Two parallel universes of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc exist: one in which quantities are measured in shipping-container units destined for grocery stores everywhere, the other where artisan winemakers work ceaselessly to demonstrate that terroir and craftsmanship can speak through one of the world’s most popular wine styles.
The latter being a more interesting place to live and drink, let’s take a look at the latest efforts of Appellation Marlborough, the group of more than 65 producers dedicated to evangelizing and showcasing the sub-regionality of New Zealand’s largest and most misunderstood wine appellation.
This group of producers, most of them small, has spent considerable effort seeking out, studying, and making wine from the many distinct areas of Marlborough, each with its own microclimates and geologies. The resulting wines demonstrate that not all Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is created equal.
Which is to say, not all of it is farmed conventionally to massive yields, harvested mechanically, deliberately worked a bit harder to increase those famous green flavors, fermented at low temperatures with thiol-driven yeast strains to further amplify tropicality, and left just slightly sweet for its millions of adoring fans around the world.
Savvy Artisans
The official subregional map of Marlborough courtesy of Appellation Marlborough
Instead, we have entered an age of single-vineyard–designated Sauvignon Blancs capable of expressing the nuances of site and vintage variation. Some of these wines are fermented in oak and built in a more classic French style for aging, while others are fermented with ambient or more neutral yeasts. All prove far more interesting than your typical $10 supermarket Savvy.
In the service of telling this story, the folks at Appellation Marlborough recently began assembling an annual collection of wines to send to writers and critics around the world, serving as ambassadors for this newer, more nuanced world of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.
Labeled the Appellation Marlborough Collection, this set of 12 wines was selected from more than 90 submissions through a blind tasting conducted by Stephen Wong MW and Cameron Douglas MS of New Zealand, and Toni Paterson MW of Australia.
Primarily featuring the 2025 vintage, the collection also includes a couple of wines each from 2024 and 2023.
One Helluva Vintage
A view of vineyards in the Wairau Valley
By all accounts, the 2025 vintage in Marlborough came as a welcome relief after several tough years in the region, which is still reeling from post-pandemic market fluctuations, challenging seasons in 2021 and 2023, swings from undersupply to oversupply, and a 2022 vintage that nearly went unpicked due to COVID lockdowns.
In contrast to those troubles, 2025 was about as serene as vintages get, with a mild spring, untroubled (if slightly early) flowering, and higher-than-average yields. What began as a warm summer turned cooler in January and February, extending the season and slowing ripening in ways that tend to get winemakers very excited and happily jabbering about flavor development and phenological ripeness.
In short, you would have had to take your eye off the ball considerably to make bad wine in 2025. Most producers seem positively delighted with the quality of their wines, and based on my tasting below, I would tend to agree.
These twelve wines are wonderful examples of the quality and individuality to be found in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, for those willing to take a little time, a bit of effort, and spend just a little more.
Tasting Notes
Not all of these wines are exported to the US, and in the case of one, not exported at all. I have made my best guess at what US pricing would be for those wines that are not easily found online.
Palest gold in color, this wine smells of blackcurrant leaf and lime zest with a hint of wet wool. In the mouth, stony flavors of lemon pith, green apple, black currant leaf, and wet wool have an interesting savory quality and a faintly chalky texture. Excellent acidity with a stony resonance in the finish. Regeneratively farmed fruit, 25-year-old vines, machine harvested. Fermented in stainless steel and matured on light lees. 13% alcohol. 2 g/l residual sugar. Closed with a screwcap. NZWG-certified sustainable. Vegan. Score: between 9 and 9.5.
2025 Clos Henri “Estate” Sauvignon Blanc, Central Wairau, Wairau, Marlborough, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon and pomelo pith mixed with a hint of green apple. In the mouth, wonderfully bright lime and lemon zest flavors have a faint salinity and a lovely wet pavement minerality. There’s a quivering electricity to this wine that is extremely compelling. A hint of passionfruit and green apple lingers in the finish. Certified organic grapes are machine harvested, and free run juice is fermented in stainless steel and ages for 3 months on the lees with battonage. 13.5% alcohol. Less than 1 g/l residual sugar. Closed with a screwcap. Score: between 9 and 9.5.
2025 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Wairau, Marlborough, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of passionfruit and guava with a hint of candied lime. In the mouth, crisp green apple and passionfruit flavors mix with a touch of lime zest. Very good acidity. Fermented in stainless steel with around 1.8% of the final blend fermented in large-format oak, and another portion fermented with ambient yeasts. 13.5% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. Score: between 8.5 and 9.
2023 Cloudy Bay “Te Koko” Sauvignon Blanc, Wairau, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of struck match, lemon, and lime pith, with a hint of crushed nuts. In the mouth, bright lemon peel, nut skin, and notes of vanilla mix with a silky texture and a touch of salinity. Excellent acidity and nice length. After pressing, the juice is settled for 24 hours and then racked into 7% new French oak barrels and large format cuves, where it ferments with a combination of ambient and commercial yeasts. It then ages for 11 months on the fine lees in a combination of vessels, including small and large-format barrels as well as concrete. 13.5% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. Score: around 9.
2023 Greywacke “Wild” Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of citrus pith and a hint of roasted nuts. In the mouth, mouthwatering flavors of crushed nuts, lemon peel, pomelo pith, and wet chalkboard have a lovely, faint salinity to them and a hint of toasted oak that lingers in the finish. A mix of machine and hand harvesting fruit, which is then lightly pressed and cold settled before being fermented with ambient yeasts in oak barrels, a “small percentage of which” were new. Fermentation lasted nearly 6 months, and the wine was aged for another 12 months with occasional lees stirring. Around two-thirds went through malolactic conversion. 13.5% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. Score: around 9.
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of passionfruit and orange peel. In the mouth, bright passionfruit and gooseberry flavors mix with green apple and a faint saline brightness. Excellent acidity and lovely purity. 12.7% alcohol. 3.1 g/l residual sugar. Closed with a scerwcap. Vegan. Score: around 9.
2025 Rohe Sauvignon Blanc, Blind River, Marlborough, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of green apple, cut grass, and wet pavement. In the mouth, green apple and guava flavors have a lovely stony quality and a faint herbal note that lingers in the finish along with notes of lime pith. Very good acidity. After pressing, the juice was fermented in stainless steel at various temperatures. Aged for three months before bottling. 13% alcohol. 4.6 g/l residual sugar. Closed with a screwcap. Score: between 9 and 9.5.
2025 Rohe Sauvignon Blanc, Rapaura, Marlborough, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of cut grass, kiwifruit, and lime zest. In the mouth, zippy lime and green guava flavors have a salinity to them and a hint of a grassy herbal note that creeps into the finish with a touch of honeydew melon. After pressing, the juice was fermented in stainless steel at various temperatures. Aged for three months before bottling. 13% alcohol. 4.1 g/l residual sugar. 13% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. Score: between 9 and 9.5.
2025 TAPI Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of salty green apple and passionfruit. In the mouth, bright passionfruit flavors mix with wet pavement and a lovely lemon pith note. Very good acidity and a silky texture round out the aromatic package. The machine-picked and pressed into stainless steel for fermentation, with 10% of the wine fermented in old oak barrels. Aged on its lees for 4 months before bottling. 13% alcohol. 3.5 g/l residual sugar. Closed with a screwcap. Vegan. Score: between 8.5 and 9.
2024 Te Pā “Oke” Sauvignon Blanc, Lower Wairau, Wairau, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of toasted oak, candied lemon peel, and lime leaf. In the mouth, bright lemon peel and pith mix with a touch of vanilla and roasted nuts, as a silky texture lingers on the palate with a hint of salinity. Hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed into 320L cigares for fermentation with ambient and non-Saccharomyces yeasts. Left unsulphured on gross lees over the winter, then racked to neutral barrels for another 6 months of aging. 13.5% alcohol. 2 g/l residual sugar. Closed with a screwcap. Score: around 9.
2024 Nautilus “The Paper Nautilus” Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of honeysuckle, candied lemon peel, and white flowers. In the mouth, faintly sweet flavors of lemon peel, lime pith, and pink grapefruit have a nice filigreed acidity. There’s a sweet lemon cucumber note that lingers in the finish. Hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed, then settled before racking into a 13-year-old 5000L French oak cuve for fermentation. Inoculated with a non-Saccharomyces yeast for a 30-day fermentation. Then matured on lees for another 8 months before bottling. 13.5% alcohol. 3.4 g/l residual sugar. Closed with a screwcap. Vegan. Score: between 8.5 and 9.
2025 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Near colorless in the glass, this wine smells of blackcurrant leaf, green apples, and a hint of that classic feline aroma. In the mouth, crisp green guava, green apple, lemon pith, and lime leaf. Very good acidity and a faint grassy salinity round out the package. Machine-harvested and then pressed. Juice settled and then fermented in stainless steel. Aged on light lees in tank for 2 months before bottling. Sterile filtered. 13% alcohol. 1.4 g/l residual sugar. Closed with a screwcap. NZWG-certified sustainable. Vegan. Score: between 8.5 and 9.
For our November we are returning to Hawkes Bay and trying some wines not previously tasted by us. We’ve described the evening as a Summer Festive Tasting as we are looking to taste some bubbles, compare two Rosés, as well as looking at two great reds that you might want to enjoy at a summer BBQ. We are finishing with a sticky that we know will appeal to many of our members.
That said, there is also plenty of quality in this tasting as it includes two wines from the Jewelstone range, Mission’s premier range, as well as two of their reserve wines. And the other good news is these wines have been heavily subsidised which is why the door price is so attractive.
Here’s what’s on our tasting list for the evening, in no particular order at this time.
Mission Fete Brut Cuvee
Stables Rosé
Jewelstone Rosé [noting the 2024 has recently been released and is now called Blanc De Noir]
Jewelstone Chardonnay
Mission Reserve Syrah
Mission Reserve Malbec
Mission Estate Late Harvest Riesling
And finishing our last formal tasting for the year, there will be a Christmas morsel to go with the last wine. What a great way to finish!
This is going to be a fun evening, and we look forward to seeing you all there.
34 members and one guest attended the evening; tastings and sales were good.
Our presenter for the evening was Brent Linn from Wairiki, and as well as giving a brilliant talk about the terroir of the region and how the wines were different, Brent gave a personalised view of the owner of Petane and his families’ losses from Cyclone Gabrielle where they lost everything. Phil Barber lost his house, vineyard, restaurant, and a neighbour’s brewery; his brother also lost his property. The good news is that they didn’t lose family; all were safely rescued.
Phil Barber continues to make wine, but now the grapes are from neighbours, and the latest batch he is working with is from Gisborne. His wines are worth seeking out.
The different labels certainly made for an interesting evening, and a reminder of the wines we tasted during the evening are:
What a brilliant evening! Organised by Wayne and hosted by Michelle Fraser from Clearview, a wine judge in her own right, plus with an extensive knowledge of viticulture and wine making.
Due to illness and holidays, we had only 27 attend the evening, but book your diaries for next year, as this may be repeated with next year’s Gold Medal Winners!
Michelle filled the evening with knowledgeable tips about the different growing regimes, different classes of grapes, the different way grapes are treated/processed, i.e. in stainless steel or oak barrels, skins in or out; plus her sayings that kept us laughing:
ABC – Anything But Chardonnay
Pinot Gris – Puma wine, younger girls juice
Chardonnay – Cougar wine, older women’s juice
Gewurztraminer – how to says this: Girls Get Meaner
She gave us updates on what some of the bigger personalities in the Hawkes Bay area are now doing, with Gordon Russell now in retirement, until he decides what his next project will be. However, his daughters are now up and running through their new brand Three Fates.
This was an evening that was full of surprises, and to those of you who couldn’t make it, the below wines that we tasted are available from New World, The Good Wine Company, and other NZ locations.
Lindauer Special Reserve Rose NV -Gold Trophy from a female wine maker, Jan DeWitt.
2022 Leefield Station Gewurztraminer -Double Gold Trophy for Champion Gertz this is owned by the same family who own NED wines.
2022 Brancott Estate Letter Series O Chardonnay – Double Gold Trophy for Champion Chardonnay + Champion Wine of the Show again a female wine maker, Laura Kate Morgan
2021 Daisy Rock Reserve Pinot Noir – Gold Medal
2021 Esk Valley Artisanal Hawkes Bay Malbec Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon – Gold Medal sadly Esk Valley is now more, so snap up this one if you like Bordeaux style wines.
Hosted by Michelle Fraser, Clearview Sales Manager and occasional Wine Judge
Wednesday 10th April, 8 pm Start
Door Price: Members $14 / Guests $18
Please remember your tasting glasses
Immediately after the Gold Medal Winners from the New Zealand International Wine Show were announced last October, your club set out to acquire 3 bottles of 7 gold medal wines for us to taste
this month. April was chosen to do this as that is a time of the year when the wine industry is busy with harvest and thus many wineries are unavailable to present to us.
The beauty of doing this immediately that the announcements were made were two-fold. It meant that the wines were still available and more importantly it also gave us an opportunity to secure 5 that were trophy wines, one of which was also the overall Champion Wine of the Show.
And to help us present these wonderful wines to you all, we have invited Clearview Sales Manager, Michelle Fraser back to help us. You may recall that last year she mentioned that she has been a wine judge but she also comes with an extensive knowledge of viticulture and wine making, so is well placed to provide background and her take on each of our wines that we will be tasting.
The wines we will be tasting are:
Lindauer Special Reserve Rose NV – Gold & Trophy for Champion NZ Sparkling Wine
2022 Leefield Station Gewurztraminer -Double Gold & Trophy for Champion Gewurztraminer
2022 Brancott Estate Letter Series O Chardonnay – Double Gold, Trophy for Champion Chardonnay plus Champion Wine of the Show
2021 Daisy Rock Reserve Pinot Noir – Gold Medal
2021 Esk Valley Artisanal Hawkes Bay Malbec Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon – Gold Medal
2021 Trinity Hill Hawkes Bay Syrah – Double Gold, Trophy for Champion Syrah, Trophy for Champion Syrah & Predominant Blends & Trophy for Champion Commercial Red Wine
Kevin presented to us, with his views on the Marlborough history of wine growing, supplying and the present, as well as his predictions for the future of the area. All very informative and well received, leading to more than a bit of discussion by the members present. An intriguing evening of information and wine tasting.
A reminder of the tastings we had during the evening:
Riverby Rosé 2023 – Welcome wine – gold medal winner at NZ International Wine Show
Cicada Gewurztraminer 2023 – gold medal winner at NZ International Wine Show
Riverby Reserve Chardonnay 2022
Riverby Sauvignon Blanc 2023 – gold medal winner at NZ International Wine Show
Riverby Gruner Veltliner 2022
Riverby OVB 2021
Riverby Reserve Pinot Noir 2020
Riverby Noble Riesling 2019 – multiple award winner.
As well as the above, we were offered a small tasting of two of Riverby’s Rieslings:
Sal’s Block Riesling 2023 – this was a dri-ish tipple with 20gm of sugar
Eliza Riesling 2023 [blend of Riesling and sweet grapes] with 40gm of sugar
Both well received, depending on how sweet you like your wines. Kevin mentioned that most of his Rieslings go to the Scandinavian countries in Europe.
This tasting was clearly enjoyed, as evidenced by the 141 bottles ordered from Kevin. Well done.
Wednesday 14th February 8 pm start Door Price: Members $10 / Guests $14
We have lined up for your February Club Monthly meeting an evening with Kevin Courtney of Riverby Estate from Blenheim.
Riverby are a boutique, family owned and run wine producer in Marlborough’s Jackson Road heartland. All grapes are grown on the estate vineyard by descendants of the Matthews family, who have been farming the property for over 100 years. The Matthews farm was called Riverby and the original homestead, depicted on the Sauvignon Blanc back label, is still in use.
On their approximately 70ha vineyard they have three different soil types that allow the family to grow a variety of grapes, and their range of award-winning wines come from individual parcels on that single vineyard. Although not all their wines are made every year, as this depends on the quality of grapes for vintage.
The Riverby name originated from the Opawa River and its tributaries, which meandered through the property. This river was diverted in the 1930s to stop Blenheim from flooding, creating what was eventually to become ideal grape growing land. The rainbow trout on the Riverby label is symbolic of the fish that used to swim where grapes are now grown.
Old Vines Reserve Chardonnay 2020 – Silver Medal NZIWS 2022
They are proud to practice sustainable grape-growing techniques throughout the whole grape-growing and winemaking cycle and are also pleased to be eligible to be members of Appellation Wine Marlborough (AWM) because of their vineyard practices and restricted yields.
In a throw-back to past glories, sheep are used extensively throughout the vineyard to control weeds and grasses.
Wines for the evening:
Riverby Rose’ 2023 – Welcome wine – gold medal winner at NZ International Wine Show
Cicada Gewurztraminer 2023 – gold medal winner at NZ International Wine Show
Riverby Reserve Chardonnay 2022
Riverby Sauvignon Blanc 2023 – gold medal winner at NZ International Wine Show
Riverby Gruner Veltliner 2022
Riverby OVB 2021
Riverby Reserve Pinot Noir 2020
Riverby Noble Riesling 2019 – multiple award winner
The evening was well attended, and our presenter was Tim Turvey, winemaker, vineyard owner and the person who had returned tanned from Australia the day before after planting a pineapple plantation.
Tim regaled us with the history of how and why he set up the vineyard, built the house, established a native tree nursery and the expansions through to other regions of New Zealand for the different grapes he wanted to be able to use. He has 28 grape varieties they currently work with, plus a 100-year-old Olive tree that the original property owner, Vidals, planted.
He told us how the ‘White Caps’ range got its name, simply by white caps being the only colour available at the time for the new wines.
Our special treat was the extra tasting of their 2022 Reserve Chardonnay with a big buttery nose and taste from a challenging vintage, so it is in short supply.
The evening was finished with their Sea Red Dessert wine, a nice sweet touch.
A reminder of the wines we tasted during the evening:
Wednesday 13th September, 8 pm Start | Door Price: Members $10 / Guests $14
Clearview Estate has grown and owner-operated since 1986: Tim Turvey & Helma van den Berg.
TIM TURVEY & HELMA van den BERG
Purchased in 1986, the neglected but historic Vidal’s No.2 Vineyard at Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay, was set to become Clearview Estate. Tim Turvey, with business partner Helma van den Berg, took on the challenge of bringing it back to life. Together, they hand-grafted and planted the first vines in the winter of 1988. Clearview Estate Winery Ltd was established for the first red wine vintage in 1989, following experimentation in prior years. Chardonnay began in 1991 with the release of the first Reserve Chardonnay.
Over the next several years, Tim and Helma planted thousands of trees, including avocado, olive, bay, citrus, gums, and melia. And they didn’t stop there. Together, they expanded the vineyard by three acres each year, grafting and planting vines, ramming posts, running wires, training young vines, and, for many years, completing all of the pruning themselves.
Today, the business proudly remains owner-operated. Tim oversees the vineyards and works with chief winemaker Matt Kirby and assistant winemaker Rob Bregmen to create legendary, much-awarded wines. Helma manages the finance, restaurant, gardens and her extraordinary team. Steeped in history, Clearview Estate Winery Cellar Door and Clearview Estate Restaurant have become an iconic and awarded destinations for both locals and visitors from afar.
194 Clifton Road, Te Awanga, Hastings, Hawke’s Bay.
John Loughlin from Askerne Vineyard presented to us last month, and he was very pleasantly surprised to find 45 members and guests attending. We have to go way back to 2010 to find that number exceeded, so thank you, everyone, for supporting us with your presence.
John explained that Askerne now has 32ha to grow the 17 varieties of grapes that he and his wife now cultivate, and whilst Askerne is right beside the Tukituki River, they were spared the full force of Cyclone Gabrielle. It could easily have been much worse, as the water rose to 30cm below the top of their stop bank!
Their cellar door is now open 24/7, and John said please visit if you are up in Hawkes Bay for some tastings, He went on to explain that whilst we weren’t tasting these on the night, he felt their Pinot Gris was looking really smart, and their Pinot Noir really good too.
The wines tasted on the night were:
2022 Sérieux Rosé – the welcome wine
2020 Semillon
2022 Reserve Chardonnay
2021 Gewurztraminer
Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc
2021 Cabernet Franc
2019 Late Harvest Semillon
And it was pleasing to note that the quality of these wines was reflected in the excellent number of wines orders received on the night.
So, thanks again to everyone for your support and a special thanks for John for his well delivered tasting presentation.
Established in 1989, Clearview Estate Winery, Hawke’s Bay and its iconic ‘red shed’ restaurant enjoys an established, leafy coastal vineyard setting near the historic landscape of Cape Kidnappers.
Sit, under the blue umbrellas or amongst the vines, while you explore the comprehensive seasonal menu from the winery restaurant featuring fresh and creative dishes making innovative use of Hawke’s Bay produce.
Besides grapes, the estate also grows avocados, olives and citrus trees along with a culinary herb garden to supply the restaurant’s kitchen. Enjoy our estate grown, award-winning wines including the iconic Reserve Chardonnay or our Cabernet-Merlot blends – Old Olive Block & Enigma.
More fabulous Hawkes Bay wines to enjoy. You would be silly to miss this one. More detail next month.
Askerne Tasting – Main Event
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