014, a very special blind tasting took place. London wine distributors Farr Vintners brought together a room of world-leading wine experts, critics and writers. Each of Kumeu River’s four chardonnays were tasted against white burgundies (chardonnay grown and produced in the French region of Burgundy) from the finest French producers. And the result? Kumeu triumphed over the top white burgundies in every category except one – where it came first-equal.

The Brajkovich family, the owners of Kumeu River. Photo / Supplied
The Brajkovich family, the owners of Kumeu River. Photo / Supplied

Kumeu River was started by Mate and Melba Brajkovich, and the company is now run by their four children. Between them there is a Master of Wine, a hospitality expert, a chemical engineer and a marketing professional – they really couldn’t have planned it better.
Rather than pitch into the juice with commercially cultivated yeast, they use a natural fermentation, leaving it to the ravages of the wild yeasts in the atmosphere. The result is nothing short of gorgeous. This August they’ll release the 2019 Hunting Hill chardonnay, which they say it’s their best ever – do not miss out.
This is beautiful country to drive through, but you may not recognise any of it past Swanson, which is the last passenger stop on the line. These days the lines further out carry only stock, no passengers, which is a crying shame. A train would be a handy and safe way to get home after a day of wine tasting.
In the Ararimu Valley, Westbrook is named after an old station, between Waikomiti and Glen Eden, which closed in the 80s. The winery was owned by the Ivisovich family for 85 years, until they sold to another local family just a few years ago. Here they offer not just a wine tasting, but an education in wine and food matching.

An education in wine pairing

Food and drink at Westbrook, Riverhead. Photo / Supplied
Food and drink at Westbrook, Riverhead. Photo / Supplied

Order the cheese and wine platter, and you’ll find a surprise on there – an outstanding bad match, which the server will delight in watching you discover for yourself. It’s a great lesson, and they’ll make sure you end on something delicious.

As you drive through Kumeu, you’ll realise that they’re experimental out here. Whereas Marlborough specialises in sauvignon blanc, in Kumeu they’re always testing and adjusting, trying new grapes, old grapes, fashionable styles and unheard of ones. Albarino is popular at the moment – it’s the chardonnay drinker’s sauv, and you’ll find it at many of the Kumeu cellar doors.
At the Hunting Lodge you’ll find an orange wine, a love-it or loathe-it drip that is fermented with the skins on. They’ve most recently released the Chardy Jack – bourbon-barrel-fermented chardonnay that could have happily come home with me.

An historic Auckland homestead

The Conservatory dining room at The Hunting Lodge, Waimauku. Photo / Supplied
The Conservatory dining room at The Hunting Lodge, Waimauku. Photo / Supplied

Once a private country estate, the historic 19th-century lodge has been hosting Aucklanders’ boozy lunches for five decades. This is also the site of New Zealand’s first sauvignon blanc. Now, more than 70 per cent of wine produced in New Zealand is sauv, and the Hunting Lodge still bottles its Homeblock sauvignon from 40-year-old vines.

At the lodge, guests can choose a pizza to nibble at the lawn bar, play petanque in the family area, visit the cellar door for a tasting (free if you buy a bottle), or take a table in the airy all-white conservatory, where the windows run from floor to ceiling.
The restaurant has taken chef Des Harris from Clooney and put him in charge of this beautiful dining area, where he works with a permaculturalist to create a sustainable farm-to-table experience.

Food and wine at The Hunting Lodge, Waimauku. Photo / Supplied
Food and wine at The Hunting Lodge, Waimauku. Photo / Supplied

We entered starving, we left stuffed. There was homegrown roasted beetroot served with ricotta and huge wedges of focaccia, a painterly pumpkin soup splattered with oils and petals and seeds, followed by lamb shoulder with fricelli pasta. After that, passionfruit and rosemary jellies with salted caramel fudge, and finally a glass of amaretto on ice appeared. Monsieur, it is only wafer thin…

Sated, satisfied, and a bit fuzzy around the edges, we walked out into the cold night, where a taxi was waiting. It was a dreamy 35 minutes back to Auckland along the dark and empty roads. An easy end to an easy, and excellent, day out.

Where to visit on a wine tour of Kumeu

Babich Wines
For a history lesson and great hospitality, plus the terrace is the perfect place on a sunny day.

babichwines.com
Soljans
Soljan’s was established in 1937 by Bartul Soljan, and is one of the oldest wineries in the country. It remains a proud family-owned and operated vineyard, and visitors can take a tour with a member of the family. Visit the cellar door for a wine flight, from the sparkling moscato to the tawny port, then stay for lunch.

soljans.co.nz
Kumeu River
A cellar door only. Stop by for a tasting of those famous chardonnays, and to learn about the history of this family-run business.

Kumeuriver.co.nz
Coopers Creek
A friendly cosy atmosphere by the fireside in winter, and gigs and picnics on the lawn in summer.

cooperscreek.co.nz
Westbrook
Beautiful dining area overlooking manicured lawns. Explore the grounds and experience the wine and cheese pairing.

Westbrook.co.nz
The Hunting Lodge
The perfect place to finish, from pizza to fine dining, and some unique bottlings.

Thehuntinglodge.com

How to do it

A barrell at Soljan's, Kumeu. Photo / Supplied
A barrell at Soljan’s, Kumeu. Photo / Supplied

It’s a only short drive, but if everyone wants to wine taste, arrange a driver.
Both NZ Wine Pro (nzwinepro.co.nz) and Fine Wine Tours (finewinetours.co.nz) offer door-to-door service with an expert on hand to introduce you to the history, the winemakers and the wines you taste, plus lunch included.

 

New Zealand wineries owner gave nearly $400,000 to Trump

U.S. President Donald Trump
U.S. President Donald Trump

New Zealanders may be surprised to know that the backer of many of their favourite wine brands is a Trump supporter, commentators say.

Bill Foley is an American billionaire whose Foley Family Wines Holdings has the majority stake in Foley Wines, which owns wine brands including Mt Difficulty, Te Kairanga, Vavasour, Roaring Meg, Dashwood, Russian Jack and Boatshed Bay as well as Lighthouse Gin.

A report by the San Francisco Chronicle said Foley had donated US$255,600 (NZ$393,939) to the United States President Donald Trump between 2016 and 2020.

It was the second-largest donation by a California vintner or winery executive to the Trump campaign, the paper said.

The biggest was from Tom Barrack at Happy Canyon Vineyard, worth US$360,600.

Foley Wines has been approached for comment.

David Cormack, who runs PR firm Draper Cormack, said the donations could put New Zealanders off the products.

Mt Difficulty Inspiration Cuvée Pinot Noir 2013
Mt Difficulty Inspiration Cuvée Pinot Noir 2013

“Many New Zealanders would be deeply disappointed if they learned that some of their favourite so-called Kiwi brands were owned by a Trump-supporting American.”

But Bodo Lang, head of marketing at the University of Auckland, said he thought it unlikely to make a difference.

“There are two reasons for this. Firstly, most wine drinkers are unlikely to be aware of Foley’s political ideology and secondly, even if they are, New Zealand is a relatively apolitical country, meaning that our involvement with politics is relatively low. However, this could change depending on future actions of Trump and how vocal Foley is in his support of Trump.”

Billionaire wine magnate Bill Foley is investing heavily in his South Wairarapa assets.
Billionaire wine magnate Bill Foley is investing heavily in his South Wairarapa assets.

Another marketing commentator, Ben Goodale, said the donations would be a corporate decision made in the United States, rather than anything to do with local winemakers and specific brands.

“It would be a shame to vilify great Kiwi wines because the parent company donate to the worst US president in history.”

In 2010, Foley and two other parties bought the South Wairarapa luxury lodge Wharekauhau. At the time, the property was estimated to be worth $24 million.

A packed future for club events

Future event for the club in late 2020 and into 2021 is packed with a range of presenters and no less than three food and wine events .

  • November 18th – – Our 40th Anniversary dinner at Bellamy’s (run by Logan Brown) at the Beehive

The first Club meeting was held in the month of November. To recognise that historic milestone, a celebratory dinner has been arranged, to be held at Bellamy’s by Logan Brown at their restaurant in the Beehive. This is set down for Wednesday 18 November, so check your diaries for availability.

Details will be sent out shortly, asking for your registration and to make your selection from the accompanying menu. As for any such venue, there will be a limit on numbers which means you should register quickly to secure your place.

The food promises to be of very high quality. So, book your place and go dig around in your wine stocks to find the special bottle (or two) that you think will go best with your selection to bring with you.

Your Committee is excited about this event and is sure you will be too.

  • December 9th –A Fun evening with CoLab, Simon Bell
  • January: BBQ at Derek’s
  • February: Coney’s for the 13th February 2021 – our postponed 40thanniversary outing to the Wairarapa [to include visits to Palliser and
    Grave/Alana]
  • March: Hawkesridge Winery (Hawkes Bay)
  • April: Del Mundo – Seaview – TBC
  • May: AGM
  • June: Mahi Wines (Marlborough) – tbc
  • July: Mid-year dinner
  • August: Aussie evening – TBC
  • September: Gordon Russell of Esk Valley
  • October: Sherwood from Waipara – TBC.