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By Walt Dickson. First published in Wairarapa Lifestyle Magazine, Winter 2020.
The new owner of Gladstone Vineyard Eddie McDougall, also known as the Flying Winemaker. PHOTO/EMMA BROWN
Contrary to what the name might suggest, The Flying Winemaker doesn’t own a plane, nor does he hold a pilot’s licence. But there is sincerity in Eddie McDougall’s moniker, yes, he does literally jet in to make the wine.
Born in Hong Kong, based in Australia, Eddie might be relatively new on the scene in Wairarapa, but he is an established name in other parts of the world; an award-winning winemaker, chairman of the Asian Wine Review, wine judge and TV personality behind one of Asia-Pacific’s most dynamic wine brands, The Flying Winemaker.
He swooped into the region in late 2018 buying the Gladstone Vineyard with lofty ambitions to make the best and most expensive wine in New Zealand.
Last year, his first vintage, he made two special wines at Gladstone that he says, will turn heads when they’re released: a field blend of three aromatic white varietals and an icon Pinot Noir that will be positioned as ‘New Zealand’s most expensive wine and best pinot’.
Eddie grew up in Brisbane and was studying for a business degree and working as a waiter in the early 2000s when he had a wine epiphany one night. Someone handed him a glass of Alsace pinot blanc and he was hooked. He enrolled in a winemaking degree and worked vintages across Australia and Italy. In 2009, he launched his wine label, making wine in the King Valley (Victoria), and later, Margaret River (Western Australia), buying fruit and leasing space in other people’s wineries.
His big break came in 2009, when he moved back to Hong Kong to set up the city’s first urban winery, shipping frozen grapes in from Europe and Australia. That’s when he earned his Flying Winemaker name, attracting the attention of television producers. Fast-track to 2018 and he was again looking for opportunities, initially in Australia, but when nothing caught his fancy, he looked across the Tasman.
‘I was happy to go wherever good wine is made, and Gladstone ticked all the right boxes
Making it such a great acquisition was that at Gladstone, all the ‘really hard work’ has been done, he says. ‘We believe that it is still the oldest white wine vineyard in the area – the first Sauvignon Blanc grapes were planted in 1986’.
Pinot Gris and Riesling have also since been planted, and instead of making three wines, Eddie makes a blend of all three.
‘Coming here we want to represent the region, and on a brand, level to represent what our true unique selling point is …we think we can make some serious, serious wines’.
In addition to the winery site, Gladstone Vineyard also owns considerably larger blocks of vines at nearby Dakin Road, as well as leasing crops from other growers. It is from the Dakins Road block that Eddie hopes to produce his icon Pinot Noir – to be called The Wairarapa – which he says will be the most definitive wine of the region, only made in the best possible years, 2019 is one of them.
The Flying Winemaker Team
With a global team based in Hong Kong and currently exporting throughout Asia, Australia, Norway, UK and USA, the sky is the limit. But he is not ignoring the domestic market and is determined to continue Gladstone Vineyard’s reputation for hosting terrific events.
Building on the success of the nearby Harvest Festive, Eddie aims to run up to four events a year at the winery. Exactly what they will be and when, wine lovers won’t want to miss out if his super cool Rose’ Revolutions, a mainstay on the calendar in Asia, are anything to go by.
Meanwhile, if you are in the neighbourhood, the cellar door is open daily from 11 am – 5 pm (except public holidays), but don’t expect to see Eddie, after all, when you have wings you gotta fly.
Wednesday 12 August – Victor Kattenbelt of Confidant Wines
Wednesday 16 September – Alan Evans and Ageing of quality wines
Wednesday 21 October – St Clair Family Estate, Marlborough
Wednesday 18 November – Club Anniversary dinner at Bellamy’s (run by Logan Brown)
December tbc
An invitation
Now that we’re past the shortest day/longest night of the year for this Equinox, if anyone would like supply a short article about their ‘Drop of the Day’, i.e. their go-to wine for this season, to share with the rest of the Club, please feel free to submit it.
Subscriptions are due 1st July and usually confirmed at the AGM. An additional wrinkle is that we won’t be having a July dinner so the opportunity to pay your subscription with the dinner payment has also been lost.
So to make things easier this year, it has been agreed that the subscription will remain at $25 and you will be asked to pay it directly into our bank account – 06 0541 0056031 00.
Wayne will send out an email requesting payment much closer to the date.
Note: Arrangements are well in hand for August and September so don’t be alarmed. We will provide details as soon as possible. Both will be great events, trust us.
The Crater Rim Ltd is a family-owned boutique winery situated in the rolling hills of Waipara, in the South Island of New Zealand. They grow, make and market limited quantities of terroir-specific wines produced from their own two vineyards and contracted sites in the Canterbury sub-regions of Waipara, Omihi and Banks Peninsula and in Central Otago.
These sites have been carefully selected for their particular mix of varietal, topography, soil and microclimate – creating high quality, site-specific wines of individual character and drinkability. The Crater Rim manage their own vineyards and work closely with each grower to ensure that vines are cropped low and managed sustainably, guaranteeing the best quality fruit possible from each vineyard site.
The result is exceptional wines from exceptional regions. So many good wines that we may try 8 for the tasting. Remember to drink sensibly if you are driving.
Lyn is a Sales Rep who works independently and has represented The Crater Rim for just over 3 years. She says “They are a wonderful family and team to work with and I have grown their brand extensively in the top of the South Island and the lower North Island. As mentioned previously, her background is in retail and marketing, but she thoroughly enjoys both marketing and drinking the Crater Rim product.
Because of uncertainty about recommencing our programme, and with Lyn making the appropriate arrangements, we are not able to be definite about the wines to be tasted. They will be chosen from the range produced by Crater Rim including their “From the Ashes” and Waipara ranges plus maybe one or two of the icon brands.
By the time we meet, hopefully, social distancing will be a thing of the past. We do however ask members to respect other people’s space and avoid close contact where possible. Will be great to get back into the tasting groove.
As you might expect, in the current Level 4 Emergency status, your club has effectively gone into adjournment, albeit your committee continues to communicate and make plans for the year ahead.
Our April tasting with The Crater Rim has been deferred and we are considering the Level 4 impact on the whole AGM process. Our club rules require us to give 3 weeks’ notice of our AGM which we will do as soon as it is practical to do so. However, if this means we will be holding the meeting after May [a possibility] then that will breach the time requirements set out in our constitution/club rules. Whilst we don’t do that lightly, there is no way we can comply with those rules in the L4 environment. We can’t even conduct a Special AGM to change the club rules so we are between a rock and a hard place and just need to be practical.”
We are considering if there is some way we could have a remote AGM. Your committee has held a meeting on Zoom but there would be too many for that approach. We continue to think through options and will keep you in touch.
With tasting rooms closed for the COVID-19 crisis, wineries are dealing with slumping sales; meanwhile, spring is arriving in the vineyards.
Germany and Austria have not been immune to the ravaging effects of the coronavirus pandemic. As of March 31, Germany reported 68,180 confirmed cases, fifth highest in the world, while Austria had confirmed 10,038 cases. Neither country has imposed a complete lockdown, instead opting for strict social distancing measures for now.
For vintners, the shutdowns have added new challenges as they ready the vineyards for the growing season and tend their young wines, all while following strict social guidelines. Meanwhile, they confront a devastating business situation, as many of their sales channels close.
Germany
On March 22, the German government banned public gatherings of more than two people except for families and people who live together. Exercising outside is still allowed if there are 5 feet between participants. Schools and “nonessential” businesses are also closed. Restaurants can only offer food-to-go.
“Everything is closed, and group events are not allowed. Only grocery stores and pharmacies are open,” said Gernot Kollmann, winemaker and proprietor at Immich-Batterieberg in Mosel.
Although agriculture is considered essential, the current rules, in place until at least April 6, are affecting the normal workflow for most wineries. “The rules affect two areas in particular: sales and work in the vineyards,” said Sophie Christmann of A. Christmann in Pfalz. “The fact that the gastronomy is closed everywhere will certainly hit us hard,” she warned.
“Around 50 per cent of our sales are exported in more than 40 countries, and of course, it’s getting calm in the last two weeks,” said winery owner Philipp Wittmann in Rheinhessen.
Indeed, most wineries are reporting little to no sales. Tasting rooms are closed to the public, but they can still make sales—either in person or online. “Wineries who have a good online concept and a decent number of private customers can still do business,” said Andrea Wirsching of Hans Wirsching in Franken.
Johannes Hasselbach stands in the Gunderloch cellars. Few people can work in the small space right now with social distancing rules. (Chris Janik)
Johannes Hasselbach of Gunderloch in Rheinhessen has started online tastings. “We send out a box of wine to private customers, and then we taste them together in a video conference,” he said. “It is quite funny to have 25 people who don’t know each other in a virtual tasting room.”
However, for most wineries, private client sales account for a small percentage of income. “We only have 3-percent private customer business,” said Kollmann.
The hardship of not having enough cash flow is already manifesting. “I have no idea what happens next, said vintner Eva Fricke in Rheingau. She sat down with two of her employees and they collectively decided that they are better off filing for unemployment. “The German social system is strong and safe, so while it is shitty, in the end it, seems better for them—less salary, but safe.”
“Some wineries are filing for Kurzarbeit, which means short work,” explained Andreas Spreitzer, referring to a government-funded program where companies keep employees, who agree to temporarily work for less pay and lower hours but stay in their jobs. The government helps make up for some lost income. First employed in 2009, the program saved more than 300,000 jobs during that recession, according to the German Federal Employment Agency. Spreitzer is fortunate to have 30 percent of income coming from private sales, so he will continue to pay his workers for now.
Restaurant closures affect outstanding bills, too. Many wineries are still awaiting payments. “We see the big customers struggle,” said Wirsching. “We have given all our restaurant clients time until the end of the year to pay their bills. They need support now since we still have business, and they don’t.” But not all wineries can afford that without government aid.
Sebastian Fürst plows one of his steep vineyards in Franken. Vineyard work continues, with workers staying two meters apart. (Photo courtesy of Rudolf Fürst)
Worsening the situation is the fact that nature doesn’t stop. Work in cellars and the vineyards must continue. Social distancing only complicates things. “We work in five teams in the vineyard and the cellar, and the teams don’t meet,” reported Sebastian Fürst of Rudolf Fürst in Franken. “In the vineyard, it is no big problem to keep 2 meters distance. In the cellar, sometimes it is more complicated.”
Work in the vineyards will only get more hectic as the temperatures rise and days get longer. And most wineries rely on the help of foreign seasonal workers, who are now not allowed to cross the border. “We hope that foreign workers will be available again from May, at the latest June,” said Hansjörg Rebholz of Ökonomierat Rebholz in Pfalz.
There might be some solutions. Sophie Christmann shared that some restaurant workers who would like to help have contacted her. Since the restaurants are closed, sommeliers and other food industry staff are looking for work.
As the torture of an unknown future continues, the fear rises. “The situation is quite scary, especially because there is no end in sight, and we might not even have reached the peak yet,” said Franziska Schmitt of Koehler-Ruprecht in Pfalz.
Austria
The situation in Austria is not much better. Since March 16, Austrians are not permitted to enter public spaces except for pharmacies, grocery stores and places with ATMs. Only supermarkets and food delivery services are open for those looking for food. Groups of more than five people cannot gather in public. Those who do not comply face fines of up to €3,600.
The borders with Italy and Switzerland have been shut, with train and air travel significantly cut back. Some cities are completely closed. “The situation in Austria is getting worse. There are more and more positively tested people in our immediate surroundings. Many places, such as Tyrol, are completely closed,” said Theresa Pichler, daughter of Rudi Pichler, renowned Wachau winemaker.
“Last weekend, there was the apricot blossom in the Wachau valley,” said Josef Fischer of his eponymous estate in Wachau. “It is usually the busiest time here. People from all over Austria, especially Vienna, come here to see that, take pictures and visit restaurants and wineries. This year, there were barely any tourists.”
Vintners are facing the same difficulties as those in Germany. “Sales have come to almost a complete halt,” said Dr. Bertold Salomon of Salomon-Undhof in Kremstal. “But we intend to hold on to all our employees.”
“Many people are applying for government benefits or Kurzarbeit,” said winemaker Martin Nittnaus. “I think the Austrian government is doing a fairly OK job.” He added that most wineries are selling their wine online, but that the retailers complain. “We also have been sending out orders, but it’s just a drop in the bucket, because most of our sales are to ski resorts and high-quality restaurants,” he concluded.
Sattlerhof and Tement started doing online tasting series from their tasting rooms, where they allow customers to virtually taste together.
One fortunate thing is that some foreign workers are still allowed entry. “Our Hungarian workers are still allowed to cross the border for the vineyard work,” said winery owner Judith Beck in Burgenland. Pichler added that their Slovakian employees stayed with the family so that the vineyard work can go on. “Nature knows no COVID-19,” she said.
Winemakers are trying to remain optimistic. “For the wines, some more time in the cellar or in the bottle before sale is for sure very positive,” said Ewald Tscheppe of Werlitsch in Styria. “Personally, I hope people can stay positive in these times and use the time to realize what really matters.”
The first vintage produced by The Crater Rim was from a small hillside vineyard, high above the town of Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula – and so the brand ‘The Crater Rim’ was born.
The Banks Peninsula has a far-reaching effect on the climate of the whole Canterbury province, and so we have carried The Crater Rim brand to encompass all the wines we produce from the Canterbury sub-regions of Waipara, Omihi and Banks Peninsula and from Central Otago.
The winery produces in three ranges:
This is going to maintain the high standard of tastings for 2020. Don’t miss it.
Lyn is a Sales Rep who works independently and has represented The Crater Rim for just over 3 years. She says “They are a wonderful family and team to work with and I have grown their brand extensively in the Top of the South Island and the Lower North Island. My background is in retail, sales and marketing and I thoroughly enjoy my job (and their wine!)”
A great presentation from Guillaume with assistance from Esther. There was a good turnout of members and Maison Noire was more than happy with the level of the orders. A little glitch with getting some orders to members, but this is about sorted now.
Guillaume Thomas and Esther Smith of Maison Noire – Feb 2020
Guillaume has concentrated on bringing out those aspects of the wine that were very reminiscent of France & presented:
2018 Maison Noire Rosé
2019 Maison Noire Arneis
2015 Maison Noire Sauvignon Blanc
2018 Maison Noire Chardonnay
2015 Maison Noire Cabernet Franc
2016 Maison Noire Cabernet Merlot
2016 Maison Noire Syrah
An interesting aspect of the night was that members were able to pay directly to Maison Noire. The marvels of modern technology, particularly when it comes to taking your money from you.
This is a full-day excursion, leaving Wellington Railway Station at 9.55 am and arriving back at 6.30 pm.
Details of train and bus connections, and any costs that that might entail, are included below. The day begins with tastings from the above three wineries. “grava” and Alana shares a cellar door. Not too much I can say about this, but see below for the timetable and expectations for the day, and tasting notes. A day full of fine wine and camaraderie. What more could you ask for?
40th Anniversary Trip to Martinborough, 21st March 2020
History in the bubbles: 105 and still loving her bubbly| Joelle Thomson – 16/12/19
(This item is something of a prelude to our proposed June tasting. It relates to Dawn Ibbotson who is the matriarch of the Ibbotson family who operates Saint Clair)
NB. It was with some sadness that I noted that Dawn passed away on 10 Jan after I had copied this item. Still, 105 is a great knock and enjoying a nice wine right up to the end can’t have been bad. Rest in Peace Dawn.
This month marks the 105th birthday of the woman who inspired one of New Zealand’s best bubblies made using the French traditional method, the same way that champagne is created.
The woman and the wine are called Dawn. The first vintage of Dawn was made from the 2012 vintage to mark its namesake’s 100th birthday in December 2014. Now, Dawn Ibbotson has turned 105 and her family says she enjoys a daily glass of the bubbly they made in her honour.
It’s a top bubbly in taste too, as our instore experts pick it as one of their favourites, year-round.
The wine is made from hand-harvested, whole bunch pressed grapes, which were fermented in a combination of stainless steel (the Chardonnay) and seasoned French oak barriques (the Pinot Noir). The two still wine components were then blended and bottle-fermented for three months to allow the carbon dioxide from the second fermentation to dissolve into the wine, creating its fine bubbles. It was then left on tirage (lees) for thirty-nine months until disgorgement.
Story of the name Saint Clair…bubb
The Ibbotson family who founded Saint Clair Winery named it after the original landowners of their Marlborough vineyards, the Sinclair family. Saint Clair is also the name of a suburb in Dunedin, hometown to the Ibbotson’s and to Dawn.
Dawn is made from…
Vines are grown on stone and sandy alluvial soils on Rapaura Road, Marlborough; overlooked by Saint Clair Vineyard Kitchen. It contains 6 grams of residual sugar per litre; off-dry, but only just, in other words. This wine tastes dry from the first sip to the last, lingering sparkling drop.
Pernod Ricard’s Kaituna wetlands project has seen large numbers of natives planted | Derek Flynn
Thousands of “forgotten corners” in Marlborough vineyards could be planted with native species, enriching the region’s biodiversity. That might require a change in mindset for growers who like their rows straight and their fence lines sprayed, says Marlborough District Council environmental scientist Matt Oliver.
But it would help mitigate the monoculture of Marlborough, he adds. “We have imposed our will on nature across the Wairau and Awatere Plains. The very least you can do is give up a bit of control in these little pockets of land.”
He describes forgotten corners as “the annoying space that every vineyard manager has in their vineyard, whether it’s a funny shaped piece that is not big enough for vines or a few sheep or a drain that you have to spray twice a year”.
Planting those areas in native grasses, flax and kowhai would cost a few hundred dollars. They will require a bit of weeding initially but this could be done in the time operators would have otherwise have spent backing the tractor in to spray, he says. “In a few years’ time, you might have tui in the kowhai and giant kokopu in the drain. You’ll find you’ve saved a bit of money and done something good. It might even make a good photo for your marketing.” Wine Marlborough advocacy manager Vance Kerslake says the organisation fully supports industry front-footing biodiversity projects.
“We sponsor the Cawthron Marlborough Environment Awards and love to see and promote the work being done by growers and wine companies to mitigate monoculture,” he says. “Industry members are increasingly seeing how important that is for the environment, primarily, but also how it adds richness to the story of individual companies, as well as the reputation of brand Marlborough.” MDC biodiversity coordinator Mike Aviss, who runs the Significant Natural Areas project, as well as Tui to Town, says the plains have lost 99 per cent of their natural cover since Europeans settled here. “All the drainable wetlands have virtually been drained, along with the kahikatea and swamp forest. This was once a huge wetland system.”
With every change in land use there’s loss of native land cover, he says. That is certainly true of vineyard conversions, which typically run in straight lines, putting creeks and trees at risk. “It really depends on how focused the developer is on wanting to get the most out of the land,” says Mike. “Whether they are driven by converting every inch to grapes, or see themselves as part of the landscape, and can see the value in keeping areas of natural habitat.”
Some companies already have biodiversity targets that include small pockets of new plantings or large expanses of restored natives, including Pernod Ricard’s Kaituna wetland, Wither Hills‘ nationally significant Rarangi wetland, and Spy Valley‘s Hillocks Rd restoration. “There are some pretty neat forgotten corners out there,” says Matt. “But there are so many more to develop.” The Forgotten Corners is not a council policy, but Council can assist with funding through the Tui to Town project and other funding to assist landowners. In the meantime, Matt and Mike hope vineyard owners will spring the $2.50 for a native grass or $3.50 for a kowhai and do their bit for biodiversity.
