An exclusive evening of excellent wines, delicious canapés and fantastic banter beaming right into your living room
As COVID-19 has altered the way both businesses and functions operate NZ-wide this year and next, the Hawkes Bay’s Winter FAWC celebrations were altered too.
FAWC notified all their regular attendees of a new event which was ‘FAWC Night In’. This was to be for an hour, 5-6 pm, on Saturday 15th August.
‘Gather up to 10 of our friends for an exclusive evening of excellent wine, delicious canapes and fantastic banter beaming right into your living room.’
The cost for people joining in for the virtual wine tasting was $250.00 for the hamper that held the contents for the tasting – this included five bottles of wine and the ingredients for the carefully matched canapes from the iconic Hawkes’s Bay Farmers’ Market and suppliers.
‘To discover the flavours of each of the wines, why different varietals have excelled in the varied terrain of Hawke’s Bay and to enjoy the witty tete-a-tete from the industry insiders.’
Our hamper arrived the Thursday before the event, and we refrigerated what contents needed to be in anticipation of Saturday! Along with the zoom meeting invite for the event.
So, we had:
5 x 75ml pours of wine
5 x bite-sized canapes
We had a lot of fun with this new format being tried out by region’s leading wineries and winemakers, the getting together with friends and the sharing:
Richard Painter – Te Awa Estate 2020 Cabernet Franc Rose’ – matching canape Origin Earth Takenga Gold Cheese with Berry Bees Manuka Comb Honey Tasting: strawberries, almost sweet but not too much Visually: blush in colourCanape brought out the saltiness in the wine – a really interesting match
Amy Hopkinson-Styles – Halcyon Days Wines 2019 Kotare Sauvignon Blanc/Gewurztraminer – matching canape Nieuwenhuis Goats Cheese on crackers Tasting: smooth on the palate, not the usual green apple taste, but pleasantly gooseberry-ish; had a small measure of pinot noir and gertz combined in it! Was quite a savoury taste Visually: pale yellow Canape was a well-matched selection.
Matt Kirby – Clearview Estate 2019 Chardonnay – matching canape Pig & Salt Pork Rillettes, Preserve & Co. Peach Chutney on Hapi Paelo Bread Tasting: highly anticipated as the last time we had this one at the Club is was from the first batch in new American Oak and tasted strongly of coffee! This brew was completely different and most enjoyable. It smelled and tasted like a buttery chardonnay – vegan friendly! Hand-harvested from their own block and naturally fermented Canape was a nice compliment to the wine.
Michael Henley – Smith and Sheth 2017 CRU Heretaunga Syrah – matching canape Pig & Salt Lamb Terrine with Hapi Paleo Bread Tasting: dark berries came through with a smooth-dry-ish after taste on the tongue – this had been a difficult vintage in the Bay to work with, but this could successfully be cellared for 7 years Visually: lovely dark red Canape was a nice compliment.
Julianne Brogden – Collaboration Wines 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon – matching canape Hapi Harore Cheese with OMG Cracker Tasting: blackberries on the tongue, most pleasant, this wine is 100% Cab Sauv from two sites Bridge Pa and Gravels and the grape variety is the last to ripen in the Bay. It has had two years in oak barrels and was very pleasant while being more sophisticated than the old Cab Sauv’s we remembered! This can be cellared for 10-12 years Visually: dark red Canape didn’t really enhance the wine any but was pleasant.
This was a strictly limited ticket numbers event, but I think we all felt it could have been a bit longer, as we enjoyed it so much! Would definitely recommend any upcoming events to members.
A full schedule of tastings, talks and new experiences
This is your chance to immerse yourself in the New Zealand wine scene and celebrate the growers and winemakers that have put this country on the vinous map
New to 2020: ‘Wine Blind’ tastings and your chance to sample some ultra-premium wines (these wines are usually found upwards of $100 per bottle) with our new ‘Golden Coin’ currency
Masterclasses with Bob Campbell (MW) and Joelle Thomson in Wellington
Egmont St Eatery will also have a pop-up restaurant within the event
Local band: Super Bad Soul Section will also round out the last hour of the show.
For the Cellar Club, organisers have thrown in a 10% discount which can be applied at checkout to any wine purchases by members from Lemongrass wine buying site winetree.co.nz – Code: treehugger10.
A list of the world’s 50 best vineyards for wine tourism has named a Central Otago and a Hawke’s Bay estate as being among the best, as voted by ‘The World’s Top Wine Tourism Destination Academy‘.
And those two Kiwi vineyards rank in the top 20 in the world in the list out today.
The World’s Best
The global list of wine tourism destinations named Argentina’s Zuccardi Valle de Uco in the top spot for the second year running.
Bodega Garzón in Uruguay was second for a consecutive year and Domäne Wachau in Austria jumped 16 places to claim the third spot this year.
New Zealand’s Best
But Central Otago’s Rippon, on the Wanaka-Mt Aspiring Rd, placed 13th and was also named the best vineyard in Australasia. The Hawke’s Bay’s Craggy Range was 17th best on the list. Last year, the biodynamic Rippon was in eighth place and Craggy Range was 11th.
Rippon, 2020 World’s Best Vineyard (13th)
@13 THE BEST VINEYARD IN AUSTRALASIA: Rippon Country: New Zealand Wine region: Central Otago Standout points: Jaw-droppingly beautiful views from the shore of Lake Wanaka; stunningly sleek biodynamic wines Winemaker: Nick Mills Wine style: Precise, site-specific noble varieties (Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gewürztraminer)
The list said Rippon had “jaw-droppingly beautiful views from the shore of Lake Wanaka, stunningly sleek biodynamic wines” from winemaker Nick Mills and “precise, site-specific noble varieties of Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer”.
Winter at Rippon
“What makes Rippon one of the most desirable estates in the world to visit? The wines, the views, and the people – in equal measure. Lake Wanaka, an ancient moraine lake, shimmering under the crystal light of a sunny Central Otago day must count as one of the most Instagrammable images on the planet. That Rippon maintains 15ha of vines in this immaculate landscape is wonder enough, but the quality and sense of place of its wholly estate-grown wines gives this little corner of heaven an extra special appeal,” the citation said.
Burgundy-trained fourth-generation Mills and his team were praised along with the organic and biodynamic methods and intensive handwork on display. “Rippon’s cellar door is open for small group tastings by uncharged appointment throughout the year. Expect to enjoy an informal yet informed tasting of some of the best wines of Central Otago as you’re guided through a selection of five or six Rippon wines by a switched-on member of the Rippon team, who will talk you through the farm, the family’s history and if you’re game, the arcane world of biodynamics,” the list said.
Craggy Range, 2020 World’s Best Vineyard (17th)
@17 Craggy Range Country: New Zealand Wine region: Hawke’s Bay Standout points: Stunning location in the shadow of Te Mata Peak; luxury boutique accommodation; award-winning restaurant Winemaker: Julian Grounds Wine style: Multi-region, site-specific wines, everything from aromatic whites to Bordeaux blends, and terroir Syrahs and Chardonnays
On the 17th-ranked Craggy Range, the list said it was in a “stunning location in the shadow of Te Mata Peak, luxury boutique accommodation; award-winning restaurant”. It cited winemaker: Julian Grounds and said wines were “everything from aromatic whites to Bordeaux blends, and terroir Syrahs and Chardonnays.
Terry and Mary Peabody & family
“Over the past 20 years, Terry and Mary Peabody have expended every possible effort to make Craggy Range an exceptional visitor experience. Whether it’s the cellar door, inspired by some of the Napa Valley’s leading wineries, the award-winning restaurant with 360-degree views of the local landscape, or Craggy Range’s exceptional boutique accommodation, expect nothing but the best in this beautiful little corner of Hawke’s Bay,” the list said of that operation established in 1998.
“When it came to establishing their vineyards, from the off Terry and Mary pursued an innovative multi-regional approach, focusing on the Gimblett Gravels in Hawke’s Bay, ideally suited to high-quality reds including Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and Te Muna Rd in Martinborough – better for Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc – to produce a range of wines that speak eloquently of their place,” the list said.
“On a typical cellar visit, former New Zealand sommelier of the year Michael Bancks greets guests at the door and begins the tour in the main cellar building, Sophia, where you learn the history of Craggy Range. Then it’s on to the subterranean barrel hall, The Quarry, where you will taste from the estate’s unreleased prestige collection wines still in the barrel.
The award-winning Craggy Range Restaurant
“From there, the tour moves on to the restaurant garden in the shadow of Te Mata peak. At the award-winning Craggy Range Restaurant, head chef Casey McDonald has devised a menu inspired by the elements and produced abundantly in Hawke’s Bay. Finally, it’s on to the sun terrace to enjoy a guided tasting of Craggy Range’s diverse multi-region range, with a variety of flight options available to suit each guest’s tastes,” the citation said.
The world’s best vineyards list is based on nominations from a voting academy made up of more than 500 wine experts, sommeliers, and travel correspondents from around the world. It aims to raise the profile of wine tourism and encourage travelers to enjoy wine-related experiences globally.
Robin Semmens presented with a wine box set from Wayne Kennedy
Last month we were finally able to hold the Club’s AGM and it was well attended with 32 members and 1 guest present. If you would like to read the President’s report, you will find this on the Club’s website. Changes to note from the meeting:
Robin Semmens was farewelled from the Committee and as newsletter Editor, although he stays in the Club
Evelyn Dawson is the new Editor of the Newsletter
Steve Eades is now not on the Committee either but is still managing the Club’s website
We are meeting as usual on 12 August at the Johnsonville Community Hall, Ground Floor for an 8 pm starts with Confidant Wines, a small (boutique) local importer of Portuguese wines in Wellington distributing the well-regarded Casa Santos Lima winery and a range of notable NZ wineries that are available in selected retail outlets and a number of Wellington restaurants.
Victor Kattenbelt has been around the Wellington wine scene for a number of years and travels to Europe every year (even early 2020), for wine trade expos in France, Netherlands and Germany, and to visit his suppliers in Portugal.
Victor’s Portuguese portfolio is extensive, and some of his wines this time round are new to his portfolio and we have decided to expand the tasting to 8 wines for the tasting to do justice to his wide range and to celebrate our European tasting country of the year.
If you are interested in doing more reading see Casa Santos Lima winery. The wines for the evening are:
A Portuguese bubble – Casa Santos Bruto [NV] to begin the evening
2018 Galodoro Rose
2016 VK Gewurztraminer (NZ)
2018 Linden Estate Chardonnay (NZ)
Then an array of 4 unique Portuguese reds:
2017 Bons Ventos
2017 Confidencial Red
2018 Valcatrina
and to finish a superb Alicante Bouschet premium red
The member door price will be $15 and guest price $18.
By Walt Dickson. First published in Wairarapa Lifestyle Magazine, Winter 2020.
The new owner of Gladstone Vineyard Eddie McDougall, also known as the Flying Winemaker. PHOTO/EMMA BROWN
Contrary to what the name might suggest, The Flying Winemaker doesn’t own a plane, nor does he hold a pilot’s licence. But there is sincerity in Eddie McDougall’s moniker, yes, he does literally jet in to make the wine.
Born in Hong Kong, based in Australia, Eddie might be relatively new on the scene in Wairarapa, but he is an established name in other parts of the world; an award-winning winemaker, chairman of the Asian Wine Review, wine judge and TV personality behind one of Asia-Pacific’s most dynamic wine brands, The Flying Winemaker.
He swooped into the region in late 2018 buying the Gladstone Vineyard with lofty ambitions to make the best and most expensive wine in New Zealand.
Last year, his first vintage, he made two special wines at Gladstone that he says, will turn heads when they’re released: a field blend of three aromatic white varietals and an icon Pinot Noir that will be positioned as ‘New Zealand’s most expensive wine and best pinot’.
Eddie grew up in Brisbane and was studying for a business degree and working as a waiter in the early 2000s when he had a wine epiphany one night. Someone handed him a glass of Alsace pinot blanc and he was hooked. He enrolled in a winemaking degree and worked vintages across Australia and Italy. In 2009, he launched his wine label, making wine in the King Valley (Victoria), and later, Margaret River (Western Australia), buying fruit and leasing space in other people’s wineries.
His big break came in 2009, when he moved back to Hong Kong to set up the city’s first urban winery, shipping frozen grapes in from Europe and Australia. That’s when he earned his Flying Winemaker name, attracting the attention of television producers. Fast-track to 2018 and he was again looking for opportunities, initially in Australia, but when nothing caught his fancy, he looked across the Tasman.
‘I was happy to go wherever good wine is made, and Gladstone ticked all the right boxes
Making it such a great acquisition was that at Gladstone, all the ‘really hard work’ has been done, he says. ‘We believe that it is still the oldest white wine vineyard in the area – the first Sauvignon Blanc grapes were planted in 1986’.
Pinot Gris and Riesling have also since been planted, and instead of making three wines, Eddie makes a blend of all three.
‘Coming here we want to represent the region, and on a brand, level to represent what our true unique selling point is …we think we can make some serious, serious wines’.
In addition to the winery site, Gladstone Vineyard also owns considerably larger blocks of vines at nearby Dakin Road, as well as leasing crops from other growers. It is from the Dakins Road block that Eddie hopes to produce his icon Pinot Noir – to be called The Wairarapa – which he says will be the most definitive wine of the region, only made in the best possible years, 2019 is one of them.
The Flying Winemaker Team
With a global team based in Hong Kong and currently exporting throughout Asia, Australia, Norway, UK and USA, the sky is the limit. But he is not ignoring the domestic market and is determined to continue Gladstone Vineyard’s reputation for hosting terrific events.
Building on the success of the nearby Harvest Festive, Eddie aims to run up to four events a year at the winery. Exactly what they will be and when, wine lovers won’t want to miss out if his super cool Rose’ Revolutions, a mainstay on the calendar in Asia, are anything to go by.
Meanwhile, if you are in the neighbourhood, the cellar door is open daily from 11 am – 5 pm (except public holidays), but don’t expect to see Eddie, after all, when you have wings you gotta fly.
Wednesday 12 August – Victor Kattenbelt of Confidant Wines
Wednesday 16 September – Alan Evans and Ageing of quality wines
Wednesday 21 October – St Clair Family Estate, Marlborough
Wednesday 18 November – Club Anniversary dinner at Bellamy’s (run by Logan Brown)
December tbc
An invitation
Now that we’re past the shortest day/longest night of the year for this Equinox, if anyone would like supply a short article about their ‘Drop of the Day’, i.e. their go-to wine for this season, to share with the rest of the Club, please feel free to submit it.
Subscriptions are due 1st July and usually confirmed at the AGM. An additional wrinkle is that we won’t be having a July dinner so the opportunity to pay your subscription with the dinner payment has also been lost.
So to make things easier this year, it has been agreed that the subscription will remain at $25 and you will be asked to pay it directly into our bank account – 06 0541 0056031 00.
Wayne will send out an email requesting payment much closer to the date.
Note: Arrangements are well in hand for August and September so don’t be alarmed. We will provide details as soon as possible. Both will be great events, trust us.
The Crater Rim Ltd is a family-owned boutique winery situated in the rolling hills of Waipara, in the South Island of New Zealand. They grow, make and market limited quantities of terroir-specific wines produced from their own two vineyards and contracted sites in the Canterbury sub-regions of Waipara, Omihi and Banks Peninsula and in Central Otago.
These sites have been carefully selected for their particular mix of varietal, topography, soil and microclimate – creating high quality, site-specific wines of individual character and drinkability. The Crater Rim manage their own vineyards and work closely with each grower to ensure that vines are cropped low and managed sustainably, guaranteeing the best quality fruit possible from each vineyard site.
The result is exceptional wines from exceptional regions. So many good wines that we may try 8 for the tasting. Remember to drink sensibly if you are driving.
Lyn is a Sales Rep who works independently and has represented The Crater Rim for just over 3 years. She says “They are a wonderful family and team to work with and I have grown their brand extensively in the top of the South Island and the lower North Island. As mentioned previously, her background is in retail and marketing, but she thoroughly enjoys both marketing and drinking the Crater Rim product.
Because of uncertainty about recommencing our programme, and with Lyn making the appropriate arrangements, we are not able to be definite about the wines to be tasted. They will be chosen from the range produced by Crater Rim including their “From the Ashes” and Waipara ranges plus maybe one or two of the icon brands.
By the time we meet, hopefully, social distancing will be a thing of the past. We do however ask members to respect other people’s space and avoid close contact where possible. Will be great to get back into the tasting groove.
As you might expect, in the current Level 4 Emergency status, your club has effectively gone into adjournment, albeit your committee continues to communicate and make plans for the year ahead.
Our April tasting with The Crater Rim has been deferred and we are considering the Level 4 impact on the whole AGM process. Our club rules require us to give 3 weeks’ notice of our AGM which we will do as soon as it is practical to do so. However, if this means we will be holding the meeting after May [a possibility] then that will breach the time requirements set out in our constitution/club rules. Whilst we don’t do that lightly, there is no way we can comply with those rules in the L4 environment. We can’t even conduct a Special AGM to change the club rules so we are between a rock and a hard place and just need to be practical.”
We are considering if there is some way we could have a remote AGM. Your committee has held a meeting on Zoom but there would be too many for that approach. We continue to think through options and will keep you in touch.
With tasting rooms closed for the COVID-19 crisis, wineries are dealing with slumping sales; meanwhile, spring is arriving in the vineyards.
Germany and Austria have not been immune to the ravaging effects of the coronavirus pandemic. As of March 31, Germany reported 68,180 confirmed cases, fifth highest in the world, while Austria had confirmed 10,038 cases. Neither country has imposed a complete lockdown, instead opting for strict social distancing measures for now.
For vintners, the shutdowns have added new challenges as they ready the vineyards for the growing season and tend their young wines, all while following strict social guidelines. Meanwhile, they confront a devastating business situation, as many of their sales channels close.
Germany
On March 22, the German government banned public gatherings of more than two people except for families and people who live together. Exercising outside is still allowed if there are 5 feet between participants. Schools and “nonessential” businesses are also closed. Restaurants can only offer food-to-go.
“Everything is closed, and group events are not allowed. Only grocery stores and pharmacies are open,” said Gernot Kollmann, winemaker and proprietor at Immich-Batterieberg in Mosel.
Although agriculture is considered essential, the current rules, in place until at least April 6, are affecting the normal workflow for most wineries. “The rules affect two areas in particular: sales and work in the vineyards,” said Sophie Christmann of A. Christmann in Pfalz. “The fact that the gastronomy is closed everywhere will certainly hit us hard,” she warned.
“Around 50 per cent of our sales are exported in more than 40 countries, and of course, it’s getting calm in the last two weeks,” said winery owner Philipp Wittmann in Rheinhessen.
Indeed, most wineries are reporting little to no sales. Tasting rooms are closed to the public, but they can still make sales—either in person or online. “Wineries who have a good online concept and a decent number of private customers can still do business,” said Andrea Wirsching of Hans Wirsching in Franken.
Johannes Hasselbach stands in the Gunderloch cellars. Few people can work in the small space right now with social distancing rules. (Chris Janik)
Johannes Hasselbach of Gunderloch in Rheinhessen has started online tastings. “We send out a box of wine to private customers, and then we taste them together in a video conference,” he said. “It is quite funny to have 25 people who don’t know each other in a virtual tasting room.”
However, for most wineries, private client sales account for a small percentage of income. “We only have 3-percent private customer business,” said Kollmann.
The hardship of not having enough cash flow is already manifesting. “I have no idea what happens next, said vintner Eva Fricke in Rheingau. She sat down with two of her employees and they collectively decided that they are better off filing for unemployment. “The German social system is strong and safe, so while it is shitty, in the end it, seems better for them—less salary, but safe.”
“Some wineries are filing for Kurzarbeit, which means short work,” explained Andreas Spreitzer, referring to a government-funded program where companies keep employees, who agree to temporarily work for less pay and lower hours but stay in their jobs. The government helps make up for some lost income. First employed in 2009, the program saved more than 300,000 jobs during that recession, according to the German Federal Employment Agency. Spreitzer is fortunate to have 30 percent of income coming from private sales, so he will continue to pay his workers for now.
Restaurant closures affect outstanding bills, too. Many wineries are still awaiting payments. “We see the big customers struggle,” said Wirsching. “We have given all our restaurant clients time until the end of the year to pay their bills. They need support now since we still have business, and they don’t.” But not all wineries can afford that without government aid.
Sebastian Fürst plows one of his steep vineyards in Franken. Vineyard work continues, with workers staying two meters apart. (Photo courtesy of Rudolf Fürst)
Worsening the situation is the fact that nature doesn’t stop. Work in cellars and the vineyards must continue. Social distancing only complicates things. “We work in five teams in the vineyard and the cellar, and the teams don’t meet,” reported Sebastian Fürst of Rudolf Fürst in Franken. “In the vineyard, it is no big problem to keep 2 meters distance. In the cellar, sometimes it is more complicated.”
Work in the vineyards will only get more hectic as the temperatures rise and days get longer. And most wineries rely on the help of foreign seasonal workers, who are now not allowed to cross the border. “We hope that foreign workers will be available again from May, at the latest June,” said Hansjörg Rebholz of Ökonomierat Rebholz in Pfalz.
There might be some solutions. Sophie Christmann shared that some restaurant workers who would like to help have contacted her. Since the restaurants are closed, sommeliers and other food industry staff are looking for work.
As the torture of an unknown future continues, the fear rises. “The situation is quite scary, especially because there is no end in sight, and we might not even have reached the peak yet,” said Franziska Schmitt of Koehler-Ruprecht in Pfalz.
Austria
The situation in Austria is not much better. Since March 16, Austrians are not permitted to enter public spaces except for pharmacies, grocery stores and places with ATMs. Only supermarkets and food delivery services are open for those looking for food. Groups of more than five people cannot gather in public. Those who do not comply face fines of up to €3,600.
The borders with Italy and Switzerland have been shut, with train and air travel significantly cut back. Some cities are completely closed. “The situation in Austria is getting worse. There are more and more positively tested people in our immediate surroundings. Many places, such as Tyrol, are completely closed,” said Theresa Pichler, daughter of Rudi Pichler, renowned Wachau winemaker.
“Last weekend, there was the apricot blossom in the Wachau valley,” said Josef Fischer of his eponymous estate in Wachau. “It is usually the busiest time here. People from all over Austria, especially Vienna, come here to see that, take pictures and visit restaurants and wineries. This year, there were barely any tourists.”
Vintners are facing the same difficulties as those in Germany. “Sales have come to almost a complete halt,” said Dr. Bertold Salomon of Salomon-Undhof in Kremstal. “But we intend to hold on to all our employees.”
“Many people are applying for government benefits or Kurzarbeit,” said winemaker Martin Nittnaus. “I think the Austrian government is doing a fairly OK job.” He added that most wineries are selling their wine online, but that the retailers complain. “We also have been sending out orders, but it’s just a drop in the bucket, because most of our sales are to ski resorts and high-quality restaurants,” he concluded.
Sattlerhof and Tement started doing online tasting series from their tasting rooms, where they allow customers to virtually taste together.
One fortunate thing is that some foreign workers are still allowed entry. “Our Hungarian workers are still allowed to cross the border for the vineyard work,” said winery owner Judith Beck in Burgenland. Pichler added that their Slovakian employees stayed with the family so that the vineyard work can go on. “Nature knows no COVID-19,” she said.
Winemakers are trying to remain optimistic. “For the wines, some more time in the cellar or in the bottle before sale is for sure very positive,” said Ewald Tscheppe of Werlitsch in Styria. “Personally, I hope people can stay positive in these times and use the time to realize what really matters.”
