Looking Back – Askerne Vineyard, June 23

John Loughlin from Askerne Vineyard presented to us last month, and he was very pleasantly surprised to find 45 members and guests attending. We have to go way back to 2010 to find that number exceeded, so thank you, everyone, for supporting us with your presence.

John explained that Askerne now has 32ha to grow the 17 varieties of grapes that he and his wife now cultivate, and whilst Askerne is right beside the Tukituki River, they were spared the full force of Cyclone Gabrielle. It could easily have been much worse, as the water rose to 30cm below the top of their stop bank!

Their cellar door is now open 24/7, and John said please visit if you are up in Hawkes Bay for some tastings, He went on to explain that whilst we weren’t tasting these on the night, he felt their Pinot Gris was looking really smart, and their Pinot Noir really good too.

The wines tasted on the night were:

  • 2022 Sérieux Rosé – the welcome wine
  • 2020 Semillon
  • 2022 Reserve Chardonnay
  • 2021 Gewurztraminer
  • Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc
  • 2021 Cabernet Franc
  • 2019 Late Harvest Semillon

And it was pleasing to note that the quality of these wines was reflected in the excellent number of wines orders received on the night.

So, thanks again to everyone for your support and a special thanks for John for his well delivered tasting presentation.

Club Mid-Winter Dinner, July 23

1st Floor, Woolstore Building, 262 Thorndon Quay, Wellington

Please arrive at 7 pm, no later than 7:15 pm

Where you will be greeted with a glass of Club bubbles

This is a b.y.o. event, so please bring along your best French wine, or two, from your cellars, plus to enhance the atmosphere for the evening, dress with a little je ne sais quoi in red, white and blue!

Below is a reminder of the menu for the evening, noting that you have previously selected your Main course and sent this to Wayne [he will be emailing all attendees to make sure he has recorded your choice correctly and to advise you of your seating number] :

Entrée

3 mini entrees served to each person
(Quiche Lorraine, one soup, mini goat cheese salad)

Mains

Beef Bourguignon
Monkfish with Saffron Sauce
Chicken Provencal

Dessert

3 mini desserts in the style of petite fours

Public transport

If you would like to catch public transport for the evening, please note:

  • Nearby is the motorway overpass and just south of that is bus stop 5492 which is used by bus routes 1, 19e, 24, 25, 26, 52, 56, 57, 58, 60e and 83.
  • When it comes to going home, you can use bus stop 5024 just north of the  motorway overpass. So again, just a short distance away.

Mermaidary tackles the tricky topic of what wines to chill and by how much

Wine News – Imbibe from NZ House & Garden April 2023

Sparkling and sweet wines such as champagne and late harvests - 6-10C
Sparkling and sweet wines such as champagne
and late harvests – 6-10C

Mermaidary tackles the tricky topic of what wines to chill and by how much.

What temperature should you serve wine? The topic can be controversial. I have heard gasps of horror when pulling a bottle of chardonnay from the rack, opening and pouring it – bypassing the fridge. I prefer medium to full-bodied white wines at room temperature. And you can imagine the horror when I take a red wine from the fridge because I like reds slightly chilled, flying in the face of ‘the rules for how wine should be served.

The accepted serving temperatures are listed below, but I regularly flout those rules. I like my sparkling whites colder than 6C, which is a cardinal wine sin, but I find it gives the bubbles more vigour. I also enjoy reds when they are well below 13C, as it gives the wine more structure and definition.

In fact, in hotter climates such as in Australia, drinking red chilled is standard practice. Australian wine icon Taylors recently put a wine temperature sensor on its bottles which changes colour when the bottle reaches its optimum level of chill.

One place that always seems to get it wrong is your local bar or restaurant. Bar fridges are set to a standard temperature so juice, wine, beer and even milk are all stored in the same fridge at the same temperature. This means medium-bodied wines, in particular, can be served much too cold, which deadens the wonderful aromatics present in the wine. Red wines are invariably stored on a shelf in direct sunlight or near the warm kitchen. So, the best expression of your favourite wine might not be from your local eatery.

While there are guidelines, the perfect temperature is simply the one that you enjoy best. So open a bottle and you do you.

Agreed serving temperatures

Sparkling and sweet wines such as champagne and late harvests – 6-10C

Roses and light-bodied whites such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris – 8-10C

Medium full-bodied whites such as Chardonnay and Albarino – 10-13C

Light-bodied reds such as Pinot Noir – 10-13C

Medium to full-bodied reds such as Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon – 10-13C

Looking Back, Confident Wines with Victor Kattenbel, April ’23

Wow, nine wines! This was an interesting evening full of updated information about the Esk Valley region and touching on areas of Portugal that most members present haven’t been to yet.

The variety of wines was great, beginning with Linden Sparkling Rose’ from Esk Valley, a blend of Merlot and Pinotage, a delicious start to the evening. The rest of the evening’s selection was:

  • Confidencial Reserva Rose –10-grape blend
  • 2020 Casa Santos Lima Chardonnay
  • 2022 Moutere Hills Riesling
  • 2020Waipara Downs Pinot Noir
  • 2020 Confidencial Tinto-Red  – 10 grape blend
  • 2019 Mosaico De Portugal
  • 2017 Colossal Reserva Casa Santos Lima
  • Parcelas Portuguese Tawny Port

Most of the wines for the evening had received at least one gold medal in competitions, with some receiving ten gold medals.

Askerne, Hawkes Bay with John Loughlin, June ’23

Wednesday 14th June, 8 pm Start | Door Price: Members $12 / Guests $16

Askerne Estate Winery commenced in April 1993 when wine lovers John and Kathryn Loughlin purchased the original 11.6 hectares site in Te Mata
Mangateretere Road. John and Kathryn had studied winemaking and viticulture in the previous years, with Kathryn, as the more diligent student, achieving the higher grades.

They called the property Askerne, being the olde English name of Kathryn’s birthplace, Askern, in Yorkshire, England.

John took up the role of Finance Manager of the large Richmond Limited meat company to provide the finance for the developing wine venture, and Kathryn assumed management of the vineyard operations.

Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in late 1993, Semillon and Riesling in 1994, Chardonnay in 1995 and Gewürztraminer in 1996. The first wines were made at the Waimarama Estate Winery (then owned by Dr John Loughlin, John’s father) in 1996. These wines were released under their initial white label with green trees.

2015 Rebecca, the second Loughlin daughter joined the Askerne team working in the cellar door.
2015 Rebecca, the second Loughlin daughter joined the Askerne team working in the cellar door.

In February 1997, the Askerne cellar door was opened to the public, and it also sold Waimarama Estate’s red wines, including the then-famous Waimarama Dessert Cabernet.

The 1997 vintage produced very fine wines from Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay which confirmed the potential of the site.

Askerne commenced exporting with wines from the 1997 vintage and in 1998 Dr John Loughlin sold Waimarama Estate Winery and from the 1999 vintage Askerne’s wines were made on site.

John last presented to the Club in February 2019 and his presentation was a delight, both because of his delivery and the wines themselves. This month’s tasting promises to be equally compelling as we get the chance to taste the following wines:

  • 2022 Askerne Sérieux Rosé
  • 2020 Askerne Sémillon
  • 2022 Askerne Reserve Chardonnay
  • 2021 Askerne Gewürztraminer
  • Askerne Merlot Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2021 Askerne Cabernet Franc
  • 2019 Askerne Late Harvest Sémillon

This selection of Hawkes Bay wines promises a lot and I’m sure we will not be disappointed by their taste or quality. Make sure you are there to find out which will be your favourite.

PhD Précis: Lucie Jiraska

Winegrower Staff Reporters | 13 April 2023

Lucie Jiraska. Photo Credit: Sarah Knight
Lucie Jiraska. Photo Credit: Sarah Knight

Lucie Jiraska clearly recalls her first taste of wine, unimpressed by her grandpa’s Cabernet Moravia.

Now she’s working with Auckland University’s Biological Sciences department studying the effect of management on soil biodiversity in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough vineyards.

What drew you to studying soil in New Zealand vineyards?

I was five when my grandpa, a hobby winemaker from the south of the Czech Republic, thought it was about time for me to have my first sip of wine. I vividly remember him being so proud of that batch. The cold of the cellar was seeping through my summer clothes, as he ceremonially withdraw the wine from one of the barrels and I was presented with a tiny glass containing less than a sip of dark ruby liquid. My grandma was strongly arguing against it, but my grandpa was adamant. I took a sip, my face twisted into a forced smile, and I thought, what is this adult madness and why is everyone pretending they like it? I did not want to hurt my grandpa’s feelings, so I pretended I liked the wine as well, but for a long time after, I kept wondering what the wine industry was all about.

It took me another 15 years, and moving to Prague for my bachelor’s and master’s degree in molecular biology and microbiology, to actually start understanding the science behind fermentation, microbes and soils. From there, it was just a small step, supported by a portion of luck, to join the Vineyard Ecosystems (VE) Programme. I was looking for a PhD project right when my current PhD supervisors Professor Matthew Goddard and Dr Sarah Knight were advertising a position. I did not really have to think twice, and I am very happy that I made this decision to join it.

What has your research involved?

My research mostly focuses on the impact of agricultural management on soil microbial communities in vineyards from the Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough regions. I specifically researched how soil microbial communities differ between vineyards using synthetic herbicides and those with alternative undervine management, like cultivation or mowing. I also focused on direct impacts of synthetic and organic fungicides on soil microbes and changes to their functions in response to the application of fungicides.

As a microbial ecologist, I get to go out in the field to collect samples. Samples for the VE Programme were mostly collected by our colleagues at Plant & Food Research in Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough, but for other aligned projects I was collecting samples of soil, bark, fruit and/or leaves. While I enjoy being outdoors and sampling, a large part of my work is in the laboratory doing either DNA or RNA extractions from samples or using molecular techniques to understand what microbial communities live in our samples. Or I’m in front of a computer bioinformatically processing and statistically analysing the data. This is what I think the most exciting part is, as this is the step where the data begins to make sense and we can start answering our research questions

Who has helped you in your work?

Besides my amazing supervisors, Mat Goddard and Sarah Knight, I would like to acknowledge Beatrix Jones, Victoria Raw, Innocenter Amima, Jed Lennox, Paulina Giraldo-Perez and Soon Lee. And obviously all the winegrowers that allowed us to collect soils and access their sites for so many years!

What are some of the findings in your thesis?

The soil communities between vineyards are highly variable, more than between management regimes. While we found a small but significant effect of management regime on soil microbial composition, we are still in the process of understanding if these small differences do affect their function in the vineyard. Each vineyard seems to be a microbiome soil island where the history of the site is reflected in the soil community.

And while some of the synthetic fungicides we tested directly in the lab had no impact on the soil microbial community composition, we were able to find an impact on microbial function in these soils. Especially those that had a history of repeated exposure to pesticides. These findings suggest that soils do in fact have an “ecological memory”, so what you put in your soils matters, as it may influence how your vineyard responds in the future. However, at this stage we still have a very limited understanding on how it mechanistically works, as soils are extremely complex systems to study. Maybe one day we will be able to design management plans suited for each vineyard, not just generalised guidelines to follow.

Committee Musings, May ’23

Resignations

While there are two resignations from the present Committee, six people are staying on. Club members have been approached for new positions, and numbers are now back to eight for the new committee.

Member support

It was great to have everyone help with the tables and chairs at the start of last month’s meeting and take the same down after the meeting. Also, take the table’s contents: spittoons/water jugs/cracker plates back to the kitchen. Could we please continue this new routine?

Arrival times

We can’t arrive to do the setting up activities any earlier than 7:30 pm as we interrupt the cleaner(s) schedule; the cleaners are in the hall until 7:30 pm.

Looking ahead

  • June – Askerne, Hawkes Bay
  • July – Club Dinner, details tbc
  • August – Babich, details tbc

Looking Back – Victor Kattenbel, Confident Wines Apr ’23

Wow, nine wines!

This was an interesting evening full of updated information about the Esk Valley region and touching on areas of Portugal that most members present hadn’t been to, yet.

The variety of wines was great, beginning with Linden Sparkling Rosé from Esk Valley, a blend of Merlot and Pinotage, a delicious start to the evening. The rest of the evening’s selection was:

  • Confidencial Reserva Rosé – 10-grape blend
  • 2020 Casa Santos Lima Chardonnay
  • 2022 Moutere Hills Riesling
  • 2020 Waipara Downs Pinot Noir
  • 2020 Confidencial Tinto-Red – 10 grape blend
  • 2019 Mosaico De Portugal
  • 2017 Colossal Reserva Casa Santos Lima
  • Parcelas Portuguese Tawny Port

Most of the wines for the evening had received at least one gold medal in competitions, with some receiving 10 gold medals.

 

‘It was a bonfire’: More than 50 firefighters needed to combat winery blaze

Olivia Ireland smh | 24 March 2023

Tamburlaine Organic Wines before the fire.
Tamburlaine Organic Wines before the fire.

The main function venue at a Hunter region winery was engulfed by flames on Thursday night, taking more than 50 firefighters about 4½ hours to put it out.

NSW Rural Fire Service received calls regarding a possible fire at Tamburlaine Organic Wines on McDonald’s Road in Pokolbin at about 9.30 pm.

Inspector Ben Shepherd said that when crews drove towards the winery, they could see a large glow from the area and called in more firefighters.

“When crews arrived, one of the main structures was already alight,” he said.

Tamburlaine Organic Wines during the fire.
Tamburlaine Organic Wines during the fire.

“It was a very large building and, when you’re getting fires in more rural areas, water can be an issue.”

While there was a dam onsite, the structure was already well alight as crews were trying to relay water quickly and went into defensive firefighting.

“It took crews until after 2am and required more than 50 firefighters to put out the flames,” Shepherd said.

There were no reported injuries, but he said the main function area was “basically destroyed”.

The winery’s managing director Mark Davidson said a major storm came through about 6pm and the venue most likely attracted lightning as it had a tin roof.

The function venue at Tamburlaine Organic Wines in Pokolbin in the Hunter region was engulfed by flames on Thursday night. Image: NSW RFS
The function venue at Tamburlaine Organic Wines in Pokolbin in the Hunter region was engulfed by flames on Thursday night. Image: NSW RFS

“When we first came out, it was really not a building it was a bonfire,” he said.

“The investigators are looking into what they can see as evidence for what caused it, but it was too much of a coincidence that a domestic electrical storm preceded it by a short period of time.”

Davidson was in his home about 100 metres away from the building on fire and said he didn’t hear the flame because of the wind direction.

A Hunter region winery was engulfed by flames on Thursday night, taking more than 50 firefighters about four-and-a-half hours to put it out.

“Fortunately, some passer-by was able to alert the fire brigade and they were here before we could ring them; they were fantastic,” he said.

The immediate damage control for Davidson has been to rearrange weddings that had been booked for the weekend and coming weeks.

“This is wedding season, so we were more concerned about that and making sure that we contain the damage to just one building,” he said.

The building on the winery was mainly used for weddings and major functions. Davidson said they plan to rebuild it as soon as possible.

“We’ll move as quickly as we can to replace it, that’s my current thoughts,” he said.

Tamburlaine Organic Wines’ Hunter winery was purchased in 1985 and centres on creating organic, vegan-friendly wines.

Looking Ahead – April ’23

12 April – New Zealand and Portuguese Wines with Victor Kattenbelt, Confidant Wines. Check out…

10 May – Cellar Club AGM – The AGM Agenda was emailed with April’s newsletter. We would ask you to note that if you have any Notices of Motion, these need to be in the hands of the Secretary – Jenny Jebson – by 19th April ’23.

14 June – Askerne, Hawkes Bay

12 July – Club Dinner, details – TBC

 

Committee Musings, Apr ’23

Committee review

Your committee continues to review how it operates, particularly in trying to work out which tasks need to remain with the committee and which can be delegated.

This review is timely, given that two of the committee are stepping aside for the coming year, and we need to ensure that we have a good match of skills to match the roles being vacated.

This process will only work if members continue to provide us with their support when asked. Thanks.

Hall setup

We also continue to be delighted and thankful for everyone’s help with the hall setup for our gatherings and then the pack down at the end of the evening.

But please remember: We can’t arrive to do the setting up activities any earlier than 7:30 pm as we interrupt the cleaner(s) schedule, who has the hall until that time.

 

New Zealand and Portuguese Wines with Victor Kattenbelt, Confidant Wines

If you drilled down from New Zealand through the earth’s centre, where would you come out, Iberia? If it were not in Spain, it would level with the wine heart of Portugal.

Therefore, there must be something special that links the viticulture and the wines of our two countries.

Victor from Confidant Wines will present a mix of special boutique wines from New Zealand, some wonderful new wines from Portugal, and several repeated favourites.

This is your chance to try some new varieties and vineyards and support one Hawkes Bay vineyard (with a great sparkling Rosé) that was impacted after the devastation of Cyclone Gabrielle. The evening will take a small journey from Hawkes Bay to Nelson to Waipara in North Canterbury; and then to Portugal with an array of blended wines and, to finish, a Tawny Port. Be prepared to be impressed.

We will see the influence of terroir in Waipara wines, the influence of climate on Nelson wine, what makes Hawkes Bay special, and some delicious red styles from award-winning Casa Santos Lima vineyard in Portugal. The Portuguese selection will focus on new vintages and some previous wines that were very popular and still available. Do you remember Waipara Pinot Blanc? Something new, something known, gold medals, new vintages, comparisons and varieties to experience. This array of wines has been specially selected we believe to suit the members’ preferences for this tasting.

In summary, we will kick off with a Linden (NZ) Sparkling Rosé, followed by a Portuguese Rosé and two classic NZ white wines, Riesling and a Viognier or Chardonnay. We will then compare the new award winning Portuguese Confident red and a blended Mosaico red with a NZ Pinot Noir. We will conclude with a delicious Tawny Port from the home of all great ports.

We look forward to enjoying these wines with you. Please remember your tasting glasses.